|
Post by grimmlin16 on Apr 29, 2016 12:59:03 GMT -5
They are located just to the left and right of the dizzy. The left side"passenger" should be your supply line. Gotcha. Is it safe to hook rubber hose to them for my fuel lines? I'll buy the high pressure rubber fuel line. Thats whats i have done never had an issue. Id add a inline filter or use old one and run through pvc to or just out the firewall. "Incase of a rupture but i have never seen that happen or heard of that before. I always protect my lines in my car though
|
|
|
Post by pantera77 on Apr 29, 2016 13:52:01 GMT -5
Now my question is, where on the motor do I run the new lines from my tank to? At first I was thinking it was here Those are actually coolant lines for the EGR cooler, you'll want to hook them back up or block them off at the intake and heater core pipe. Fuel line hook ups are on the fuel rail. Supply is on drivers side, return on passenger. IIRC both lines are 5/16, but the supply steps up to 3/8 at the rail. Use high pressure line and fuel line clamps, not the crappy worm ones.
|
|
|
Post by Dan-Ervine-383 on Apr 29, 2016 15:14:14 GMT -5
Alright, this is a great help. Much appreciated guys. So this is on the drivers side and it will be my supply side correct..? Also I cut off a piece of these lines on each side. Would these be sufficient to hook my rubber line too? I'm gonna flare the ends of them and use some paint to help seal them when I put the rubber hose on. And a final question, I'm gonna run metal fuel line as far as I can. Would you use steel brake line or copper line? I have both...
|
|
|
Post by pantera77 on Apr 29, 2016 19:37:09 GMT -5
Wait a second, I totally beefed it. Instead of flipping the picture I mirrored it. I was wondering why the hell the fuel pressure regulator was on the wrong side.... Anyways, sitting in the drivers seat, return on drivers side, supply on passenger side. Standing in front of the engine supply on the left, return on the right. The pic you posted is the return. Yep, that piece you cut off will work fine. I put a bubble flare on the end and then clamp it down, have never had a problem even on my drivers. Also, lots of Ford with that quick disconnect have a barbed fitting with a plastic line on it, you can cut the plastic line off and end up with a quick disconnect with a really nice barbed fitting to attach the fuel line too. This is the picture that I should have posted, sorry for the confusion...
|
|
|
Post by Dan-Ervine-383 on Apr 29, 2016 23:22:55 GMT -5
Thanks so much man. You saved me a big headache and that's worth it's weight in gold to me.
|
|
|
Post by wreckage on Apr 30, 2016 19:33:33 GMT -5
Alright, this is a great help. Much appreciated guys. So this is on the drivers side and it will be my supply side correct..? Also I cut off a piece of these lines on each side. Would these be sufficient to hook my rubber line too? I'm gonna flare the ends of them and use some paint to help seal them when I put the rubber hose on. And a final question, I'm gonna run metal fuel line as far as I can. Would you use steel brake line or copper line? I have both... I use coated brake line it's always worked good for me. Just make sure you use the right size line.
|
|
|
Post by grimmlin16 on May 4, 2016 19:34:21 GMT -5
Holy shiz. This is my first time really trying to figure the wiring out instead of lazily protect it best i can, and boy is this a headache. Wish these things were more simple. Just a little rant not really looking for help. I want to try to figure it out on my own. On a side note...make sure all vacuum lines are sealed and put to where they're supposed to go or else the engine run really rough which I thought was my fuel problem but it ended up being a vacuum problem
|
|
|
Post by Dan-Ervine-383 on May 12, 2016 14:03:15 GMT -5
My pump won't come on unless the tank is touching bare metal in the car. Is there a ground wire in the harness I need to hook up?? There is another plug that went on the tank identical to the one that powers the pump. Does it need to be hooked to something??
|
|
|
Post by justforfun1973 on May 12, 2016 15:05:01 GMT -5
My pump won't come on unless the tank is touching bare metal in the car. Is there a ground wire in the harness I need to hook up?? There is another plug that went on the tank identical to the one that powers the pump. Does it need to be hooked to something?? Did you hard wire it? If not there's a ground that's bolted in left side of trunk on one of the braces. That needs grounded.
|
|
ron17t
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,180
|
Post by ron17t on May 12, 2016 22:50:43 GMT -5
Ground the fuel pump to the battery- I never rely on body grounds.
|
|
|
Post by buckoff on Jun 2, 2016 12:16:38 GMT -5
This was the first car I ever really tried to build and it did exceedingly well...and could have done even better if it wasn't the first time I had ever driven in a derby. Notice the shifter I make out of the windshield wiper linkage...
|
|
|
Post by buckoff on Jun 2, 2016 12:20:54 GMT -5
89 lincoln. My first time messing with any type of EFI. I'm shooting for this look. No dash, column clean, and ECM in drivers compartment. Besides ECM and harness. What other essentials should be saved. Also are you guys running ignition off of column or installing switches? Thanks for any help. Looking froward to learning fords.
|
|
ron17t
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,180
|
Post by ron17t on Jun 3, 2016 6:20:25 GMT -5
You know what that look gets ya if you're not really familiar with wiring? A car that doesn't run. If you really want to learn these cars start with moving the underhood wiring up to the firewall. Lots of guys want to rip out the dash, but its only worth it it your building a 4 point cage. Almost every car that I post on here has the stock dash still in it. Many have cages with 45 degree angle door bars. I personally feel that removing dashboards is a waste of time in everything but very modified builds.
|
|
|
Post by buckoff on Jun 3, 2016 7:14:57 GMT -5
Yeah I read some of that on previous pages, and like you stated, "a car that doesn't run" is what I'm worried about. I'm wanting dash out for dash bar/ DP configuration. I'm shooting for that clean look, I figure worse case scenario is I have to carb it, if I mess something up too bad. Just wanting to give EFI a chance. Thanks for the input. Any and all is always appreciated.
|
|
|
Post by jugulator on Jun 3, 2016 10:45:10 GMT -5
5.0 EFI tips,,
on an efi car I use the factory ignition switch,,,, but add a back up starter button,,,
on your AOD trans,, did you leave the factory throttle valve cable,,,, if so ,, its ok,, if you took it off...
you have to lock the lever between 3/4 and full..
on ford EFIs with stacks,, you need long plug wires to run down and under the headers,,
put some aluminum foil between the ignition module and the thermostat housing,,,, shield the heat from it,,
fold it up and wedge in in,,
I see but connectors in the photo.... i don't trust them,, they should be soldered...
cut a soda can in half,,, put it over the power steering cap,, hose clamp it.
zip tie,, the MAP sensor on the engine,, not the fire wall,,
|
|