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Post by fordpowerforever on Mar 9, 2015 10:42:29 GMT -5
i have ran them borgeson in many many shockers and have had them bend in every way from great to terrible. I run them with a stock column and i use the one at the box and a small DD slip shaft up to another borgeson joint at the bottom of the column, never had an issue what so ever with them. There a great piece, You can see some of my cars in the shocker thread. Only thing you gotta worry about is the stock column collapse inside themselves so when you pull the front end down the steering wont reach anymore, but that is fixable too.
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Post by fackelberry on Mar 10, 2015 9:54:10 GMT -5
Got a 65 imperial, i don't run back brakes just the front. Was wondering if the front drums brakes are a pain in the azz to make work right or rebuld to work right? Or i read somewhere on here its a direct swap the spindles from a 67-73 imperial that way i could use the disc brakes from that and smaller wheel bolt pattern? has anyone done this swap or just fix the fronts and run the drums that came on it? Thanks for the info guys.
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Mar 10, 2015 19:45:01 GMT -5
67-73 imp spindles are a direct swap with 74-78 c bodies...
I'd rebuild the drums, its not that hard after the first time you've done it. also youve got tons more room with drum brakes. I collect drum spindles because 14" rims won't fit disk brake spindles, a lot of the time i will pull the front calipers and run no front brakes at all when i have not choice but to run as is. a few really good hits to the front axles will mash the rims and lock the wheels against the calipers. im always extremely cautious when running functional front disk brakes.
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dm440c
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derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
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Post by dm440c on Mar 12, 2015 8:03:30 GMT -5
67-73 imp spindles are a direct swap with 74-78 c bodies... I'd rebuild the drums, its not that hard after the first time you've done it. also youve got tons more room with drum brakes. I collect drum spindles because 14" rims won't fit disk brake spindles, a lot of the time i will pull the front calipers and run no front brakes at all when i have not choice but to run as is. a few really good hits to the front axles will mash the rims and lock the wheels against the calipers. im always extremely cautious when running functional front disk brakes. if I could like this post twice, I would. I don't run front brakes on derby cars anymore but back when I did, I would swap the discs over to drums. Much much much better situation than discs.
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boom61
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Post by boom61 on Mar 15, 2015 1:43:34 GMT -5
I have a 66 Valiant, drum fronts, and I'm trying to get different wheel options. Anyone know if there are any other hubs that will fit on the Valiant spindles. If not I'll just end up drilling the correct pattern in different wheels or making centers. Just thought that could be an easy option to get rid of the 5x4 pattern.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Mar 15, 2015 10:11:30 GMT -5
.......I'm fairly certain the dippy discs will fit on the spindles and give you 4.5 on 5. Seems like I did that swap once years ago, memory is fuzzy on the details
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21R
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Post by 21R on Mar 24, 2015 8:45:21 GMT -5
Looked through all 10 pages and didn't see anything about front suspension. Has anyone ever tried to get more height out of their 74-78? Other than tall tires or turning in the torsion bar adjuster? I took the rubber bump stop out and got to looking at the pocket there behind the a arm and it seems to me that if you cut the top of that little steel pocket flush with the top of the frame, it would allow the a arms to drop another inch or so. I'm only curious because since I started tilting these frames( whole nother topic we don't need to get into here- I like it so leave it at that) I'm not getting quite the ride height I want. Any thoughts to this? Pros or cons? One thing I did notice is that it may put a ton if pressure on the upper ball joint but I'm not sure. I can't use aftermarket ball joints so that's not an option either.
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Post by STROMI 121 on Mar 24, 2015 10:30:37 GMT -5
Can you use a moog replacement ball joint? I'm sure they're stronger than a stock one.
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Post by fordpowerforever on Mar 24, 2015 10:58:11 GMT -5
the more pressure you put on the suspension in these the chances of the bottom A arm twisting and buckling seems to go up in my opinion. ive never needed anymore height in them but i never tilted, but i started with 7.00s and cranked torsions back in the day, and the last few i ran was little front tires and a few turns out of maxed out on the torsions.
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21R
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Post by 21R on Mar 24, 2015 13:35:09 GMT -5
Rules just say must be stock balljoints. No aftermarket. Have any of you guys tried using a lower ball joint on top? They are thicker than the top one. I'm thinking the only thing you would have to do is ream the spindle
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Post by STROMI 121 on Mar 24, 2015 22:41:35 GMT -5
How do you tell the difference between a used Nascar moog and a stock one? Just saying....
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Post by STROMI 121 on Mar 24, 2015 22:44:48 GMT -5
What kind of car are you building?
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21R
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Post by 21R on Mar 25, 2015 20:44:35 GMT -5
Honestly, idk. Never seen one. I've never had issues with the stock ball joints on these. And replacing them really hadn't ever crossed my mind. It's a 2dr shocker. Would a balljoints setup like the one you are talking about bolt right in with a shocker a arm setup without any modification at all?
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Post by STROMI 121 on Mar 26, 2015 7:40:12 GMT -5
I'm not a Mopar guy but I'm pretty sure they're just screw in ball joints
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seven1seven
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Post by seven1seven on Apr 6, 2015 20:08:54 GMT -5
Doba gearbox fit a subframe imp? I should know this answer but I'm drawing a dang blank tonight....
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