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Post by easyfoot on Feb 23, 2015 22:04:51 GMT -5
I have a 73 Ford 3 quarter ton 2 wheel drive I'm going to chain the rearend down should I pull my overload springs and spacers Thanks it's my first truck
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Post by tofer97 on Mar 4, 2015 21:25:10 GMT -5
Any tips on how to get around the '73-'79 ford front ends from caving in? Like when the hood folds under and the fenders spread out and make the truck look like a pug dog.
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Post by RedneckRampage11 on Mar 5, 2015 4:04:05 GMT -5
I have a 73 Ford 3 quarter ton 2 wheel drive I'm going to chain the rearend down should I pull my overload springs and spacers Thanks it's my first truck I would say it depends on how you want to set up the rear of the truck. I like to pull it down to minimum bumper height in the back. & flat leaf it. So if I had over loads, I'd have to remove them to do this. You may not be allowed to go that low it depends on your rules.
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Post by RedneckRampage11 on Mar 5, 2015 4:11:13 GMT -5
Any tips on how to get around the '73-'79 ford front ends from caving in? Like when the hood folds under and the fenders spread out and make the truck look like a pug dog. What kind of rules? Mild weld? Stock? You running a car bumper? Are you running all thread from the frame up through the core support through the hood for front two hood bolts? Body shaping & peening helps. Keeping that bumper height up and smart driving helps the most. You can do all of the above and then some, but it won't help another driver gets over your bumper with a good shot. Even with the full weld rules I build for.
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Post by RedneckRampage11 on Mar 5, 2015 4:16:24 GMT -5
When adapting a 80's gm 4x4 front axle to the front of one of 57-64 trucks, what do you guys use for a steering link from the steering box to the front axle? I have to keep the stock box as no frame mods are allowed or do Chevy boxes fit on pretty easy or what is the going normal? Any help is appreciated. I worked on a buddy's early sixties Ford f350 Derby truck a few times, and he had a Chevy half ton 4x4 diff under the front of his, and it was hooked to the original steering box for the truck with a home made drag link to the original steering arm for that particular Chevy diff, & Seems to work like a charm.
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Post by joker1 on Mar 5, 2015 9:16:50 GMT -5
What front suspension is in a 68-70 ford 2wd f 100 and are these trucks any good in a none weld show???
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Post by tofer97 on Mar 5, 2015 11:36:15 GMT -5
Any tips on how to get around the '73-'79 ford front ends from caving in? Like when the hood folds under and the fenders spread out and make the truck look like a pug dog. What kind of rules? Mild weld? Stock? You running a car bumper? Are you running all thread from the frame up through the core support through the hood for front two hood bolts? Body shaping & peening helps. Keeping that bumper height up and smart driving helps the most. You can do all of the above and then some, but it won't help another driver gets over your bumper with a good shot. Even with the full weld rules I build for. basic pro-mod style rules. nothing extreme, basically what you said would pass like the all thread and raising the front but no penning. running stock ford bumper but i am going to have a bit of strength behind it. 2" steel pipe under the front bumper from frame rail to frame rail. not much luck finding a pointy or shock bumper
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Post by RedneckRampage11 on Mar 5, 2015 14:19:21 GMT -5
What front suspension is in a 68-70 ford 2wd f 100 and are these trucks any good in a none weld show??? Twin I beam, which means there isn't anything but C channel frame rails from engine cross member fwd, they're unpredictable frame will break at the cross member and go to one side or the other... If I was running it in a non weld show, I would protect the front and hit with the back. Here, our rules allow plating, & bracing from the wheels fwd, and trucks hit like imperials. So we use those trucks since we can fix them.
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Post by RedneckRampage11 on Mar 5, 2015 14:21:50 GMT -5
What kind of rules? Mild weld? Stock? You running a car bumper? Are you running all thread from the frame up through the core support through the hood for front two hood bolts? Body shaping & peening helps. Keeping that bumper height up and smart driving helps the most. You can do all of the above and then some, but it won't help another driver gets over your bumper with a good shot. Even with the full weld rules I build for. basic pro-mod style rules. nothing extreme, basically what you said would pass like the all thread and raising the front but no penning. running stock ford bumper but i am going to have a bit of strength behind it. 2" steel pipe under the front bumper from frame rail to frame rail. not much luck finding a pointy or shock bumper In NC Pro-mod means about anything goes. Like a 5ft car. It's funny how the terminology changes depending on what part of the country we live in. Will they let you stuff a bumper then? Like a 80s Vic bumper stuffed would be better than nothing, if ya can't find a 70s GM or Mopar. I'm not sure how well 2in pipe will hold up. But them again I'm basing it off our driving styles here in NC.
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Post by tofer97 on Mar 7, 2015 23:05:21 GMT -5
basic pro-mod style rules. nothing extreme, basically what you said would pass like the all thread and raising the front but no penning. running stock ford bumper but i am going to have a bit of strength behind it. 2" steel pipe under the front bumper from frame rail to frame rail. not much luck finding a pointy or shock bumper In NC Pro-mod means about anything goes. Like a 5ft car. It's funny how the terminology changes depending on what part of the country we live in. Will they let you stuff a bumper then? Like a 80s Vic bumper stuffed would be better than nothing, if ya can't find a 70s GM or Mopar. I'm not sure how well 2in pipe will hold up. But them again I'm basing it off our driving styles here in NC. by our pro-mod it means you can do a lot but it has to stay safe an can't basically be an outlaw style build. I don't really have a lot of resources to work with, I'm just starting out and I wanted something that I felt comfortable in and I've always driven trucks so that's my comfort zone even tho they do hit a bit harder since it's basically frame on frame shots. I can do a little stuffing but all I'm basically gonna do is weld a stock ford bumper skin over the 2" pipe after I shorten the pipe a little then box in the ends and weld plates behind the skin over the pipe.
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Post by RedneckRampage11 on Mar 8, 2015 0:05:21 GMT -5
That's cool, I'd love to see the end results. Hope it works out great for ya.
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Post by tofer97 on Mar 10, 2015 23:15:36 GMT -5
That's cool, I'd love to see the end results. Hope it works out great for ya. well some of the guys I'll be running against know how to build trucks so the end results may be terrible haha but I'm mainly just going out to have fun but be competitive for my first time. After I run July 25th I'll try to put pics on this thread if possible and quote you in it since it's months away
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Post by conley122 on Mar 12, 2015 15:49:43 GMT -5
Wondering if anyone on this thread has ran a 99+ ford f350 frame. Helping a buddy build a weld truck and noticed the crumple zone on the frame horns. My question is, are the vertical dempels in the frame a concern, or can we just leave them be?
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Post by droid250 on Mar 12, 2015 23:37:17 GMT -5
Is a fresh pointy to much bumper for a 62 f100 4x4
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Post by RedneckRampage11 on Mar 13, 2015 1:48:11 GMT -5
leaf sprung front? If so, I would say, when welded on good and solid it's the bumper of choice. Safe bet you'll flatten that pointy before you bent the frame if welded on correctly. Check out jokers truck #14 at Bash last year, and the redneck rumble the year that they ran trucks. His 62Ford truck is nasty with a pointy.
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