dm440c
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derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
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Post by dm440c on Nov 26, 2013 12:16:00 GMT -5
you said you don't want it to roll but you do want it to "come in at me like they do on wagons" which has me confused. When the wagons "come in" it is because they pinch together at the top of the humps and form a tent over the axle which is B-A-D in capital letters. Surely this isn't what you mean....? And if it was to "come in at you" without rolling into a ball, well, I'm just plain confused about what that might mean which makes it difficult to offer advice. Can you elaborate?
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Post by purdy20 on Nov 26, 2013 12:23:20 GMT -5
you said you don't want it to roll but you do want it to "come in at me like they do on wagons" which has me confused. When the wagons "come in" it is because they pinch together at the top of the humps and form a tent over the axle which is B-A-D in capital letters. Surely this isn't what you mean....? And if it was to "come in at you" without rolling into a ball, well, I'm just plain confused about what that might mean which makes it difficult to offer advice. Can you elaborate? X2 I'm confused to what he's wanting.
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Mar 29, 2014 11:00:52 GMT -5
I've never notched any of my Mopars yet, I've got a 69 fury sedan with a looooong trunk, its kinda gross to look at. I'm really thinking this one NEEDS to be notched... I'm running in a pretty much stock show, I'm allowed to add and clamp leafs and tuck the trunk, the rules don't say I can't chain the humps so that's an automatic green light there... Can't shorten leafs, or relocate, no creasing, canoing or all thread...
Anyone have pics of how they notch their y framers?
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Post by Johnny L on Mar 29, 2014 12:31:07 GMT -5
I'm not a fan of notching unibody cars. That being said what I do is take your torch and heat a line from left to right along the trunk floor where u would notch the frame rails but go across the entire floor. Take a piece of pipe/all thread/whatever and lay it across the floor where you heated it and pound it down with a BFH essentially creasing the entire trunk floor and frame rails all at once. Every one I've done like this has rolled perfectly for me.
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Mar 29, 2014 19:30:52 GMT -5
That's a really awesome idea Johnny!
Where is the sweet spot to "notch"? I've heard most guys say to notch in front of the spring mounts is this right? if so how far? Wouldn't the springs get bent and pulled up and over the chassis? or is this what you want to happen? I've never notched a car, this one is pretty strong, just an enormously long trunk, looks twice as long as my hard top.
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Post by 513monster on Mar 29, 2014 20:52:43 GMT -5
you want to right after the mounts(bumper side, not "hump" side). You have the right idea about it curling with the leafs if you do it in front of them... You essentially want to create a wall right at the end of your mounts. You may want to give it a few inches between your dimple/notch and mounts though, seen some wierd bending when they are too close...then again sometimes it works really good
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Mar 31, 2014 20:08:19 GMT -5
I've never notched any of my Mopars yet, I've got a 69 fury sedan with a looooong trunk, its kinda gross to look at. I'm really thinking this one NEEDS to be notched... I'm running in a pretty much stock show, I'm allowed to add and clamp leafs and tuck the trunk, the rules don't say I can't chain the humps so that's an automatic green light there... Can't shorten leafs, or relocate, no creasing, canoing or all thread... Anyone have pics of how they notch their y framers? For the Y frame cars with the type of rules you described, especially the Dodge and Plymouth versions, a strategy I recommend would be to tuck the trunk lid and do nothing to the trunk floor. Cut the ridge on the top of the fenders right in line with the tuck and hammer in on the cuts just a tad. Stiff leaf pack with tight chains to set the ride height of the back slightly lower than the front. 9 wire the lid through the trunk floor. Should roll into a nice tight ball.
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Apr 2, 2014 23:16:48 GMT -5
I'm not so sure they would let me go with the 9 wire through the lid and floor, but I suppose worst case scenario would be a 5 min job with side cutters to correct it...
Thanks for all the help guys, greatly appreciated.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Apr 3, 2014 10:48:36 GMT -5
even if the bottom half is just flapping it will work ok, but it is better to tie the bottom to the top somehow so the whole thing doesn't get blown up before it can pack in.
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Post by derby2racer on May 29, 2014 22:38:48 GMT -5
trying to find out if i can expect my trunk on my 68 new yorker to be pretty tough... I canoed it down a decent amount from speaker deck to the back, notched(3/4 inch deep) about 4 inches behind the end of the leafs, creased the top of the fenders above where i notched, two pieces of allthread from trunk lid to the trunk floor(not to the frame), and added one clamp on the leafs in front and behind the axle on each side. Does this sound like it should do pretty well? Im hoping it will stay straight for quite a while, but when it does decide to bend, it will bend and roll like we would all like.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on May 30, 2014 10:00:37 GMT -5
"stay straight" and "roll" are two different strategies. As I have written several times- I personally believe you have to choose one or the other and commit to it. Canoed full length trunk lids are used in a "stay straight" strategy while notches are used in a "roll" strategy. Most of what you described are "roll" strategy treatments, so I would suggest you stay with that and either tuck the rear part of the trunk lid in line with the notch or just cut it off there. Leaving it full length will interfere with the roll when it bends at the notches and probably lead to a whale tail or at the very least it will block your vision pretty quick.
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Post by derby2racer on May 30, 2014 16:55:03 GMT -5
ok, thanks dm. i will probably cut the weld on the trunk lid seam from the notch back and tuck the trunk lid down. I appreciate your help and explaining the reasoning or most likely outcome along with it.
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dm440c
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derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
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Post by dm440c on May 31, 2014 6:54:01 GMT -5
Yeah, I believe that will give you a better result. To explain further, the canoe from the speaker deck to the notch is good because when the back part rolls up you want it to stay tight and not push the lid up.... so keep that part of it.
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Post by derby2racer on Jun 1, 2014 18:43:27 GMT -5
i ended up just cutting the trunk lid off, from the notch back. after i cut that off, i canoed it down just a little more and sucked my allthread tight again. should be good to go now. Thanks again for the help.
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dm440c
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derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
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Post by dm440c on Jun 4, 2014 11:30:11 GMT -5
Based on all of that... my expectation is that it will fold quickly until it hits the thread rod and front half of the trunk lid. It should stay that way for a while after that. Demo derby is full of surprises of course so keep an eye on it to make sure it is doing what you want.
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