n8
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Post by n8 on Nov 3, 2011 20:15:48 GMT -5
Well, since he is in school, and I fed you a lot this summer.... ;D
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n8
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Post by n8 on Nov 2, 2011 16:15:50 GMT -5
Wow hope my cousin doesnt see this or else ill end up having to do that much work to ;D Hope you have been working out. ;D
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n8
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Post by n8 on Oct 27, 2011 1:26:45 GMT -5
The answer to your last question is yes, it is theoretically possible, but tilting from the motor side requires cutting welds on the crush box, and a bare frame. Its more work for the same result.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Oct 25, 2011 23:47:14 GMT -5
I have and would go with cold bending at the boxes in this case. I am not allowed to tilt by cutting the flaps, and I have yet to tilt at the crossmember, but it seems that making the frame straighter is a better option.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Oct 13, 2011 21:13:17 GMT -5
which bop's had the universal transmission to fit chevy as well This seems to be hit or miss as far as I can tell
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n8
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Post by n8 on Oct 13, 2011 21:11:10 GMT -5
do you guys do any thing different for the tranny dipstick?.or even run one?.....i ran a caddy last year with a sbc and th400..i took a good hit and the dipstick tube broke, and i lost most of my tranny fluid...im trying to figure a better way so this doesnt happen again Most of the transmission we run have regular dipsticks. A good option though if you are running a 350/400 is a pipe dipstick. Contact bomber or punisher from no respect racing. I have also have seen people shorten their dipsticks and tubes themselves.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Oct 12, 2011 22:45:38 GMT -5
They will go under just have to get some 9 inch ears from AFAB or cutter is his screen name and make a bracket that bolts to factory leaf spring perches. Excellent idea with bolting the bracket for the lower trailing arm to the leaf spring bracket, wish I had thought of that when I built mine.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Oct 6, 2011 10:49:31 GMT -5
I know this doesn't belong in this section but I am guessing this will get a little more traffic. I have a ih 1210. I am looking for interior and exterior parts. Literally the entire interior, and then some body panels and trim. If you happen to have anything, pm me on here and I will get back to you. Can't exactly derby it since it has a 3/8 plate welded to each side of the frame from the firewall to the rear leaf spring.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Sept 13, 2011 20:38:49 GMT -5
When replacing bent axles, do those of you that run C body 8 3/4 rear ends buy used or go aftermarket for the replacements? Any issues with aftermarket axles aside from cost? I managed to bend both axles in my last derby and am looking for replacements. Thanks.
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Post by n8 on Sept 12, 2011 21:51:40 GMT -5
yes it is, dont ask about posi in here LOL, i found that out I was careful not to call the sure grip the other name. I see that dm440c prefers a welded open diff. I was wondering if there is a weak link in the clutch sure grip which would lead him to that preference? If you have ever priced out the cost of a center section with a sure grip in it already, or just the sure grip unit itself, you would have your answer. Any sure grip unit I have found has been above the cost of a spool, or in some cases, more than the cost of better gears and a spool. He may have another reason but my guess is cost and simplicity.
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Post by n8 on Sept 8, 2011 21:52:22 GMT -5
Yep, sorry, didn't notice that prebending was off the table. Cutting off the rear half of the trunk lid as already posted would work too.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Sept 7, 2011 22:48:02 GMT -5
I've even heard some guys claim that doing nothing is the best way.... [/quote] This occured frequently on the old F/M/J thread. Yes to the inside of the trunk, I do not have the experience to tell you how wide and deep to make your notch. It occurs to me that if you can not tuck your trunk, you may want to prebend the trunk lid, or the car in general. Too small of a notch with a regular trunk lid, will not give you the desired effect.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Sept 6, 2011 2:12:00 GMT -5
I notch 6 inches in front of the shackle, the stock rear bumper is angled down from the factory, causing the car to want to bend down and break the shackles; getting rid of the rear bumper removes this tendency. I would say it would not make it stronger to have a rear bumper.
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Post by n8 on Aug 21, 2011 0:52:19 GMT -5
to pitch it down u get some chain a large bottle jack or air jack hook the chain to the frame where it won't move or slide and chain it to the end of the frame and jack up the frame with the chain connected to the jack but if i were u i wouldn't do it if you're unsure of it and if you don't know the benefits of it and u might not even need to do it to win What you seem to be describing is better for fords, which you would tilt at the crushbox. Gm's are different in they don't have a crushbox per se. The way people seem to do it on here is to tilt the frame level at the crossmember. I believe Tank has a picture or two of this done to his Cadillacs. I would think the easiest way to do it on a metric Gm would be to make a very small notch at the bottom of the frame at the crossmember, pull the front of the car down so that the frame in front of the firewall is level, and weld the notch. If rules allow, I would put a small plate on it as well or bolt the crossmember on either side of the notch. As far as the benefits, having the frame level to the ground would slow the cars ability to go up when hitting with the front, meaning you cn make more hits or take more hits to the front and still be able to continue.
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Post by n8 on Aug 18, 2011 20:30:10 GMT -5
Welding the k frame to the frame rails helps quite a bit, as would welding the bumper shocks to the frame rails.
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