n8
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Post by n8 on Sept 1, 2018 6:32:15 GMT -5
I have run 882s on one of my engines for the last 5 years or so. The engine has ended up running without water every single time it has ran, around ten runs on it now I think. They haven't cracked yet knock on wood. I haven't owned a set of 441s so I cant help you there.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Aug 23, 2018 13:09:28 GMT -5
Thanks!
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n8
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Post by n8 on Aug 22, 2018 13:40:11 GMT -5
Using the front of an ElDorado/Toronado to stub a rwd gm in the future.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Aug 20, 2018 14:20:45 GMT -5
Any one know if the frames on these are a similar width to the rwd gms of the same era?
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n8
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Post by n8 on Aug 13, 2018 14:01:44 GMT -5
What you are describing sounds just like a bent housing.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Aug 1, 2018 15:44:21 GMT -5
How is fluid level?
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n8
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Post by n8 on Jul 30, 2018 13:44:13 GMT -5
I could go either way. I have a thing for box vics, but either choice is fine to me.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Jul 27, 2018 13:47:38 GMT -5
I have had good luck with NGK 4554 on stock motors. Ive ran and still run autolotes for many years. Last year I experimented with a set of AC Delcos. I don't think the brand of spark plug is as important as it being clean and gapped properly. But there are many options on this subject. Me too.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Jul 27, 2018 13:46:32 GMT -5
Thanks guys.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Jul 27, 2018 7:45:25 GMT -5
Weld 4 inches from back of bumper as much as I want, 4 one inch tack welds per bracket. Really not much opportunity to make sure bracket stays affixed to frame.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Jul 26, 2018 8:31:40 GMT -5
1976 Cadillac Fleetwood. Rules state I must maintain factory shocks and mounting location for that vehicle. No protectors, no plates, no bracing. Its been my understanding that Cadillacs need a very strong front bumper and they tend to use them up quickly. That was in the days of light and medium weld cars. Given the above constraints, would you go with a straight but used 76 Chevy bumper, or a loaded Ford LTD bumper that would require a a few guys to carry due to weight from loading? I wish I had a few better options but work has been busy this year, and I have two weeks left to build the car.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Jul 25, 2018 9:49:28 GMT -5
Good bumper. My brother never had the issue with them bending up, but he hardnosed.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Jul 18, 2018 13:19:14 GMT -5
Chaining down/forward the engine, to take pressure off trans, good or bad idea? More stock style build, lower cradle with front plate and no trans brace. My thoughts were to jack up on the tail of the trans an inch or 2 and bolt a chain to the front plate then weld link to side of the frame to take off some of the pressure on the cross member. Im running a rubber mount on trans with just a strap around trans an cross member. factory vic Rubber engine mounts. Am i just asking for trouble pressuring it slightly forward? dont want engine to rock forward when making a hit with the front then trans slapping down is a down side i can see.. Are you breaking transmissions now or something? I have run almost your exact description for years and I haven't had a trans case or tailshaft failure yet. It sounds like you are doing everything right to alleviate the concern, and while I think adding chain to hold engine down is worthwhile, I don't think you will see an appreciable benefit to do what you have described.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Jul 16, 2018 13:11:34 GMT -5
I don't tear mine down until they start making noise or start pushing white smoke through headers. So to answer the question, until they have a problem, I just run them
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n8
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Post by n8 on Jul 7, 2018 5:26:41 GMT -5
I prefer mechanical. I have had trouble in the past with electrical pumps causing carb problems or regulators taking a crap.
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