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Post by redneckracing12 on Dec 27, 2014 23:03:52 GMT -5
I never ran a alt and never had my car shut off because of a dead battery, I also don't have a fancy expensive battery either just a interstate megatron.
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Post by justforfun1973 on Dec 28, 2014 0:19:20 GMT -5
Was waiting to go on the truck with car running right before the derby and it lost power, dead battery. (That I had just fully charged right before the derby) Thought it was the electric fan I wired up draining the battery. Unhooked the fan and put in a new battery and about 5 minutes into the derby the battery died again. Haven't gotten an alternator tester yet, but I'm gonna assume that's what it is. Just wanted to hear some outside ideas and suggestions. What year vic? My guess is you have a short somewhere. Positive wire in contact with another wire or peice of metal. IMO!That car should run a lot longer than that without alternator.
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Post by redneckracing12 on Dec 28, 2014 14:39:56 GMT -5
I'm assuming that it's still fuel injected?
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Post by klicky96 on Dec 28, 2014 15:18:48 GMT -5
This post is useless without proper info! Factor motor? Efi? Are you running a fan? Etc... if you are still running the factory fuel injected motor, yeah, five minutes, especially since you are trying to run a fan and fuel pump. Mount a chevy one-wore alternator on it, good to go.
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Post by klicky96 on Dec 28, 2014 18:02:04 GMT -5
Your still pulling a lot of power. I bet that battery doesnt have a high reserve capacity.
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Post by Comet Cyclone on Dec 28, 2014 19:24:08 GMT -5
need a multimeter or something before you start making any big decisions or guessing parts...
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Post by klicky96 on Dec 28, 2014 19:34:47 GMT -5
Get a multineter, fire it up, and check voltage at alternator. If you are reading around 13.2-14.6, alternator is charging like it should. If not, make sure the regulator is hooked up, if it has one. Did you cut wires? May have cut the reference for the alternator or something simple.
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Post by klicky96 on Dec 28, 2014 19:55:55 GMT -5
Pump, fsn, injectors, engine monitoring system, yeah, it'll drain it pretty quick.
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Post by ajmayhem19 on Dec 28, 2014 20:41:32 GMT -5
Put meter on battery you should read atleast 11.8v --start up the engine and it should go up to 13.1/14v then alt is charging. if not you need to replace alt.With Efi you need max voltage to make it run right.Besides fuel pump and fan you have a cpu, 8 injectors ,throttle & barometric sensors etc.We always run an alt w /Efi or if allowed 2 commercial batteries
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Post by redneckracing12 on Dec 28, 2014 23:33:28 GMT -5
Easiest thing to do would be to throw a gm 1 wire alt on it. You have to modify the stock ford alt bracket just a bit but other than that its a bolt on deal. As for the pulley it's as simple as taking the ford one off and putting it on the chevy alt. I can post a picture tom of the bracket so you get an idea of what you have to do if you decide to go the gm alt route.
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Post by klicky96 on Dec 29, 2014 1:05:27 GMT -5
Redneck is right, best thing to do is a chevy one wire. That way, you have one wire to worry about.
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Post by klicky96 on Dec 29, 2014 12:06:03 GMT -5
Pretty much any older model, like 85 down. Easy to reconize. Two wire plug on side, and the main post. Run the red wire from the plug to the main post, and run a wire from the main post to battery. Good to go.
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Post by crusher71 on Dec 29, 2014 12:45:00 GMT -5
SOUNDS LIKE A CRAP BATTERY.. I HAVE RUN CARS FOR OVER AN HOUR WITH JUST THE BATTERY, AND USING AN ELECTRIC FAN ON THE TRANS COOLER AND AN ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP.....
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Post by redneckracing12 on Dec 30, 2014 0:39:27 GMT -5
Either buy a 350 or just carb the 302? It's just a stock car. What's your guys opinions? Carbed 302 with a good ignition setup is a whole new engine compared to the efi setup. Sorry I didn't get that picture for you today I'll try to get it tom.
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Post by Comet Cyclone on Dec 31, 2014 10:57:08 GMT -5
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