noser23x
Feature Winner
R.W.C.
Posts: 1,969
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Post by noser23x on Apr 4, 2016 23:19:34 GMT -5
Eh, its mostly a promoter decision because alot of the times plain and simple it isnt actually there for its intended purpose. I still say do it close enough to the same as white and green one. These cars rear body lines are in reality wrong for our sport. Make it soft, try to get the back bumper to touch the speaker deck and drive forward. Hard is not the key in the back. Rule changed, they're allowed now, 24" wide and can't be touching sheet metal, no clear definition on how far though. Also, this car is a bucket. The roof and floor is bad, as is the trunk floor. I've patched many floors and trunks, but the roof is odd. I'm thinking of just taking a hood, slicing it to curve around the roof, and do some straight cuts in the hood to kind of plug weld it to the roof. Thoughts? If you can get away with that go for it, anytime you can plug weld it that helps.
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Apr 5, 2016 1:32:42 GMT -5
If the frame wasn't still mostly black, I would have walked away. That and the 12 bolt BIA and sweet looking bumper just makes it seem, to me anyways, like all the rust repair will be worth it. Now, if I could just get the damned seat to go back and forth so I could take it out to remove the rest of the carpet and put in my patches, that'd be great.
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Post by cowdoc on Apr 5, 2016 18:58:44 GMT -5
I expect Crusher to comment here
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Apr 9, 2016 23:43:13 GMT -5
I'm going to use the stock front bumper, but should I use the factory bumper mount, only relocate it so it doesn't stick out as far, OR use the front shocks off my 78 Plymouth Fury sedan? I was told by a couple people that the pinch frame fury shocks are best on a Cadillac or Buick. Also probably going to pull the stock bumper bumper apart, and stuff it with some solid round stock. Or should I just mount it flush with the core support? Also, should I fold the upper part of the fender that goes over the headlights and either bolt or stitch weld it to the core support?
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Post by 513monster on Apr 10, 2016 8:26:35 GMT -5
Tbh with as rusty as it is where it is, and since it's determined to be ran, I would mount flush to the core support with long shocks(if allowed), fold and mold the fenders and do my best to tie it all together and go nosing.
Please run a good halo+cage, I foresee this dumping pretty hard in front of the humps
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Apr 10, 2016 13:49:30 GMT -5
Yeah, I'm going to build a good cage, with everything going to the frame where it can. The halo is allowed to go as far back as the first body mount in front of the rear tires, gas tank protector, 1" body mounts pulled down to the frame, and I'm using either a hood or new sheet metal, cutting, folding it over and around the roof and bolting/welding it solid. I was going to double the rear springs and 9 wire or chain the rear to the humps. That along with the rear window bar going all along the rear window area I'm thinking should be enough. The GTP also gets a little halo. After I pulled all the trim and crap off the exterior and stripped the interior, the roof and floor is the only bad spots. The exterior isn't that bad, it's just where the vinyl top and rats peed on the carpet that it's bad.
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Post by 513monster on Apr 10, 2016 13:57:32 GMT -5
Im not sure how a scorpion tale would work on these, but if you could get it to roll in on itself I think would be your best bet. The only thing I keep thinking with these(regardless of condition) is to get them to pack low because of the pillar design, but riding a fine line doing so.
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Apr 10, 2016 15:18:22 GMT -5
Im not sure how a scorpion tale would work on these, but if you could get it to roll in on itself I think would be your best bet. The only thing I keep thinking with these(regardless of condition) is to get them to pack low because of the pillar design, but riding a fine line doing so. Maybe if I flipped the rear bumper mounts making the bumper sit under the frame rather than over it, that would help it pack a little better?
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Post by 513monster on Apr 10, 2016 21:09:20 GMT -5
Maybe if I flipped the rear bumper mounts making the bumper sit under the frame rather than over it, that would help it pack a little better? Might make it plow, may not? I need to get a better look at the rear bumper setup/frame and see if a diagonal notch to get it to pack in on itself, then a dimple a few inches from the base of the humps would work the way I'm visualizing it(think end result pro-mod vic). The way i see these cars doing really good is to have it pack low and have everything push into your GTP(not blowing the humps without hump plates is the tricky part). It seems like if they start going up, the pillars/body can't handle it and start bellying out pulling the frame with it. I also think you could mix alexryan's and josh harts builds and have good results, or even a canoed tuck while sitting low. Regardless of how its done, I think if you can keep the rear bumper from going over the center of gravity(say ~speaker deck?), the trunks on these could enter a whole new ballgame from what they are seen as. The only issue then(if you could get it to pack in/low) is again, the humps blowing(or how well your gtp/cage setup is desgined to keep it from bellying if you had hump plates). I want to find one of these to run around here to test this, but the only ones I've found are either rotten or far over priced because "the glass is worth a bunch of money man".
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Apr 10, 2016 21:22:55 GMT -5
Maybe if I flipped the rear bumper mounts making the bumper sit under the frame rather than over it, that would help it pack a little better? Might make it plow, may not? I need to get a better look at the rear bumper setup/frame and see if a diagonal notch to get it to pack in on itself, then a dimple a few inches from the base of the humps would work the way I'm visualizing it(think end result pro-mod vic). The way i see these cars doing really good is to have it pack low and have everything push into your GTP(not blowing the humps without hump plates is the tricky part). It seems like if they start going up, the pillars/body can't handle it and start bellying out pulling the frame with it. I also think you could mix alexryan's and josh harts builds and have good results, or even a canoed tuck while sitting low. Regardless of how its done, I think if you can keep the rear bumper from going over the center of gravity(say ~speaker deck?), the trunks on these could enter a whole new ballgame from what they are seen as. The only issue then(if you could get it to pack in/low) is again, the humps blowing(or how well your gtp/cage setup is desgined to keep it from bellying if you had hump plates). I want to find one of these to run around here to test this, but the only ones I've found are either rotten or far over priced because "the glass is worth a bunch of money man". I'll take some pictures of the rear bumper and frame on mine. It goes from a box frame to c channel mid way if I remember right. And the rear bumper brackets make the bumper sit above the frame rail, rather than being inline with it like most other cars. Maybe if I hardassed it, keeping the bumper in line with the frame, and setting the rear at about 18-20", that might make it different.
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Apr 11, 2016 12:25:14 GMT -5
Here's what the rear looks like. It's boxed half way then goes to c channel until the bumper mount. And like I said, the bumper mount is goofy, setting the bumper up over the Here's the inside of the frame Here's a side view of the bumper mount And here's how it mounts to the bumper. I think maybe if I put the bumper mounts on the open side of the frame and welded them on, plus made it where the bumper was in line with be frame, or swapped it for another flatter bumper, it would pack and roll better.
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Post by 513monster on Apr 11, 2016 14:32:47 GMT -5
hmm, i thought the ones i looked at were boxed??.. changes things a bit but could still build it to pack low, just have to change a few things, and run a soft rear bumper to let it V
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Post by cheezwhiz31 on Apr 11, 2016 15:44:38 GMT -5
Not trying to knock you one bit for this car but I highly recommend finding a different car. The backs of these cars are not very good when 100% rust free. The front stubs are good. If frame is clean and your not too deep into this build I'd say cut the front stub out and stuff the front bumper and you will have a pretty tough bumper with a nice point on it. But from the sounds of your build you are wanting to use the back of this car and I will tell you with all your time and effort into this build you are not going to be happy with what is going to happen to the back of this. You said you are putting a new roof on the car. That is going to be a pain with the rust you have to weld too and the roof isn't going to stop the bending it will rip your front window/door pillars right off. Just letting you know this is not a build worth your time. Good luck.
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Apr 11, 2016 15:53:41 GMT -5
Not trying to knock you one bit for this car but I highly recommend finding a different car. The backs of these cars are not very good when 100% rust free. The front stubs are good. If frame is clean and your not too deep into this build I'd say cut the front stub out and stuff the front bumper and you will have a pretty tough bumper with a nice point on it. But from the sounds of your build you are wanting to use the back of this car and I will tell you with all your time and effort into this build you are not going to be happy with what is going to happen to the back of this. You said you are putting a new roof on the car. That is going to be a pain with the rust you have to weld too and the roof isn't going to stop the bending it will rip your front window/door pillars right off. Just letting you know this is not a build worth your time. Good luck. Yeah, I'm not cutting the front off, I don't typically run GMs, and I rarely use reverse, as I hate turning around lol. I'm thinking maybe a diplomat bumper would be better, or maybe a squishy Córdoba front bumper.
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Apr 27, 2016 3:55:11 GMT -5
I noticed the rear frame of my car looks identical to my uncles 73 Delta 88, it kinked right where the frame goes from being boxed over the humps to c channel half way of the trunk. Would it be beneficial to flip the trunk lid upside down, trim it to fit, and bolt it to the floor through the body mount bolts, then beat the rear fenders down, wedging it? I'd also have my rear window bar going as far back as possible on the speaker deck. It's a stock show, but were allowed everything I mentioned earlier, including the promoter telling us "unlimited #9 wire, I don't care how, where or why you use it". If I built the trunk like this, should I mess with the back bumper, or leave it as is, just weld the mounts on?
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