n8
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Post by n8 on Feb 9, 2021 10:04:17 GMT -5
Just asking just to know. Never built a caddy and have no plans to. Why never tilt one? What’s the reasoning behind this? My GUESS is its very common for them to go right behind the a arm at the s curve when they bend, especially if you fix a arms forward with a good bumper brackets, plate, etc. Tilting exacerbates that tendency. Tilting also tends to give you a lower rear bumper, which can be an issue on the rears of caddies given the difficulty some have building the trunk.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Jun 2, 2020 17:05:19 GMT -5
I run my dash bar right above steering column. I don’t like it below column. Side bars angle down from dash bar to seat bar. Seat bar is set a bit lower just because column isn’t in way. My side bars are usually 1/3 of door down from the top.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Apr 4, 2020 9:04:29 GMT -5
If you install the 70s spindle, install the 70s ford control arms too. You get a bit more height Your talking just upper and spindles. That's what alot of guys was doing. Before that was g body a arms with 80s spindles. Now they are switching to a another that gives more height I hear. Lowers too I believe it was. Height is good, but the bigger reason for me 70s ford have better parts availability then the caddy style suspension.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Apr 2, 2020 11:01:16 GMT -5
70’s and 80’s. 70’s are stronger, 80’s give a little more height do both sets have to be reamed out for stock ball joints? If you install the 70s spindle, install the 70s ford control arms too. You get a bit more height
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n8
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Post by n8 on Feb 29, 2020 0:42:32 GMT -5
I prefer 1/8 or a bit less. Lately it's whatever thin junk I have laying around but buying the door strapping material from vendors does make it go quick when I buy it.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Dec 28, 2019 7:55:43 GMT -5
I've heard about shortening the rear bumper brackets, just never done it myself. I was planning on cuttinf the bracket right where the long hole is on the bottom of the frame. My only concern is, do you run into any issues with the frame wanting to rip off if I put my notch in that section of frame over the long hole in the bottom? I have to check, but I think my notch was about here on my fleetwood and the frame eventually tore and was dragging on the ground behind me. I had three on it before I went into the feature. If the notch wasn't over that hole you are talking about though, it was closer to humps and would have been about the same depth as if you notched down the side of the frame where that hole was.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Dec 3, 2019 13:51:58 GMT -5
I was under the impression the bevel is to prevent lug nuts from loosening. I have never had an issue with studs breaking without it there.
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n8
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Headers
Oct 24, 2019 14:53:29 GMT -5
Post by n8 on Oct 24, 2019 14:53:29 GMT -5
I have dec 4 in a row turn outs, dec 4 in a row, hss 4 into 1, and I built a set once that were 4 in a row. I haven't noticed any difference in function. I prefer any variation of 4 in a row because it is easier for me to isolate any issues I may be having.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Aug 7, 2019 7:21:43 GMT -5
I ran it full, it wasnt a big deal to leave it.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Jul 16, 2019 14:00:00 GMT -5
What is everyone’s ideal engine and engine power? I know for a lot of the old school drivers and builders, power is not important, I myself feel that same way. With that being said, I want something capable of moving my cars out of the way of the competition. Obviously gears and type of transmission come into play as well. I see big HP engines getting hot way to often due to people running them very hard. I am curious to what everyone has to say. I have never run anything with more power then a 1976 Impala with a 350 would have made. I haven't ever wished for more either. If you want to push cars, there is no substitute for gearing in my opinion. When I ran a class that allowed gears, I ran in the mid 5 range, friends of mine ran 6.0-6.5 ish gear ratios
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n8
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Post by n8 on Jul 10, 2019 7:20:47 GMT -5
Can you cold bend these and if so where do you bend them? Yes. I bend them at the crush box.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Jun 14, 2019 13:18:23 GMT -5
Would Comp XE268H be to much for a 355 with 6in rods, flat top pistons and 186 double hump heads 64cc? Or would Comp 268H be a better fit? I run it in an engine with less work done then you described and it hasn't been an issue. The heads on mine are 72ccs. Pretty much a stock 350 with that cam in my case.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Jun 6, 2019 13:07:13 GMT -5
What's everyone's technique on weld in centers. How do you keep them centered in wheel? Is there a easy way or just burn an measure? On rims with a bolt pattern that is the same as one pattern on the multi pattern centers I am welding in, I bolt the center to the rear of the wheel with 9/16 bolts, and then spin it on a wheel balancer to check for straightness, and then weld. I have gotten all of mine perfect this way.
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n8
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Post by n8 on May 31, 2019 7:45:18 GMT -5
I think in that case, I would prefer hardnosing and the bracket over using the shocks and bracket, as long as I could the front bumper height I needed.
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n8
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Post by n8 on May 30, 2019 8:00:49 GMT -5
I never had an issue with the Pontiac brackets. Front or rear olds brackets? the 74-76 style? I have hardnosed and run 76 olds front brackets/shocks on 76 gm frames. Hardnosing seems to put more pressure on the holes in the frame between core support and engine crossmember. Bumper seems to be much more secure though. Brackets, and specifically the shocks in those brackets, I have had many many problems trying to get decent welds on them to retain the bumper. Maybe it's just me though. They do give you some bumper height and in my case, they seem to promote the car bending at the firewall. I had no problem with my core support after hardnosing but it is close. Would you be allowed to weld bracket over the hole in the frame if you didn't hardnose the bumper?
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