skunk
Heat Winner
BASHMASTERS - Coming soon to an arena near you!
Posts: 849
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Post by skunk on Oct 18, 2013 9:17:38 GMT -5
Cool project. I dropped a 250/6cyl in a buick once but it never saw the track. Ran it around the field a bunch and even with stock gears it had plenty of power. Took an offer for the car and sold it. Keep us posted.
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Post by 513monster on Oct 18, 2013 9:20:34 GMT -5
Where are you gonna break it in at?
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Post by Johnny L on Oct 18, 2013 11:26:03 GMT -5
Well the car itself is about 80% done (just waiting on some rule finalization for 2014 from local promoters) and I'm sure I'll be jonesing to run way before county fair season next year. That being said I really would like to run Metal Mayhem because it's early in the season and it's pretty close to my house, plus I want to ruin a "high dollar" builders day ; ) If not I'll hit the county fair circuit that starts in late July.
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dm440c
Feature Winner
derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
Posts: 2,824
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Post by dm440c on Oct 18, 2013 12:03:58 GMT -5
just fired up a slanty last night... gonna run it a week from this Sunday at the state fair
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Post by everett24 on Oct 30, 2013 11:58:59 GMT -5
Do you think one of these engines in an 79-80 Cordoba would do well in a chain no weld race? I know where one is reasonably priced, but skipped it because of the slant 6.
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Post by Johnny L on Oct 30, 2013 17:07:17 GMT -5
If it had a factory slant 6 it would be an 1980, 79 was still the old body style. It's no different than a Diplomat as far as the chassis goes, just the body is different. Great no weld car IMO.
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Post by allen24 on Dec 2, 2013 11:41:35 GMT -5
Yes it's an 80 model. The front bumper isn't much to use for derby. I found a 77 Monaco that would be stronger for a chain race.
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Post by Johnny L on Dec 3, 2013 20:37:04 GMT -5
Well after a few weeks of testing and tuning, I've discovered a couple of toasted exhaust valves in the engine of the video due to what I believe to be improper valve clearances (I had to adjust them quite a bit to get back to factory specs)and a bad head gasket but luckily I traded some useless parts for a great running '69 Slant Six (and a hard to find slant 6 727 trans) this past weekend so a head swap is underway. I pulled the head off the new engine and the everything looks a-ok except for what's left of the valve stem seals. Ordered up a set of intake and exhaust seals along with a head gasket and spark plug tube seals (gotta love Rock Auto, $22 w/shipping for everything) and have had the head soaking in a vat of degreaser for the past couple of days. Lately I've been doing alot of playing around with total timing and have learned that slants make the most power with 28-30 degrees of total mechanical advance and 8-12 degrees of initial advance. I took the distributor apart and found that it had a 15R governor installed (which translates to 30 degrees of centrifugal advance and the base timing set to 0 which corresponds with my shop manual for 1969). I proceeded to weld up and file the slots in the governor so that it would only allow about 18 degrees of centrifugal advance and now I can set my base timing to 10 degrees advanced or so which will get me in that 28-30 degree range. I then swapped out the heavy advance spring with the light one from another distributor. This should get my total mechanical advance to fully kick in between 1500-2000 rpm's which is ideal IMO for a derby/race WOT application. This should increase engine power significantly.
I'm just trying to squeeze every last drop of power out of this thing and spend as little as possible. These are as old-school as old-school gets and there's a ton of info out there for people willing to do some digging. I'll put up some new video this weekend when I put everything back together.
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Post by lahnen on Dec 5, 2013 21:48:07 GMT -5
cool build. im a big fan of outside of the box ideas. hell I got a slant 6 that powers my woodsplitter
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Post by Johnny L on Feb 13, 2014 19:04:04 GMT -5
Been a while since I've updated this post. Finally put everything back together this past weekend and fired it up last night for the first time. Started right up and idles perfect. Let her get warm, did a final adjustment on the valves, set the timing to 10 degrees advanced, and adjusted the mixture screws using a vacuum gauge. Starts and idles great but when you really punch the throttle either in park or in gear under load it spits, sputters, and backfires just a bit through the carb. For comparisons sake, I swapped the modified dist with a good stock dist I had on the shelf and it's exactly the same. I checked the compression, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points gap, dwell and they all check out fine. That leads me to believe the re-man Carter BBD is the culprit. Seems like one of the accelerator pump squirters shoots a nice steady stream every time I open the throttle, but the other side's squirter seems to be spitting instead of a strong stream. I've heard nothing but bad things about re-man carbs but rolled the dice and picked one up anyways. Apparently I should've listened lol. I picked up a carb kit and am going to rebuild another old BBD I have on the shelf and swap out the re-man junk. Fingers crossed this is the culprit. Sound like I'm on the right path here?
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shake
Heat Winner
Posts: 896
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Post by shake on Feb 14, 2014 11:38:03 GMT -5
Why not just rebuild the carter properly yourself ? It should be clean at least already And yea them slants will run forever, pulled the one out of our forklift years back. Sent it to the machine shop, It woulda been 60 over to true the cylinders..but somehow it still ran Poorly , but it was alive. They got a different block to rebuild
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Post by Johnny L on Feb 14, 2014 18:15:36 GMT -5
^ yep that's exactly what I've decided to do!
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Post by Johnny L on Feb 15, 2014 14:14:31 GMT -5
Well just for sh!ts n giggles, I installed an old BBD carb I had laying around and fired it up. It runs light years better than it did with the re-man carb so looks like I will definitely be rebuilding the re-man and installing it this weekend. Looks like the T-Bird will fly after all at Metal Mayhem 2014!!!
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Post by REG 4D on Feb 15, 2014 23:12:32 GMT -5
You should totally run Mayhem... Cool project bud, hope it works out good for you.
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Post by Johnny L on Feb 16, 2014 15:00:05 GMT -5
Rebuilt the carb this morning and put the re-curved distributor back in. It seems to run and start best at about 15 degrees advanced. The carb is now performing as it should as well. I'm super happy with my experiment, I have about $300 in this setup (including purchasing the engine/trans) and I know I have a dead nuts reliable set-up. I'll post more videos in the upcoming months, once it thaws out around here I'm going to have a full test and tune day in a field somewhere and I'll be sure to update this thread. Thanks for reading!
Cheers!
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