Slant 6 project

[Johnny L]

I have a built 318 full roller engine and was in the process of building a 383 big block when I started to get paranoid about all the $ invested in an inferior for derby use block design (meaning the inferior "ear" mounts that can easily destroy a block). That got me thinking...there's just no way I'm going to run a small block Chevy ever and I'm really not interested in Ford power. What's the next best thing? The virtually indestructible 225 Slant 6. Regular threaded block mounts similar to a bowtie but Mopar power. I know, I know they don't make "enough" power in stock form according to the enemy but I beg to differ. That being said I pieced together this 225 using a '69 block and head, '77 "super six" intake, a rebuilt 2bbl Carter BBD, new double roller timing chain/gears, pulleys from a '77 225 and a new Mopar points distributor with an internally resisted coil from a early 60's era Ford truck. I adjusted the valves to the '69 225 truck engine specs and am running full synthetic diesel engine oil. This engine hasn't been fired since '78 (according to the guy I got it from) and within a few cranks it fired right up. After timing it to start hot and tuning the carb with a vacuum gauge I can't believe the throttle response and power from this engine. Revs every bit as good as any small block I've run and has all the get up and go I could ask for. Now don't get me wrong, I haven't yet put it to the test in the arena but I have all the faith in the world I can hang with any big $ engine as far as handling heat and not shutting down under extreme circumstances. It runs hot, drips oil like no other, and smokes like an Opium den but I couldn't be more satisfied with my $100 investment.
First test will be in the '66 T-Bird I mounted it in with some 5.13's behind it sometime early next season. I plan on picking up a few more of these engines and doing some head mods, from what I've been reading you can make some real power and not compromise reliability from one of these with a bit of "bench top" head work. I'll keep this post updated with new videos as I take them.

Cheers!

[hammerhead]

leanin tower of power

[wizardofhoi]

Oh you know where I am on this, Awesome man. Slant 6's will run forever!

[aoldfart]

Cool! Some of the old guys around here used them sometimes. I picked up a 57/58 Chrysler for a stock derby. They told me the best thing to do with it, was get a new distributor gear for it. The guy who ran it, had a blast! Engine never died. Car made it to the main.

Steve

[513monster]

sounds pretty good for a 6cyl, thinking about bringing it to OH in may?

[Johnny L]

Oct 2, 2013 21:35:13 GMT -5 aoldfart said:

Cool! Some of the old guys around here used them sometimes. I picked up a 57/58 Chrysler for a stock derby. They told me the best thing to do with it, was get a new distributor gear for it. The guy who ran it, had a blast! Engine never died. Car made it to the main.

Steve

As far as I know, one company used to make steel gears for these distributors up until the early 90's. I've searched high and low for one via the internet and my local Napa guy who can find literally any part and they just don't exist anymore. It seems like it would be a nice piece of insurance but from what I've read and been told they're not necessary, even under the most extreme conditions as long as they're inspected for cracks/wear from old age and replaced with a new replacement nylon gear.

I just want to make a point and say I didn't just throw this engine in a car hoping that what I've heard about them is true. I've done alot of research and reading on these engines so that I now understand just why Ma Mopar did what she did with the design of the 170 and 225 /6 and why it's a superior engine to most any other American made, carbureted internal combustion engine that Detroit ever produced. Powerhouse? No, but h.p. doesn't win trophies. Ability to run strong under any condition does.
What it boils down to is that I'm trying something different to be competitive on a budget. A whole lot of guys run Gard, Gropp, Baldwin, LS, etc. Chevy engines in my area and they're all stellar performers but come at a price that I can't justify spending for an engine in a derby car. I'm trying to think outside of the box and I know I'm on the right track...

[XtremeMopar#307]

This is just badass! Simple as that

[catscratch]

I've got one that I've ran several times and love the damn thing. You have a cool build there and you will be proud when you stomp on more expensive drive trains. Kind of brings you back to the roots of demoing to do something creative and on the cheap. Good luck with it.

[dm440c]

they work good for derby use, the only things I don't like has to do with the packaging-

- the distributor isn't in the best possible place and I haven't figured out a protector design that fits into the F/M/J chassis yet
- the nose of the engine sits very close to the radiator which is already an issue with v8 engines and only gets worse with these
- aside from radiator clearance issue, the front of the engine is also very susceptible to damage when the nose of the car is getting beat up. Had one run that ended when the timing cover took a hit and broke the timing gear inside.
- the intake and exhaust being on the same side of the engine with side-by-side ports is less than ideal. Makes upward exhaust a challenge and I'm not thrilled that the intake mix has to be so close to hot exhaust parts.

the good news- yes they are tougher than hawk guts and don't care all that much about trivial things like water and oil. A v8 mini starter bolts right on.

Last few times I've run one with 5.13 gears and it did OK but I'm considering going deeper on the ratio.

[Black333]

GOTTA LOVE THE (BUZZIN HALF DOZEN)

[XtremeMopar#307]

This has really got me thinking... I got leads on a couple of them but got a couple questions.... Is the carb bolt pattern the same as a 318 so I could put my good Carter on there??? Also I want it to go into a Vic for a team show next year, I run an 8 3/4 in them so would 4.56s be enough to push it around? Or should I go to a 5.13 or deeper? Keep in mind that I also run a 23 inch tire so that would dig it down even more

[wizardofhoi]

I still talk to old school guys who ran in the 70's and early 80's. They would put them in full frame imps and run all night. Old School as you can get right here, I love anything and everything that goes against building "Internet kit cars" :-)

[Johnny L]

Oct 3, 2013 13:38:53 GMT -5 XtremeMopar#307 said:

This has really got me thinking... I got leads on a couple of them but got a couple questions.... Is the carb bolt pattern the same as a 318 so I could put my good Carter on there??? Also I want it to go into a Vic for a team show next year, I run an 8 3/4 in them so would 4.56s be enough to push it around? Or should I go to a 5.13 or deeper? Keep in mind that I also run a 23 inch tire so that would dig it down even more

They only offered a factory 2 bbl intake from 77-81 so you'd have to find one from that era to work with your Carter.
1960 to 1971 225's had the highest factory hp and torque and seem like the best base to build up from. 4.56's with small diameter 14" tires should move a Vic around just fine. I have a 2000 Vic on the chopping block for next year that will be slant six powered too, can't wait to build it.
The only place I could find to make a header was DEC and it requires a half inch flange, not to mention a lot of cutting and grinding to get everything to fit right.
With the right combo of parts you can max out a stock 225 on the cheap.

[XtremeMopar#307]

Thanks... That helps alot... I'm all for cheap and mostly stock... I already looked on Dec for headers... The one I got a for is a 78 I believe so it would already have the right intake, little less power but maybe i could find an old block and just use the 78 for parts... Thanks again

[dozertraxx]

there was a factory 4 barrel intake made by chrysler- the hyper pack try clifford performance they sell a nice aluminum slant 6 four barrel intake .