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Post by holtzen66 on Mar 23, 2016 21:41:05 GMT -5
Cant move the leafs. And i know what i want with the front and its gonna be damn hard! The rear end was my only question. Whats your opinion or bumpers?
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Punisher 66J
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F**K WELD CLASS, STOCK IS FOR TRUE DERBY DRIVERS!!!
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Post by Punisher 66J on Mar 23, 2016 21:48:37 GMT -5
Cant move the leafs. And i know what i want with the front and its gonna be damn hard! The rear end was my only question. Whats your opinion or bumpers? If building full weld it can easily hold a pointy but I myself like flat bumpers. Pointy bumpers cause more damage to other cars but they damage yours more as well. I would run a flat newport bumper hard nosed.
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Post by holtzen66 on Mar 23, 2016 21:53:28 GMT -5
Then thats what i will do! I really appreciate the help!
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Post by mopar22 on Apr 14, 2016 20:02:12 GMT -5
Building a 75 single frame doba and tips how to get the ass to pack in would be appreciated
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Punisher 66J
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Post by Punisher 66J on Apr 14, 2016 20:55:48 GMT -5
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Post by derbyman180 on May 14, 2016 8:26:04 GMT -5
Working on a 1975 Chrysler cordoba and had a few questions. I just replaced the rear with an 8 3/4 and I also moved the leaf springs in line with the frame rails. My question is what is the best way to determine pinion angle when I weld the new perches on? My other question is I know I have to shorten my drive shaft, do youcut some extra metal out to allow the trans yoke tobe able to slide like 1in or 2?
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Jun 6, 2016 20:22:00 GMT -5
The trick on 73's where you look to see if you have spool or buscuit style mounts, does that also apply to a slant 6 car? Just bought a 73 coronet with a /6 3 on the tree. I don't have a small block K frame, but I do have a couple diplomats if itd be close enough, and IMP sub, Y frame, or simply a big block 78 Fury k frame. I'm assuming all but the last would be just a major pain in the arse. Or is the 6 Cyl k frame still usable with relocated mounts? I've never bothered to look at a 6 Cyl car so I'm not sure how they mount in.
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Post by mrmagnum on Jun 8, 2016 9:56:58 GMT -5
I might be getting a 78 magnum. Guys wants the wheels and tires off. What bolt pattern is the car? Same as shocker, y framer?
Hey, what did you finally do with that Magnum? What parts if any, are good on it?
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Post by smallblockchevy on Jun 8, 2016 10:35:59 GMT -5
I might be getting a 78 magnum. Guys wants the wheels and tires off. What bolt pattern is the car? Same as shocker, y framer?
Hey, what did you finally do with that Magnum? What parts if any, are good on it?
I passed on the car. He put it on a few local websites for cheap. I think it went to minnesota to get used for parts
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Post by mrmagnum on Jun 8, 2016 12:01:26 GMT -5
OK, thanks for replying.
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Brown88
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TCB Inc.
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Post by Brown88 on Jul 3, 2016 22:32:11 GMT -5
Building a 78 doba I got the K member pucks pulled plan on doing a little welding from k member to frame were allowed to replace the shocks an weld 2x2 tubing the factory length of the bumper shock to the side of the frame was going to also shorten the frame a few inches an I am allowed to change body bolts to 3/4 bolts my question is will the car hold a homemade pointy bumper? Also plan to flat leaf with a long 9 leaf pack so how will the ass hold up 2?
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Post by triplerracer on Jul 4, 2016 8:02:49 GMT -5
Imo the back end should end up pretty hard. As for the bumper depends on how much point since its homemade. Some will say it will be fine some will say it's to much. I personally have never ran a v bumper on one of these cars so I can't say. But am seriously considering it since this may be the last car I run and may put a pointy on it and hold her to the floor and wreck some shit and put on a show. Always wanted to run an imp and go end to end of the track so this may be as close as I come!
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spark
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Post by spark on Sept 5, 2016 10:10:32 GMT -5
Ok so I got a doba and plan to build like I did my last one it was a tank in the front and the back never really moved until the killer of the car derby, the problem I have is the rear sub is pretty rusty so I planned on the rear end rolling, the leafs are moved to the sub but I'm pretty sure they'll end up pulling out through the bottom of the sub once it goes up. I'm gunna say from the very back of the rear sub till about 2/2.5 foot forward is pretty well junk I planned to try and weld some strap to the bottom of the sub to me the leafs from pulling through so long story short will these ass ends naturally roll in or is there any tricks to make sure I get it to roll in? I'm not even gunna mess with building a set of springs with the sub rusty, still plan to chain the humps unless anyone has any other ideas??
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Post by cowdoc on Sept 5, 2016 22:08:54 GMT -5
Ok so I got a doba and plan to build like I did my last one it was a tank in the front and the back never really moved until the killer of the car derby, the problem I have is the rear sub is pretty rusty so I planned on the rear end rolling, the leafs are moved to the sub but I'm pretty sure they'll end up pulling out through the bottom of the sub once it goes up. I'm gunna say from the very back of the rear sub till about 2/2.5 foot forward is pretty well junk I planned to try and weld some strap to the bottom of the sub to me the leafs from pulling through so long story short will these ass ends naturally roll in or is there any tricks to make sure I get it to roll in? I'm not even gunna mess with building a set of springs with the sub rusty, still plan to chain the humps unless anyone has any other ideas?? my preference is to wedge, not canoe or tuck, the trunks and run the rearend low so nobody hits the frame but can use it to break axles etc.
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spark
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Post by spark on Sept 5, 2016 22:25:32 GMT -5
Ok so I got a doba and plan to build like I did my last one it was a tank in the front and the back never really moved until the killer of the car derby, the problem I have is the rear sub is pretty rusty so I planned on the rear end rolling, the leafs are moved to the sub but I'm pretty sure they'll end up pulling out through the bottom of the sub once it goes up. I'm gunna say from the very back of the rear sub till about 2/2.5 foot forward is pretty well junk I planned to try and weld some strap to the bottom of the sub to me the leafs from pulling through so long story short will these ass ends naturally roll in or is there any tricks to make sure I get it to roll in? I'm not even gunna mess with building a set of springs with the sub rusty, still plan to chain the humps unless anyone has any other ideas?? my preference is to wedge, not canoe or tuck, the trunks and run the rearend low so nobody hits the frame but can use it to break axles etc. Right on I'll try it. I'm primarily going to be going with the front and spending most of my time making it stupid stout my last one held up awesome up front 5 derbies to be exact before going up and the rear done really well but I can't build the rear like I did cause of the rust and now they won't let me even make clamps for my springs. I'm a loner mopar guy here so I'm usually against all odds
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