|
Post by steelman on Feb 20, 2018 22:17:15 GMT -5
Thanks for the info. I am still looking for one they all dissapeared quick
|
|
|
Post by steelman on Mar 2, 2018 8:09:43 GMT -5
Does anyone know where a fellow could pick up a cheap intake for the carbed version Thanks
|
|
|
Post by cooter8x8 on Mar 6, 2018 19:34:24 GMT -5
In order of importance, Weld motor mounts solid, Weld angle iron onto your tie rods so that they do not bend or break, Weld the diff on the automatic transmissions, Weld the adjustment bolt to the slot for the rear struts so that the hub doesn't lay over, run donuts on rear, tuck/notch trunk, crease the hell out of these cars it really helps, run a bumper of equivalent or greater strength than a steel box ford bumper. Other than the usual welding and universal build tips for compacts you should be good to go if your rules allow all this. Any pics of the motor mounts
|
|
|
Post by steelman on Mar 8, 2018 18:36:01 GMT -5
So wich is stronger a 2 door or four door
|
|
|
Post by dean88 on Mar 9, 2018 11:57:09 GMT -5
I doubt it matters much in a stock to limited weld
|
|
|
Post by steelman on Mar 11, 2018 0:47:29 GMT -5
Gonna be running one in a limited weld and the other will be in a full weld
|
|
boom61
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,666
|
Post by boom61 on Mar 11, 2018 17:48:58 GMT -5
To me with a lot of cars it would depend on rules. If you are only allowed 4 4x4 door plates, that's not enough for a 2 door, they would be spread out too far. If you can go all the way around, a 2 door may be better. Also, cage rules are a huge factor. A lot of rules state that the door bars can only extend past the b pillar or driver seat 6-12in. and with many 2 doors is a lot further back. In many cases you can fudge it a little and get them pretty close to the rear wheel wells which will help with bellying and keeping the rear stronger for a lot longer.
|
|
|
Post by pantera77 on Mar 11, 2018 22:36:42 GMT -5
Does anyone know where a fellow could pick up a cheap intake for the carbed version Thanks I could be wrong, and very well may be, but I believe the CFI intakes are very similar which were used from 85-87. Should be easy to adapt a carb too. To expand on this, if you want to completely delete the EEC-IV, I believe this is the distributor you would need to run: AUTOLINE D4072 That ran through a duraspark box should leave you completely computer less. Or, you could run the TFI dizzy and just lock the timing and remove the computer as well if you want. I ran my car (which was an enduro car originally) on the stock computer, but eliminated everything it controlled but the spark advance, which left me with 3 or 4 wires running to it from the TFI module along with power and ground.
|
|
|
Post by steelman on Mar 12, 2018 14:50:37 GMT -5
I will keep that in mind and thanks guys
|
|
|
Post by steelman on May 25, 2018 16:27:13 GMT -5
Who builds 4 into 1 headers for these
|
|
|
Post by dean88 on May 25, 2018 19:12:14 GMT -5
I've heard a rumor someone chopped up a set of headers for a 2.3 and extended them to fit the intake. Again that's just a rumor I heard from a guy who heard from a lady who was running around with this other guy who had this buddy who claimed to have done it.
But, I dont believe any company actually makes a set that bolts on and goes.
|
|
|
Post by steelman on May 27, 2018 7:13:09 GMT -5
Um considering the bolt pattern is different i dont know how thats possible
|
|
|
Post by bangemharder on Jun 27, 2018 20:55:40 GMT -5
Anybody have an idea how to fix when the car gets hot it has no power but will bounce off the rev limiter and then when it cools drives just fine
|
|
|
Post by Junkyarddog84 on Jun 28, 2018 23:46:54 GMT -5
Anybody have an idea how to fix when the car gets hot it has no power but will bounce off the rev limiter and then when it cools drives just fine Never ran one of these, but sounds similar to when a gm goes into limp mode. To avoid this for ex..in a gm 3100 Leave the temp sensor plugged in and zip tied up in the engine bay and put a pipe plug into the orginal temp sensor port. Then your ecm will read the air temp rather than engine temp when its overheating and trick the computer and will avoid limp mode. Hope this works for you, best of luck 👍
|
|
|
Post by steelman on Jul 23, 2018 12:17:39 GMT -5
Has anyone had a problem snapping the steering wheel off the collumn
|
|