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Post by seventyonehemicuda on May 18, 2017 20:29:52 GMT -5
My car has the telescoping wheel what's an easy way to keep it in place? Was thinking duct tape pull the entire horn assembly off, there is a small shaft that screws into the very center of the column.( the telescope locking lever connects to it) I tear off the locking bar and tighten the shaft as tight as I can with a pair of vice grips. never had a problem. this will make a whole lot more sense once you have the horn cover off.
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Post by martin113 on May 19, 2017 13:01:41 GMT -5
Ok thanks
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dm440c
Feature Winner
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Post by dm440c on Jun 3, 2017 7:50:41 GMT -5
Steering idler arm hitting oil pain. All other steering is good. Makes steering to the right half way. And all the way left. Any suggustions? I'm out of ideas. some of the cars had an oil pan with a relief for the steering linkage, some didn't. Usually the Y framers had it. I've rarely run into that problem because most of my big blocks came from Y framers in the first place but yeah you'll have to either source the correct pan or bend the steering linkage down to make room.
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Post by otisjr1952 on Jul 21, 2017 9:26:33 GMT -5
I'm new to the whole mopar thing. Picked up a 68 newport and my upper ball joint literally sheared off. What's the best way to fix or repair?
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Post by smash79 on Oct 5, 2017 20:36:27 GMT -5
Anyone have a link to buy a knuckle for the steering box on a 78 Cordoba?
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Post by moparshakesfordmakes on Mar 22, 2018 21:58:13 GMT -5
eliminating the brake booster - take the booster & master off the car, separate them - take off the plate that is between the booster and the firewall - match the master to the big hole in the plate, drill four holes in the plate, bolt the master to the plate - bolt this to the firewall - separate the two halves of the booster, remove the pushrod from both halves - connect the one half to the brake pedal, figure out how much longer it needs to be in order to mate with the master and have the pedal where you want it - measure and cut, splice together - don't forget to put in some kind of stop to keep the pedal from swinging back too far and pulling the rod away from the master
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Post by moparshakesfordmakes on Mar 22, 2018 22:00:33 GMT -5
eliminating the brake booster - take the booster & master off the car, separate them - take off the plate that is between the booster and the firewall - match the master to the big hole in the plate, drill four holes in the plate, bolt the master to the plate - bolt this to the firewall - separate the two halves of the booster, remove the pushrod from both halves - connect the one half to the brake pedal, figure out how much longer it needs to be in order to mate with the master and have the pedal where you want it - measure and cut, splice together - don't forget to put in some kind of stop to keep the pedal from swinging back too far and pulling the rod away from the master does this work on f body boosters? and i cant see your pics is there any way i can get pics of this? booster is gonna smash valve covers headers already out of the way
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Mar 27, 2018 20:44:36 GMT -5
This should work on any car Mopar/Ford/Gm. Just make sure that after you mount the master cylinder back to the firewall. take a moment and measure how long your new push rod needs to be, don't just chop the two in half. and zap them back together. cause its gonna suck if you make it too short by accident. Here's what I did: (After cutting/smashing/bashing/swearing/screaming to harvest the top pin from the booster) cut both rods in half (after measuring) Keep the 2 pieces you need but weld probably overkill, but i slid a small piece of pipe over the joint and welded it to give it some extra strength. Let it cool before you pick it up...
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Post by chryslersdominate17 on Aug 13, 2019 19:49:25 GMT -5
This is probably a stupid question but how would you go about plugging the front brakes off with the proportioning valve?
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Post by chryslersdominate17 on Aug 13, 2019 21:02:06 GMT -5
Nvm got it 👍
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Post by chryslersdominate17 on Aug 13, 2019 22:05:56 GMT -5
Has anyone here bought the kit from speedway to run the solid column and detachable steering wheel? And does this kit give you everything you need ?
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Post by chryslersdominate17 on Aug 13, 2019 22:07:23 GMT -5
Also any pics and extra info is much appreciated
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Landshark007
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Post by Landshark007 on Aug 13, 2019 22:47:45 GMT -5
I run quick steer and detachable wheel but I didn’t buy it new
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Post by smashford on Aug 14, 2019 0:47:23 GMT -5
I run the speedway setup in 70s fords (identical but different knuckle at box) everything but a mount I use c channel to my dash bar. Also I didnt get bolts from the wheel to the disconnect
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Post by chryslersdominate17 on Aug 14, 2019 12:41:00 GMT -5
For some reason can’t upload a pic but yeah I’m close to out of time and I’m running a shocker my first one and I’ve heard the steering has to go and I don’t have time to make one you ran channel from your crossbar down to the fire wall then connected to the column ?
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