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Post by fillthyanimal75 on Apr 30, 2017 23:30:33 GMT -5
Should i build the trunk to roll in or should i try to build it to not bend or budge?
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Post by cowdoc on May 1, 2017 22:17:19 GMT -5
Should i build the trunk to roll in or should i try to build it to not bend or budge? youre going to get completely differing opinions so here's mine: you have the toughest nosed sob out there so why have the ass packed to the window and bellied out in one heat? Doing nothing of course is bad-whaletail but I always run skin bumpers on a wedge with the ass low so nobody can hit the framerails to make it go up. 23" tires are nice so everybodies bumper clears your tires but dont run very low gear rear if you do.
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Post by fillthyanimal75 on May 2, 2017 13:08:42 GMT -5
Then how can i make there rear tough? And i like your opinion
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hemi1
Feature Winner
Posts: 2,425
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Post by hemi1 on May 3, 2017 8:47:44 GMT -5
IMO,I would build it to roll or pack in nice,since it is a uni body car.This way it takes stress off the frame humps also.If you decide to build the trunk area super strong it will try to bend in the rear floorboard area.
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Post by cowdoc on May 5, 2017 21:57:20 GMT -5
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Post by klicky96 on May 21, 2017 20:52:39 GMT -5
Can anyone tell me the width of a stock rear for a 67 imp? I'm wanting to throw my 10.25 sterling underneath mine but don't want the tires sticking out of the quarters. I'm about 66" to the middle of the tires.
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on May 22, 2017 12:45:35 GMT -5
Thought i posted this somewhere here before. maybe not CHRYSLER IMPERIAL Axle lengths: '65-'66= 30 1/8" '67-'69= 30 5/16" '70-'71= 29" '72-'73= 31 7/16" Housing widths, flange to flange: '65-'66= 57" '67-'69= 57 3/8" '70-'71= 54 3/4" '72-'73= 59 5/8" Rear end widths, drum-to-drum: '65-'66= 61 15/16" '67-'69= 62 5/16" '70-'71= 59 3/4" '72-'73= 64 9/16" copied and pasted from: www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/16.html
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Post by klicky96 on May 22, 2017 19:43:15 GMT -5
Thought i posted this somewhere here before. maybe not CHRYSLER IMPERIAL Axle lengths: '65-'66= 30 1/8" '67-'69= 30 5/16" '70-'71= 29" '72-'73= 31 7/16" Housing widths, flange to flange: '65-'66= 57" '67-'69= 57 3/8" '70-'71= 54 3/4" '72-'73= 59 5/8" Rear end widths, drum-to-drum: '65-'66= 61 15/16" '67-'69= 62 5/16" '70-'71= 59 3/4" '72-'73= 64 9/16" copied and pasted from: www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/16.htmlThank you sir! Looks like it should work alright then. Might stick out a little on each side but I'll get over it.
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Post by roughneck06 on Jul 31, 2017 17:00:40 GMT -5
I seen where someone asked about derby parts lower conversion cradle. Has anyone used it? Seems no one makes a good sbc to mopar cradle anymore.
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Post by roughneck06 on Sept 5, 2017 18:23:36 GMT -5
Is worth to body space the sub? Seen someone mentioned but didn't see how they made out? Thinking 2.5" at firewall. But if doesn't make a difference ill run it tight to the body
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Post by derbyhead1975 on Jun 12, 2018 19:42:19 GMT -5
ive got a 67 imp. first one ive ever ran, how is everyone doing the front 4 mounts? theres no access hole on the bottom part of sub. also, ive read the post, and tipping is mentioned but not really explained much. my rules are a mild/light weld.
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030
Future Icon
Posts: 11
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Post by 030 on Oct 26, 2020 13:08:26 GMT -5
is there any year between 67 and 73 that the imp sub is stronger?
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hemi
Heat Winner
Posts: 300
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Post by hemi on Oct 26, 2020 14:20:35 GMT -5
^ not really.
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030
Future Icon
Posts: 11
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Post by 030 on Jan 13, 2022 17:39:18 GMT -5
Was there any other car that ran the imperial subframe from factory?
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Post by Luke Wells on Jan 13, 2022 21:09:04 GMT -5
Was there any other car that ran the imperial subframe from factory? Nope
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