noser23x
Feature Winner
R.W.C.
Posts: 1,970
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Post by noser23x on Dec 25, 2015 5:25:40 GMT -5
Well, going against DECKER's advice I'm swapping it for a 78 Fury four door, only issue is its got some rust on the rear sub that's pretty bad, about the size of a playing card judging from the pictures. I can plate it as much as I need. Unless it's too far gone? I have access to Arcair(if its really,really really bad), and have a torch, so getting the rust out won't be hard. Unless patching a Mopar is different than a gm or ford (aside from not being body on frame obviously) or a compact. I'm not scared of the work, and I'd still run this car in a full weld/mod class with a built leaf pack and a Corp 14 or Dana 60. The rust spot is after the leaf mount right before the hump. If you can patch no big deal. Just make sure your getting to solid clean metal. Not a desireable spot by any means. But good patching work and a solid leaf pack I dont see the issue. A playing card size rust is pretty bad for you. That would be damn near spotless for me lol. Im getting really good at patching rusty garbage.
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Post by holtzen66 on Jan 13, 2016 16:35:06 GMT -5
I am building a 78 doba double rear frame for the King of the Ring show here in Nebraska. it is only my 3rd show and i am wondering what would be the best for my ass end. floor and trunk pan are perfect, deck lid is perfect. I kinda want to wedge it but i am wanting some input on wether i should go hard and strait or let it roll up. i do not have a rear bumper for the car at this time but i am thinking about running a hard rear if i decide to go hard and strait. Any input would be apreciated. show is a limited weld and i can weld the halo bar to the rear unibody frame. will be running against round backs, vics, caddys, and 2 door shockers. 60 cars one heat. Crash fest express rules. thanks in advace. i have already read the whole thread.
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Jan 16, 2016 20:27:45 GMT -5
What is the best thickness of steel to use for rust repair on the rear frame? I mean, obviously 1"+ but realistically...... Its a 78 Fury, would 1/8" be ideal and pass through most general inspections without being looked at too hard?
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Jan 16, 2016 22:18:22 GMT -5
I would take some before pictures just to show how cheezy the frame was, then if questioned show the pictures and explain: "this (the repair) is the best i could do with what i had" I always refer to any "repair" in a negative manor as if it is less than an ideal situation. I have yet to get too much trouble from inspectors.
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Post by derbyman180 on Jan 17, 2016 19:04:49 GMT -5
Builind a leaf pack to put under a Chrysler cordoba. Relocating the leaf springs under the frame. What would be a good set of replacement springs with enough length? Maybe flat stacking as well. Any pictures or examples as well?
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Post by flashflud on Jan 17, 2016 22:06:18 GMT -5
I used the stock springs. Flipped 2 in the pack. I was able to build the pack with just a couple big C clamps. They weren't super stiff but the weren't stock. I was told the frame will rip open if the pack is to stiff. I did mine that way and it worked great. I also moved the rear hanger to the frame.
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Post by derbyman180 on Jan 18, 2016 10:54:03 GMT -5
The main leaf that connects to the rear shackle busted on the one passenger side. Thats the only reason I was looking to replace and when you moved the rear shackle to under the frame rail did you also move the front one or did you leave it in the factory position?
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Post by flashflud on Jan 18, 2016 20:12:07 GMT -5
I also shortened them. I cut the main leaf in the rear. I measured 12 in from center of the hole. Then slid the end of the main leaf that i cut off in between the top two. I used my clamps to hold it tight. I also blew a hole with the torch and put a bolt in to make sure it wouldn't pull out. I only moved the rear of the spring to the frame. The fronts have enough wiggle to get you there. They will be angled and will make it a little difficult with your u bolts.
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Feb 5, 2016 14:41:59 GMT -5
Okay, building a full weld, no kickers, 78 fury sedan. Should I use a Roscoe front bumper or shocker rear? Home made bumper shocks going back to the a arms, flat stack leafs, corp 14 rear, all seams welded.
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Post by fordpowerforever on Feb 5, 2016 19:16:29 GMT -5
i would use a shocker rear if it doesnt have the whole in the middle over the roscoe bumper
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Feb 6, 2016 3:17:43 GMT -5
I don't think it does, but I'll check.
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Post by blackmopar21 on Feb 8, 2016 14:33:50 GMT -5
Okay, building a full weld, no kickers, 78 fury sedan. Should I use a Roscoe front bumper or shocker rear? Home made bumper shocks going back to the a arms, flat stack leafs, corp 14 rear, all seams welded. Neither. A pointy.
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grinder
Heat Winner
patina
Posts: 281
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Post by grinder on Mar 11, 2016 11:54:13 GMT -5
anyone ever run a full cradle set up in one of these. wondering what the outcome was...thanks
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demoboy333
Feature Winner
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Posts: 3,125
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Post by demoboy333 on Mar 16, 2016 6:46:28 GMT -5
They did at blizzard bash this year. Was a hole team of them.
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Punisher 66J
Feature Winner
F**K WELD CLASS, STOCK IS FOR TRUE DERBY DRIVERS!!!
Posts: 3,789
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Post by Punisher 66J on Mar 23, 2016 21:39:40 GMT -5
I am building a 78 doba double rear frame for the King of the Ring show here in Nebraska. it is only my 3rd show and i am wondering what would be the best for my ass end. floor and trunk pan are perfect, deck lid is perfect. I kinda want to wedge it but i am wanting some input on wether i should go hard and strait or let it roll up. i do not have a rear bumper for the car at this time but i am thinking about running a hard rear if i decide to go hard and strait. Any input would be apreciated. show is a limited weld and i can weld the halo bar to the rear unibody frame. will be running against round backs, vics, caddys, and 2 door shockers. 60 cars one heat. Crash fest express rules. thanks in advace. i have already read the whole thread. Personal opinion on these cars is that they are better going forward, expecially in a full weld situation. I build the ass end for defence and go forward. If you weld all frame seams, weld in k member, hard nose with shocks on side of frame, tie in your cage where you need to it'll be a tuff sob up front. I would move leafs to frame and build it to roll... but hey thats me.
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