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Post by crusher71 on Feb 26, 2016 17:11:46 GMT -5
DRYBLOCK.......
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Post by STROMI 121 on Feb 26, 2016 21:31:51 GMT -5
Im allowed expanded metal and aftermarket aluminum radiators. Haven't lost a drop of water in many years. This has allot to do with your availability of parts, build abilities, and has mostly to do with your rules. Some shows don't allow anything in the form of radiator protection, and some allow allot. JMO
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Post by redneckracing12 on Feb 27, 2016 0:35:53 GMT -5
Im allowed expanded metal and aftermarket aluminum radiators. Haven't lost a drop of water in many years. This has allot to do with your availability of parts, build abilities, and has mostly to do with your rules. Some shows don't allow anything in the form of radiator protection, and some allow allot. JMO Agreed. I run stock/stockish shows and rad protection is tough with those rules so I always loop the hoses. Iv ran two rads since I started running and lost both in the heat. I can run for a pretty long time without any issues. If you are on alky I'd loop the hoses without a question.
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Post by taterjuice on Feb 27, 2016 13:49:35 GMT -5
So you're saying once we're boiling 240 degrees after 5 minutes, the only way to cool down is to hold it at say 5000 rpm instead of 2000? Seems like opposing ideas to me but I missed most of 9th grade. I'm not doubting your theory by any means, but in my personal experience running a wide open hole will always get hot 3x faster than having some sort of restriction as long as there's a rad pulling some air. Radi-barrel, sure. Run em wide open because it's all about volume at that point but I fail to see how running 100% flow through a rad is more efficient. Yes, I raced circle track for awhile and that is where i got the restriction idea from, but I tried each and every way in a derby setting and I personally have had far better luck with restriction First, boiling is 212. second, if your boiling after 5 minutes you got more issues than a water restriction. c. When we discuss flow, we are not implying that in order to increase flow or decrease flow you need to raise rpm or lower rpm. we are talking about the little restriction in the water neck. which is adjustable regardless of engine rpm. D. You can try to make me look like an idiot by the "opposing idea" statement but it wont work. Everyone knows already im an idiot. i dont have theorys or opinions cause those can cost someone their life. In the professional world you have facts or you shut your mouth. When i talked about 40 gpm earlier, thats where the facts lie. you have to move water, you dont derby 7000 rpm the whole time so you cant use oval track development. If thats the case then why dont you run a 260 degree cam, goodyear 8 inch wide tires, Bert transmission, Winters quick change rear end. Why? Because oval guys do it so i should derby it too. Im an oval guy, thats how i make my living, I get what your saying. But seriously, you have something wrong if you cant keep water under 240 in 5 minutes. I dont try to tell you what to do, all i do is lay the facts out there to help you make a decision and hopefully make you all smarter. 212, is boiling point of water at sea level without any antifreeze and not under pressure. All those factors matter I do believe. Jus sayin bro
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Post by taterjuice on Feb 27, 2016 13:51:46 GMT -5
Thought you were still on time out ?
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joker14
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The more I see the less I have to believe.
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Post by joker14 on Mar 3, 2016 16:26:43 GMT -5
First, boiling is 212. second, if your boiling after 5 minutes you got more issues than a water restriction. c. When we discuss flow, we are not implying that in order to increase flow or decrease flow you need to raise rpm or lower rpm. we are talking about the little restriction in the water neck. which is adjustable regardless of engine rpm. D. You can try to make me look like an idiot by the "opposing idea" statement but it wont work. Everyone knows already im an idiot. i dont have theorys or opinions cause those can cost someone their life. In the professional world you have facts or you shut your mouth. When i talked about 40 gpm earlier, thats where the facts lie. you have to move water, you dont derby 7000 rpm the whole time so you cant use oval track development. If thats the case then why dont you run a 260 degree cam, goodyear 8 inch wide tires, Bert transmission, Winters quick change rear end. Why? Because oval guys do it so i should derby it too. Im an oval guy, thats how i make my living, I get what your saying. But seriously, you have something wrong if you cant keep water under 240 in 5 minutes. I dont try to tell you what to do, all i do is lay the facts out there to help you make a decision and hopefully make you all smarter. 212, is boiling point of water at sea level without any antifreeze and not under pressure. All those factors matter I do believe. Jus sayin bro that comment just shows you ignorance by interjecting things that are to be considered "equal" we are comparing relativity. Yes you are correct, tap water, seal level, clean rad, dirty rad, bla bla bla, you can muddy the water all you want but it wont make you look smarter than me. Cause thats the only reason you commented. Get a life fuch face. Just sayin bro.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Mar 3, 2016 18:15:49 GMT -5
Civic CRX Del Sol Integra MT Manual Two Row Core Aluminum Radiator m.ebay.com/itm/400561372754?nav=SEARCHAt this price, you could afford to pay a guy to tig a larger piece off aluminum pipe to the inlet& outlet. Or for that matter, even tig some AN Fittings and run 2inch, 2 wire hydraulic hose for radiator hose. I bought it and ran it at a clean up derby. It served its purpose until the older hoses I was using failed. Car ran for 15 minutes or so with radiator I think. I didn't even need to weld new fittings on it to use it.
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Post by taterjuice on Mar 4, 2016 13:48:38 GMT -5
212, is boiling point of water at sea level without any antifreeze and not under pressure. All those factors matter I do believe. Jus sayin bro that comment just shows you ignorance by interjecting things that are to be considered "equal" we are comparing relativity. Yes you are correct, tap water, seal level, clean rad, dirty rad, bla bla bla, you can muddy the water all you want but it wont make you look smarter than me. Cause thats the only reason you commented. Get a life fuch face. Just sayin bro. Just clarifying a few things. Strange how some ppl get so but hurt over simply stating facts. Your welcome and as always jus sayin bro
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Apr 13, 2016 23:55:01 GMT -5
Is anyone using the newer aluminum/plastic radiators? I've never used one, how do they hold up?
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Post by klicky96 on Apr 14, 2016 6:20:04 GMT -5
If they don't move and don't take an impact, they're fine. But, obviously that's hard to do. The channels bust right off, the plastic shatters, and it just causes you a headache.
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mn13
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Post by mn13 on Apr 14, 2016 12:14:49 GMT -5
I have had just as good of luck with the plastic as anything else. No matter what if my rad get in the way its toast, but I just run stockish builds
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Apr 14, 2016 13:32:04 GMT -5
Thanks guys. I Was looking at a few newer big rads from 1 ton diesel trucks thinking maybe it would be worth a shot but maybe not.
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Post by stellis124 on Apr 14, 2016 13:53:43 GMT -5
quick question, ill try to make it not confusing im running a compact car, so the radiator in the car is compact size (obvi) (ford escort) if I were to take out the rad and try and run a very small rad in the car would it be better or worse? would it be harder for the rad to get hit and crack because its smaller and more condensed instead of large, take for instance a tire if you run a large tire its a bigger target if you run a small tire its harder to get hit, does that work for a radiator? what do you guys think?
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Post by crusher71 on Apr 14, 2016 16:36:13 GMT -5
DRYBLOCK..... SOLVES IT ALL..... JUST SAYIN` BRO............ SMH
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n8
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Post by n8 on Apr 14, 2016 19:22:24 GMT -5
Is anyone using the newer aluminum/plastic radiators? I've never used one, how do they hold up? I go through them quickly.Plastic side tanks are always the failure.
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