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Post by twisted66 on Oct 10, 2012 2:26:05 GMT -5
Thank you guys for the info. I know that trunk on 3sums doba was stout. It got used a few times hard. Was it a double frame car dev?
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Oct 10, 2012 11:35:08 GMT -5
Will that work with a 69 newport as well. yes the same set of treatments will improve the newport.... but for clarity and completeness I would say in an apples-to-apples comparison with all things being equal the doba has a much better trunk.
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grinder
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Post by grinder on Oct 10, 2012 13:49:40 GMT -5
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99x
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Post by 99x on Oct 11, 2012 8:56:55 GMT -5
Noser23x has a photo of a buddy of ours whos rear packed perfect contact him for the photo
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wildchild
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Post by wildchild on Oct 11, 2012 9:42:21 GMT -5
Okay, I have a few questions about the best way to build a trunk. I have 1 rusty 77 magnum and have a line on 78 magnum and a 78 cordoba that aren't too bad. We aren't allowed to plate our humps so would wedging the trunks be an opion or canoe the trunk and use althread to the frame or canoe and tuck the trunk with altread to frame. I wedged a prerun 66 New Yorker a years ago with out plating and blew the SH!t out of the humps in the first heat. Don't want that to happen again. I know the frames are different so I'm wondering if the R body rear frames can handle the wedging?
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Oct 11, 2012 13:03:52 GMT -5
Okay, I have a few questions about the best way to build a trunk. I have 1 rusty 77 magnum and have a line on 78 magnum and a 78 cordoba that aren't too bad. We aren't allowed to plate our humps so would wedging the trunks be an opion or canoe the trunk and use althread to the frame or canoe and tuck the trunk with altread to frame. I wedged a prerun 66 New Yorker a years ago with out plating and blew the SH!t out of the humps in the first heat. Don't want that to happen again. I know the frames are different so I'm wondering if the R body rear frames can handle the wedging? look up six posts, I talk directly about Cordoba trunks and my thoughts on the difference between rusty and not rusty. short version: solid = build to stay straight rusty = build to roll
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wildchild
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Post by wildchild on Oct 11, 2012 23:27:10 GMT -5
I read your post and it was very helpful. I guess the question I'm asking is can you wedge the trunk of an R body with out plating the humps, welding the frame, or relocating the leafs provided its not rusted out? Or will the frame and humps go every which way but loose with out the listed alterations. Our rules won't allow these mods. Has anyone wedged one with out any of the mods listed? Any info or pics would be great.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Oct 12, 2012 10:28:39 GMT -5
I read your post and it was very helpful. I guess the question I'm asking is can you wedge the trunk of an R body with out plating the humps, welding the frame, or relocating the leafs provided its not rusted out? yesOr will the frame and humps go every which way but loose with out the listed alterations. maybe... there are no guarantees and these are not completely predictableOur rules won't allow these mods. Has anyone wedged one with out any of the mods listed? yes, worked well, no pics, no guarantees it will work as well for you. Bottom line is that if the trunk frame and pan is solid then I always build the B and R body cars to be strong and straight within whatever rules I have. If there is rust back there then I build them to roll up instead. Any info or pics would be great.
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doba3sum
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Post by doba3sum on Oct 12, 2012 19:41:06 GMT -5
Yes Ryan both the cars I posted had the double hump
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wildchild
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Post by wildchild on Oct 13, 2012 13:24:17 GMT -5
Thanks dm440c for answering my questions. I will try and use the information you gave me on my next R body build.
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99x
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Post by 99x on Oct 13, 2012 14:00:24 GMT -5
seamed to work good for the second year now going on third...
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seven1seven
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Post by seven1seven on Feb 10, 2013 10:18:45 GMT -5
71 newperial started out like this.... to this after 5 derbies this car was dimpled and not notched... would dish out the punishment just as good as it took it... a few special tricks that were added but for the most part was stock parts... the key is to keep the sheetmetal tight and tied together... A MOPAR TRUNK CAN BE HARD AND HOLD TOGETHER IF YOU TAKE THE TIME TO THINK IT OUT, BUILD IT RIGHT AND USE IT RIGHT... this isnt the only one I have built like this, but every one seems to do the same thing.... feel free to pm me if you have ?s, I will not disclose the info to everyone on the thread as there are to many guys that want free info without the R&D like many of us do... a few of us have been doing this with mopars for years but most were before the days of cell phone pics or digital cams so this is the only one I have pics of on the computer... DISCLAIMER---- Im not saying Im the best mopar trunk builder, Im saying Ive had GREAT luck with this setup in stock, mod and promod type builds and am willing to reveal some info if interested ;D
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swervin
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Post by swervin on Feb 16, 2013 10:27:05 GMT -5
This is the only pic I have of a before trunk set up. 68 Newport. And after 3 derbies. The last 2 where with imps.
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Post by blackmopar21 on Apr 9, 2013 20:23:33 GMT -5
Also contrary to what you hear, you want a good ass end on a mopar DO NOT TAKE THE BACK BUMPER OFF!
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Tman21
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Post by Tman21 on Apr 9, 2013 20:26:58 GMT -5
My first try at tucking a '68 Yorker
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