IMP
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Posts: 324
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Post by IMP on Aug 7, 2011 1:09:53 GMT -5
post all of your 1967-1973 Chrysler Imperial tips/tricks/info/questions in here....
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Post by davidloberg723 on Aug 7, 2011 20:54:09 GMT -5
drive forward and block out reverse ;D
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Post by mike26 on Aug 8, 2011 19:56:25 GMT -5
got a question about a 72 imp I'm building I have a 318 that I want to put down in how do you guys bolt these in these cars? I have a truck oil pan which I know I think I have to switch the pan out how do you guys bolt the small blocks in them I wish I had a big block to put in it but I don't so my 318 is going in it. thanks guys
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Post by davidloberg723 on Aug 8, 2011 22:45:28 GMT -5
talk to dm440c...he had a good explanation if I remember right. I run a sbc, but I believe he said if you have the good spool mounts, leave those on the motor, and you'll have to weld some plate to the mounts from the frame. I'm sure a mopar guy will chime in.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Aug 9, 2011 12:50:46 GMT -5
right on, the stock mounts for '73 and older are pretty bogus and what I do for these cars is use the 74 & up spool mounts on the engine and weld in new receivers to the frame. I'm still trying to figure out how to migrate all my pictures and diagrams from Shutterfly to Photobucket so I can post them on Proboards, but for now I can give you a couple of pics of what it looks like: ...I think you get the idea. It's easiest with the sub out in the open, or at least with the front clip removed. Lower the engine/trans down and line up the transmission mount first putting the crossbolt in place. Then see where the engine mounts line up and weld in your angle iron as shown in the pics.... so that you can put the holes in the right spot and insert the engine mount crossbolts. Pull the engine back out and finish welding the receivers to the frame.
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Post by mike26 on Aug 9, 2011 13:33:14 GMT -5
okay cool thanks dm44c I got it now I have that stuff lol I'll make my own mounts and slap it in thanks again
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Sept 2, 2011 12:21:43 GMT -5
Imp sub swap discussion: it's a bit of work but if you have any fabrication skills it's not that big of a project. The main point I try to make is that it is not a direct bolt-in like some people seem to claim, you will have to do some fabricating to make it work. Personally.... I think it's easier to put an Imp sub in a 74-78 Shocker body than in a Y frame body because of the structure of the floor but that's a different story. One big thing that I also like to point out is that it depends a great deal on your rules as to how easy or difficult the swap is.... this can also dictate whether lining up the rear mounts or the firewall mounts first is your best option. Big or small block engine makes a difference too. Any pictures of the differences in the floors. About to make the happen in a 68 newport this winter. As soon as I get all my parts. No pictures of the floors but I can try to describe.... 74-78 shocker floors are flat underneath and have multiple layers. This makes it easy to blow holes for the rear sub mount anywhere you want and the extra structure of the floor helps hold the new mounts in. Y frame floors have all kinds of contours and they have this whole tab structure that is spot welded to the rockers and is supposed to attach to the rear cross member of either the Y frame sub or the Imp sub. The floors are fairly thin overall with a single layer of sheet steel. Considering the above, I think it is preferable to line up the rear mounts first when putting an Imp sub in a Y frame body. You should still use wide, heavy plate or C channel or kickers or something extra to keep the rear mounts from ripping through the floor. You can still line up at the firewall first but you'll have to torch out all the structure from the tabs that are spot welded to the rockers. Whether you put the sub in a Y frame body or a shocker body you'll have to do some kind of fabricating work for core support mounts since neither core support will line up naturally over any stock mount on the Imp sub. Threaded rod is a no-brainer unless you have rules that do not allow it.... in the latter case you'll have to get inventive. On the debate of lining up first at the rear mounts or first at the firewall mounts, there are plusses and minuses to either strategy. Neither is clearly better than the other and the choice has to be made based on what fits best with your build rules, equipment, engine choice, and to some extent personal preference. I've already given my thoughts on how the two methods work with the choice of Y frame vs. shocker body. Additional considerations include the fact that lining up at the firewall will usually require complete sectioning of the trans tunnel in order to fit the engine in, and this goes extra for a big block. If your rules prevent this and/or if they do not allow a dash bar then I would be very reluctant to go with this method. Also, lining up at the firewall first will require sectioning the whole lower half of the core support since it lines up on top of the beam. Conversely, lining up at the rear mounts first requires a decision to be made about how to do the firewall mounts. The two most popular solutions are to cut the mounts off the sub and re-weld them on further back or to fabricate extensions to the mounts on the body so that they meet the mounts on the sub. My thoughts on this are that the weak link of an Imp sub is the span between the firewall and the control arms, so in my experience creating a longer lever arm here (cutting the mounts and moving them further rearward on the sub) is making the weak link weaker. I've heard from others that say they are happy with the results of this method, I can't speak for what conditions they are dealing with but unless I have some kickers or some kind of direct reinforcement I know it doesn't work for me. One other consideration of lining up the rear mounts first is that the front wheels will sit too far forward in the wheel wells and that the core support will sit too close to the engine. Some individual creativity will be needed to address both of these conditions.
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Post by impala26 on Sept 17, 2011 23:08:22 GMT -5
goin to put a imp sub in a y framer. could you drill threw the frame in back set of body bolts if you start at firewall and drill new holes for the back to body mounts so you would have 4 body bolts at back of sub?
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Post by sbsracing on Sept 18, 2011 18:55:17 GMT -5
It should work fine. I welded 1 inch allthread to the back of my sub and torched holes in my floor. Make sure you use some good size washers or pieces of plate.....
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Post by impala26 on Sept 18, 2011 21:00:09 GMT -5
just got home with sub and now i need to see what i can come up with.
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Post by brad21 on Sept 27, 2011 11:54:16 GMT -5
Can I get some step by steps on building one of these? I've built lots of gm's but never a mopar.
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Post by brad21 on Sept 27, 2011 11:58:11 GMT -5
I'm planning on putting a 383 sbc in it.
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Post by moparfan on Oct 15, 2011 11:53:37 GMT -5
how would one of these hammerheads be if u tipped then?
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Post by derbydriver666 on Oct 15, 2011 17:49:55 GMT -5
ask the Mopar guru.....i ran against his tipped one a few weeks ago
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dm440c
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derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
Posts: 2,824
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Post by dm440c on Oct 17, 2011 11:20:18 GMT -5
I tried it for the first time recently, it was a short run and not enough data to be conclusive. Maybe with some more seat time I can decide how effective it is.
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