IMP
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Post by IMP on Aug 8, 2011 9:59:09 GMT -5
post all of your tips/tricks/questions/info on 1976-1989 F/M/J body cars here.....
will be adding all the diff type of cars here so help me out....
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n8
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Post by n8 on Aug 8, 2011 22:37:20 GMT -5
These the same as a Diplomat, Gran Fury, or 5th Ave?
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Aug 9, 2011 12:57:54 GMT -5
F body = Aspen, Volare
J body = 80-83 Cordoba, Mirada, Imperial
M body = Diplomat, LeBaron, 5th Ave, '82-'83 NYer, '82-'89 Gran Fury
All of the above should be included in this tips thread. I feel like I missed something though, if someone has a correction please post it.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Aug 9, 2011 13:25:27 GMT -5
Thanks, the old thread had the models listed, seeing their body designations confused the hell out of me. As far as basic tips go these, removing the rubber pucks and bolting the k frame solid, ( welding the subframe to the k member if allowed), ditching the lean burn ignition and going to points or an aftermarket HEI, cranking the torsion bars up, putting a bia rear end in,notching the rear subframe and removing the rear bumper will help out.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Aug 10, 2011 10:33:39 GMT -5
As far as basic tips go these, removing the rubber pucks and bolting the k frame solid, ( welding the subframe to the k member if allowed), ditching the lean burn ignition and going to points or an aftermarket HEI, cranking the torsion bars up, putting a bia rear end in, and removing the rear bumper will help out. the above plus a solid front bumper is a good basic formula for building these cars for a stock show. A smart driver can take the small size of these cars and turn it to his advantage.
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Post by drphiluponya55xr on Aug 10, 2011 21:03:52 GMT -5
Got a dippy ran one it bent in floors bad rear seat area and in the cowl any suggestions as how to prevent this someone mentioned 9 wire? Unsure how to use it also someone mentioned frame connecters rules say no connectors thought bout running 9 wire through floor down to rails and running it up to rear seat bar to help prevent going down any suggestions?
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ONETON
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ONE TON DERBY CREW
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Post by ONETON on Aug 10, 2011 23:32:02 GMT -5
ok i have an 83 newyorker/fifth ave. its built no=weld. I have a pontiac bumper I have ran on acouple lincolns upside down and want to put it on this car. My question is should I run it upside down or normal and should I hardnose it? Any suggestion would be helpful. I can weld bumper to brackers with no extra metal or to frame I believe.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Aug 11, 2011 0:19:23 GMT -5
the above plus a solid front bumper is a great basic formula for building these cars for a stock show. A smart driver can take the small size of these cars and turn it to his advantage.[/quote] Thanks, missed the part about a decent front bumper. Figured it would be good to put the basic tips on here right away. Stuffing shocks or using leaf springs from a 1/2 ton Chevy truck will gain some height in the back. Clamping the leaf springs would be a good idea, as would reinforcing the shackles if rules allow. As far as it bending in the rear seat area, what I did (but havent tested it) was build my four point cage with down bars, which had plates that bolted to the floor above the subframe and I put another plate below the subframe and bolted them together. Thi should stop it from bending at that point but I will let you know for sure in a couple weeks.
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Post by chevypowered on Aug 11, 2011 5:37:03 GMT -5
come on guys i've never ran a chrysler, could use all the tips you have
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Post by Krueggs81 on Aug 11, 2011 9:28:41 GMT -5
Small list to do. Ill put stuff in but some may not apply to your rules or how you wanna build your car.
Good Front Bumper Weld Frame Take Pucks Out Weld K Frame Remove Rear Bumper Tuck and Notch Rear End 9 wire
Have pics of my 88 Fury if you wanna see!
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Post by Leadfoot on Aug 12, 2011 12:22:22 GMT -5
n8 what do you mean "stuffing shocks". Running my first derby in sept with an 86 fifth ave. 1980 and newer no weld show. I have the axle locked, the leanburn gone. The rubber mounts have to stay. Looking to build a solid car. If you can think of anything I have missed or any other sugestions please let me know. Thanks.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Aug 12, 2011 12:33:49 GMT -5
"rubber mounts have to stay" I would saw out the metal sleeves and re-bolt it tight with the rubbers still there
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Post by Krueggs81 on Aug 12, 2011 16:39:53 GMT -5
Really why leave the rubber mounts? Do you put hockey pucks in there?
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Aug 15, 2011 10:36:11 GMT -5
Really why leave the rubber mounts? Do you put hockey pucks in there? I wouldn't do either if it was up to me, but the guy said the "rubber mounts had to stay" which I interpret to mean they will check to see that there is still a soft rubber mount there. If that is the case, I would pull out the metal sleeves and bolt it back together with the rubbers.... crank the bolts hard and squish it together.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Aug 16, 2011 1:48:56 GMT -5
By stuffing the shocks, I mean sticking old rags in the dust cover, squishing them in, then letting the car down, bounce it repeatedly, jack it up and put more in there. The last car we pumped the cover full of grease and then put rags in. Made quite the mess but we spent less than an hour and 5 bucks, and gained at least 2-3 inches of height in the back. Half ton truck shocks would work too but I did not have any of them around.
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