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Post by derbyman180 on Jul 24, 2014 10:43:39 GMT -5
If a u joint adapter wont work then wht other model driveshaft could I do to make it work. I can cut and weld 2 together if I have to.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Jul 24, 2014 11:07:25 GMT -5
you will need to shorten the stock shaft anyway because the snout of the 8-3/4 is longer than the c clipper you tossed out. Best plan IMO is mock it up to figure out the length, cut the rear of both shafts off and weld the Newport end onto your dippy shaft at "the correct length".
P.S. GENERALLY SPEAKING I have found that a dippy with a 900 transmission and an 8-3/4 axle is about 52" from center-to-center of the U joint caps. YMMV and don't take my word for it without measuring your own car because they did have a couple different wheelbases
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Post by mike055 on Aug 6, 2014 9:20:52 GMT -5
Is it ok to cut the brake booster for clearance or is it going to screw up my braking? If I had time I would get rid of it, but I don't. If I can't I'm just gonna have to live with the way it is.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Aug 6, 2014 10:13:00 GMT -5
"cut the booster"? I can only guess what you intend to cut, but none of it that I can picture would be a good idea. The vacuum can provides the structure that holds the master in place, so cutting away at the bottom where the damage will happen could very likely cause the master itself to deflect out of position. If you truly don't have time then just run it as it is and whatever happens happens, usual result is that you will have a flattened header tube and a dented valve cover. I've never seen it get this bad but my concern always was that the valve cover would be mashed into the rockers and cause internal problems like bent push tubes etc. I have seen it get bad enough that the valve cover loses its seal and starts dumping oil down the back of the engine. And of course once the header tube gets squashed that cylinder doesn't run so well.
But yeah, if you're out of time then it is what it is.
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Post by mike055 on Aug 6, 2014 10:31:21 GMT -5
Thanks for the timely reply. Valve cover is not a problem in this case, it's the headers. Just didn't know if I could make a relief in the booster. I have no idea of the workings of a booster. I'll just let it be for now, if I do it again I'll definitely get forward dump headers. Thanks again.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Aug 7, 2014 10:22:10 GMT -5
yeah I have to backtrack here a bit, I think I answered your question right after I was discussing Diplomats and I had those on the brain when I typed my previous post BUT after re-reading I see that you never said what kind of car it is you are building. For the other body styles the primary concern is indeed just the headers. Carry on!
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Post by tomcat on Sept 24, 2014 16:12:15 GMT -5
Anyone tried flipping the back shackles on a shocker? Is there a different way to gain height with stock leafs?
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Sept 26, 2014 8:58:27 GMT -5
Anyone tried flipping the back shackles on a shocker? Is there a different way to gain height with stock leafs? how much height do you want to gain
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Augie
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Post by Augie on Sept 26, 2014 10:22:24 GMT -5
Do you guys normally run your rear shackle pointing up towards the trunk floor or have it point straight down towards the ground and then bolt your leaf springs to it?
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Post by tomcat on Sept 28, 2014 13:36:50 GMT -5
As much as possible
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WILSON'S INC.
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Post by WILSON'S INC. on Mar 8, 2015 22:18:27 GMT -5
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Mar 8, 2015 22:33:27 GMT -5
never tried them, imo.... they look awfully short. also they say that they preform well up to 35 degrees. my column is at 35 degrees after 7-8 hits id keep looking
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Post by derby2racer on Mar 9, 2015 1:18:54 GMT -5
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mopar17
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Post by mopar17 on Mar 9, 2015 7:17:06 GMT -5
I run joints real similar to them on two different steering setups. I've never had any trouble with them, but I also mount my dash bars differently in every car to change the steering angle when need be.
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WILSON'S INC.
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Post by WILSON'S INC. on Mar 9, 2015 9:47:16 GMT -5
may be a dumb question, but considering i have welded u-joints to the box i figure i will ask. Is the derby parts u-joint splined at the box?
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