n8
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,147
|
Post by n8 on May 7, 2019 13:11:53 GMT -5
Do you have a link to the rules? Caddys are kinda pain to learn on, but it's not impossible. You need to tuck the trunk and notch the rear frame. Also the biggest weak link stock is the factory front bumper and brackets. Ditch them and hardnose a decent bumper on and if you can put a 10" homemade bumper bracket on, these things are mean on the front. Putting a SBC in is a pain the first time. Also no rear end is a direct swap. Cut the trunk bracing as well.
|
|
n8
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,147
|
Post by n8 on May 3, 2019 13:16:57 GMT -5
I ran them on two cars with a 1976 Impala front bumper. It held up great on the first one, but the part of the shock that would typically bolt to bumper, that area tore off the shock on the second derby. For the second car, I had cut this bumper with the brackets already welded on off as an assembly from the first car and I welded it on to the next one, so this was derby two on all of the components. Mine could only be welded 4 inches back except for four one inch tack welds anywhere on bumper shock, bracket. I added an extra bolt or two and washers for bracket to frame area. I had zero issues with the bracket ripping, just the shock itself.
|
|
n8
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,147
|
Post by n8 on Apr 20, 2019 7:04:36 GMT -5
How is everyone fixing these? Will they hold up very well if u run them as is? Like really rusty Lots of plate. They don't do too well with the crush box delete option. The only rusty one I ran had no bottom of frame or bottom of crush box between rear most lower control arm and the crush box. I rebuilt it but it bent very oddly compared to the others and I got less out of it.
|
|
n8
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,147
|
Post by n8 on Apr 19, 2019 7:39:20 GMT -5
Someone was telling me that you can use the stock ford springs. The shock is the biggest part. I’m assuming it’s just a longer shock that basically is going to be bottomed out when the control arms are maxed? Anyone got detail on this? That's a lot of weight to support on a 3/4 diameter rod or whatever. You would be better off changing the springs if you are concerned about height. I never changed the spring or shocks when I ran those rules though, just ran stock.
|
|
n8
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,147
|
Post by n8 on Apr 8, 2019 13:59:26 GMT -5
I have plates to build a bolt in cage but never have enough time to build one. I end up welding them in. Last car I ran I ended up sending cage in car to shredder. My question is how is everyone cutting them out without destroying the material? I use torches and sawzall to get mine out. I am careful with the torch. You can usually cut the weld without knicking up the cage piece to bad. Sometimes I use an angle grinder if the access is there.
|
|
n8
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,147
|
Post by n8 on Apr 6, 2019 6:48:29 GMT -5
Hello all I am new to derbying and building my first vic this year. I was wondering if its easier to weld in a cage or bolt in and how much material will I neeed to do this. I found a 20 foot section of 3x3 1/4 in thick tubing will this be enough? Easier to weld a cage in compared to making a bolt in cage, but my bolt in cage goes together much faster then I can weld one in. I can take it out for the next car way faster as well. How much material you need is subject to side bar length, down bars, and if you add gussets, gas tank protector, or a center bar. 20 feet would be enough for the perimeter cages I have built without gas tank protector, down bars, gussets, or center bar.
|
|
n8
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,147
|
Post by n8 on Apr 4, 2019 7:25:19 GMT -5
I have a small block chevy that had a similar amount of play. I assembled it anyways, and it is still running four years later. I am sure there is a downside to having that much end play, but I haven't seen the effect of it yet.
|
|
n8
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,147
|
Post by n8 on Apr 2, 2019 7:34:58 GMT -5
It's been a long time since I did it, but I do not believe you need to swap steering linkages. I don't recall having to swap tie rods either, and I ran the stock lower control arms.
|
|
n8
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,147
|
Post by n8 on Apr 2, 2019 7:32:02 GMT -5
What’s a better front bumper for a bubble vic a 74 Torino or an 80s Ford? Torino but either will be fine on a stock vic, assuming both bumpers are all steel. IF you can't seam weld the bumper, I would run the 80s ford because those are easier to replace.
|
|
n8
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,147
|
Post by n8 on Feb 9, 2019 5:30:34 GMT -5
HEy guys hate to ask a uestion that has probably been asked a lot but I found a 73 2 door caprice with a 400 in it. And I want to do a lil mild work to the 400 without killing the bank.. any advice will help and why do people say the radiator support in a 71-73 is better then 74-76??? Thanks guys we-crash.proboards.com/thread/14476/sbc-build-tips. Joker's post I saved from the old website in the first ten pages is a good start for a budget build.
|
|
n8
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,147
|
Post by n8 on Jan 28, 2019 14:23:41 GMT -5
I haven't had an issue letting an engine for a year or longer between demos
|
|
n8
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,147
|
Post by n8 on Dec 7, 2018 16:18:08 GMT -5
I have heard no vinyl top (but not an absolute indicator), 140 speedometer, grease-able upper control arm bushings, and the stamp are the way to tell. I bought one from Psycho Jimmy with an hd stamp, no grease-able upper control arm bushings, did have a million coolers in front of radiator, no vinyl top, and I don't think the speedometer was 140. This one didn't have the doubled frame control arms forward some people have mentioned, and I didn't look in the humps. I have seen side by side pictures of std and hd frames, and the hd frame is noticeably thicker.
|
|
n8
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,147
|
Post by n8 on Oct 23, 2018 13:59:12 GMT -5
I like the price of nine inch rear ends, both as an assembly, and spool/ gear cost. As far as using the stock axles go, I hate the 28 spline axles. Just not good for demo use, and the fact that all of the ones I ran had two different length axles made it even more of a pain. I broke one or both the two times I ran them.
|
|
n8
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,147
|
Post by n8 on Oct 19, 2018 12:30:59 GMT -5
I mounted one in a 76 88 last year, and I didn't need spacers or anything, just used stock truck mounts. Do you have an over sized crank pulley? In a stock class though, I would remove the sway bar if it caused any kind of interference. Definitely pay attention to steering arm rub on the pan though as cheezwhiz31 mentions. My brother ran my Catalina to finish it off and the steering arm wore a hole in the pan.
|
|
n8
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,147
|
Post by n8 on Sept 11, 2018 13:28:00 GMT -5
A buddy made one. He torched the hole in the rotor big enough. It was a sloppy fit. He didn't have an issue the two times he ran it before he switched to stock class. It's not the way I would do it but worked for him.
|
|