61j
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Post by 61j on Feb 10, 2013 21:34:37 GMT -5
I have a 14 bolt corporate rear end that I plan on make a pinion brake for, my question is... I broke the threaded piece that the yoke bolts to (pinion) so what is involved in changing the threaded piece? Where can I get one? And what else do I need to know about it? Thanks! A new ring and pinion. Unless you know a good machinist that can weld it up and recut the threads.
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cw09
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Post by cw09 on Feb 23, 2013 19:47:01 GMT -5
I'm going to brace up a 14 bolt corporate. Anyone ever use railroad iron to brace a rearend??? I stuck it up to the axle tubes tonight it looks like it would work too well. Both edges of the rail road iron snug up perfect to the rearend axle to get a great welds on goes out to half way on the axle tube. Is railroad iron a higher carbon content steel like leaf spring? If so it would be a bad idea.
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Post by fordpower111 on Feb 23, 2013 21:15:40 GMT -5
Weld it You will be alright!
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cw09
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Post by cw09 on Feb 23, 2013 21:28:11 GMT -5
Any ideas about a 14 bolt corporate pinion brake. I saw the picture of a dana 60 using a ford contour caliper. Would I be able to to do the same with a corporate rearend?
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Post by fordpower111 on Feb 23, 2013 21:42:51 GMT -5
Actually that is a ford contour rotor with a 89 vic caliper. You should be able to do the same thing. You will have to find a flange to put on the end of your drive shaft. If you don't have one already.
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Post by fordpower111 on Feb 23, 2013 21:52:38 GMT -5
I have welded rail road iron in a load-out building for a bio-diesel plant. Welds the same as mild steel.
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cw09
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Post by cw09 on Feb 23, 2013 22:04:54 GMT -5
Actually that is a ford contour rotor with a 89 vic caliper. You should be able to do the same thing. You will have to find a flange to put on the end of your drive shaft. If you don't have one already. Ok looked at the picture again it was yours ;D That looks like the stock yoke welded onto a piece of round 3/8 and bolted to the rotor. Do you think I could do the same for a 14 bolt? Also did you just run bolts through the factory lug holes? I can get many many different rotors and calipers for free all I have to do is give a call. So if you think it would be wise use something else that would be easily done.
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Post by fordpower111 on Feb 23, 2013 22:27:55 GMT -5
If you could find a flange and a rotor with the same bolts hole that would be great. Just have to do a little research. On mine the flange is welded to the 3/8 plate and the plate is bolted to the rotor and the rotor is bolted to the pinion flange. The 3/8 plate acts as a spacer too. When you bolt the rotor to the pinion flange i drilled new holes in the rotor so the heads of the bolts stick out from the rotor. So the 3/8 plate has 2 different hole patterns 1 for the for the bolts holding the rotor to the pinion and the 2nd are to bolt the plate to the rotor lug stud holes to bolt the 3/8 plate to the rotor. Then the driveshaft flange is welded to the 3/8 plate which holds the u-joints.
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61j
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Post by 61j on Feb 24, 2013 1:01:16 GMT -5
Postal Mopar/raptor fab have a pinion brake for a 14 bolt.
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Post by fordpower111 on Feb 24, 2013 8:47:53 GMT -5
Or you can buy one like has been said above and spend money.
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cw09
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Post by cw09 on Feb 24, 2013 15:29:00 GMT -5
Thinking the rail iron might be too much for a 14 bolt. The rearend comes from the factory weighing 550lbs and the pumpkin sits low. What my thoughts are is that the added weight to the rearend will make it more prone to sink in the ground and bury the pumpkin, but you have these outlaw cars that weigh several tons and they look as if they are doing fine. Any thoughts on this? If you think it's good to go for I'll do it and go through at least a couple cut off saw blades lol.
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Post by rayray on Feb 24, 2013 18:01:53 GMT -5
it will work up until the rail cracks! that's why the railroad rail is taken out of service cause its defective and has hair line cracks in it! you need a camera to see them but once you find them you can finish the crack with a chisel and hammer. Seen rails crack the hole distance with one hit of the chisel!
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cw09
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Post by cw09 on Feb 24, 2013 21:02:15 GMT -5
That's why I thought their carbon content was higher. Using different steel now made up the truss this afternoon. It's not welded down yet. Making it fit 80's and newer ford and gm. For the trailing arm brackets it looks like you can figure out the width portion easily enough with a tape measurer tire to tire is the width. For the height might be a little confused on how to do that. It'll probably not measure the same as an 8.8 or 7.5. Does this matter a whole lot using stock trailing arms? From bolt hole to bolt hole the distance will be more going up and down. I don't know how much further yet though. My truss is basically __---__ 2 pieces of channel on top of the axle tubes with more channel holding up a piece of channel going across the top of the pumpkin. Then I'll put more bracing on the back of the axle tubes and brace the pieces holding the channel that take the upper two trailing arms. Obviously, I have never made up a rearend myself before where you make your own trailing arm brackets.
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Post by Comet Cyclone on Feb 26, 2013 22:21:24 GMT -5
can a locker out of a dana 70 be used in a sterling 10.25 and use the same gear ratio in the sterling?
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Post by fordpower111 on Feb 26, 2013 22:22:29 GMT -5
Google it! ;D
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