n8
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Post by n8 on Dec 2, 2012 2:09:47 GMT -5
Then you need to get very creative with long shocks on the side of the frame.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Dec 2, 2012 2:06:13 GMT -5
When I read through it though, most of it was questions asking if wagons were good cars and how do I make them tough questions.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Dec 2, 2012 2:04:14 GMT -5
This is the stuff I jotted down from the old site: Gm wagons Here's my tip, go to my webpage and read! Seriously the main concern with any 71-73 Chevy or any of the BOP's is to ensure you swap the bumpers for a good 74-76 Chevy. Some of the Olds bumpers are but the Buick and Pontiacs will bend down. You can flip these upside down but your better off witha Chevy if you can find one. The rest of the tips are on my main page, but another big concern with wagons is keeping the sheetmetal together on the assend, you need to bolt, weld, chain and wire to keep it form seperating from the frame. The rear bumper is not connected to the frame so a few big shots and it will shear off and leave your rear frame exposed and then you frame rails will get bent everywhere. Body bolts are crucial in a wagon especially the rear ones of course, one that is often neglected is the ones in front of the rear hump, under the back seat. This is where the wagon will belly hard it not tied together good. Also add the extra on the hump if allowed. There are a ton of more tips so guys give up some of you best ones. The straighter and harder you make the leafs, the tougher the back end will be and the harder it will make it for the humps to kink. If you are allowed to flat strap, weld, or clamp the springs do so excessively.
Chaining the rearend is always a good thing. It solves many problems, no idea how, but it has always worked for me.
As far as preventing the humps from kinking completely, I am not the guy to ask, I'll admit it, I load the frame, but for my rules that is perfectly legal. For a stock derby I actually obey the rules and don't touch the humps. you can make a wagon stronger by turtle backing it (tucking it) or making it a sedaggon, however you want to refer to it, by smashing the roof down level with the fenders. This packs everything tighter and makes it much harder to bend. Most people do not do this right away, they run the wagon straight the way it is a couple times until the rear end is trashed. Then, to allow them to get more life out of the wagon, they pull the back end back out, tuck it, and weld it together, giving them a couple more runs out of the car.
To prevent the wagon from bending at the humps there is a simple remedy if you are allowed to plate. Simply weld a piece of 2 inch angle iron between the humps on the inside behind the tires. The humps can't push together so the force of the hits with the rearend is distributed to the weakest point of the frame (right where the frame makes it bend to go up at the humps. If you plate this area as well, and use the extra body mount on the top of the humps, the wagon will try to belly just in front of the rear tires, so you need to fix that problems also. After that, the wagon should be pretty stout in the back end.
By pulling out the back end when the leafs have already bent pretty baddly, the leafs will be weakend. This means when you derby it, they could break, twist, or fold in weird ways. I would leave the leafs where they are, reinforce the leafs in the position they are in and concentrate on reinforcing the frame. torch two holes in the tailgate....and run 2 chains around the bumper through the tailgate and through the rear floor through the frame, suck it tight Run threaded rod through the rear bumper to the cross brace of the frame.
Be sure to run chains from the rear bumper to the D posts, with a bolt going through the post and not around it. Big washers hereto give the humps strength i like to move the leafs up in the rear shackle area..i cut the main leaf about 8in down and re hook it back up INSIDE the frame with a bolt going thru the frame and thru the leaf eye..no more shackles required...its best to weld the leaf back on to the stack..but some rules dont allow welding on the leafs..so 2 clamps will work also...its a good tip to keep those humps from kinking...no chains required...oh and throw a bolt thru the frame where the leaf hooks up in the front..it keeps the frame from going under the rear seat areas...rear lower arches..is what we call emm..weld the bolt too... Thread mod we could take out about 20 pages if you would delete the how good are the 71-76 roundback questions....
Now my question... Anybody short leafing a round back & if you are what are you getting your spring off of?
I am curious to see if tucking the springs in the frame will keep them from bending at the hump.
short leafing a wagon does keep the top hump from blowing..i did it for yrs when they didnt allow chains... we would cut a section off the main and move it down bolt it thru the frame and weld the leaf...of course it can only be welded down the sided never width ways..itll break the lower leaf....then clamp it..ive even ran it where they didnt allow any welding on the leaf..so wed tuck the 12" section of leaf under the first one..then put 2 clamps on it..
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n8
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Post by n8 on Nov 8, 2012 3:13:04 GMT -5
Im sure its on here somewhere but can someone go thru the procedure on changing out a arms on a bubble ford with 80s style a arms. Along with how necessary it is.? Depends on what style you have. It depends on how much time you want to put into your car, and how competitive you want to be. It was worth the time to me.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Nov 8, 2012 3:11:20 GMT -5
What are some of the manual steering boxes that guys are running and what is being done with the pitman arm to steering linkage? 70's GM power steering boxes, and my Pittman arm bolted to my center link with no modifications.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Oct 22, 2012 18:26:07 GMT -5
98 and 99 are the same as 2000, 2001, 2002.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Oct 1, 2012 12:55:17 GMT -5
I havent bought one yet. How long are they or need to be. If i wait like he said ill be able to get one for 60. But 100 is a good price. No you won't, I turned him down.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Sept 10, 2012 12:23:42 GMT -5
So I got bored last night and decided to start reading this thread and the smb thread to. What's better? There seems to be more sbm at a reasonable price to buy. But the bbm there is only like 5 in my surrounding area on craigslist, I've searched up to 150 miles, at a decent price...under $500. I'm wondering bc I'm thinking about trying to build up a motor and after reading this thread who wants to build a sbc lol ;D You should go with a sbm, because I know a guy who has one already , and then you have money for a trans, headers, etc. for a team show. ;D
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n8
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Post by n8 on Sept 7, 2012 12:52:22 GMT -5
If I understand this correctly, when ordering a pinion brake, it comes with a one piece pinion yoke? If this is true, is it the GM CV bolt pattern? Thanks for your time. Yes that is correct. Winslow I am assuming you will not be at Fall Brawl this year, correct?
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n8
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Post by n8 on Sept 1, 2012 15:43:58 GMT -5
If I understand this correctly, when ordering a pinion brake, it comes with a one piece pinion yoke? If this is true, is it the GM CV bolt pattern? Thanks for your time.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Aug 27, 2012 22:38:40 GMT -5
Quick question.I want to put an 80's box style steering column in a bubble car specifically an 89 into a 93 car.Is it a direct bolt in or is there some fabbing needed to be done? To answer my own question for future reference.Not it's not a direct swap.Though you can swap out the brackets that hold them.master cylinder booster bolt pattern is the same.You need to weld/bolt the top bracket to the firewall though. One bolt will line up, at least as far as the top two bolts go.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Aug 23, 2012 12:56:43 GMT -5
Ok, technically it is correct that it is here, since it is a GM 77+ wagon, but it makes little sense for it to be here, since every other picture is of a 77 and newer full size wagon. The 73-77 midsize picture thread does not say sedan only, so wagons could be posted there.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Jul 30, 2012 16:39:03 GMT -5
What were you running against? I take it you lost a bumper and you didn't cut that off before you posted pictures?
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n8
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Post by n8 on Jul 25, 2012 14:14:01 GMT -5
th350 and a 700r4 do they have the same output shafts? I'd like to be able use my yoke from a 700r4 on 350. We used the 700r4 yoke in my brothers turbo 350, worked for us.
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Post by n8 on Jul 4, 2012 22:41:13 GMT -5
What kind of silicone? I spent a half hour walking around the hardware store looking for something I could use for this. I use gasket sealer... the same stuff I use when i put my third member back in my rearend....... Thanks
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