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Post by taterjuice on Oct 13, 2015 12:17:08 GMT -5
Sorry bout that. Didn't see that thread.
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Post by scooter24 on Mar 3, 2016 11:43:17 GMT -5
I'm looking at making a combo pedal set-up this year. I found this master cylinder, but it only has a single port outlet: Clicky ClickyFrom what I've read I need a 3/4" bore (running all 4 brakes, drums rear, disks front). I don't believe a single 3/4" bore would be enough to run all 4 brakes, correct? Does anyone have a link for a somewhat affordable tandem master cylinder? Say 60-100 buck dollar range?
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Mar 15, 2016 20:24:22 GMT -5
If you have the room, why not just run 2 of those small master cylinders together. I know a couple of nhra guys that run twin masters as a kinda safety thing.
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Post by scooter24 on Mar 16, 2016 10:30:02 GMT -5
That thought crossed my mind. . . I think this is the one I'm going to go with: Clicky
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Mar 16, 2016 13:33:29 GMT -5
Keep in mind that the double is 10 inches long from flange to tip whereas the single is under 5".
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Post by scooter24 on Mar 17, 2016 5:30:40 GMT -5
I don't really see length being an issue as much as width. It will be reverse mounted the way I have it drawn currently. I just checked the overall dimensions, and the second one I posted is only 3/4" of an inch longer, overall.
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Post by scooter24 on Mar 17, 2016 15:29:29 GMT -5
Ok. Last thought. What about this one? Clicky
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Post by buckoff on May 26, 2016 19:13:52 GMT -5
72 newport.. The pitman arm got bent downward, therefore getting the steering out of wack. I was thinking, while still in car, heating it up and using a jack to bend it up to where it should be, about 3 inches up, and let cool slow. I'm not sure if the pitman arm is cast or forged. Deffinatly don't want to go threw all that and have it break right out of the gate. Any thoughts? Thanks
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Post by fordpowerforever on May 27, 2016 11:00:52 GMT -5
lots of people heat and bend pitman and idler arms. Dont hear of it being an issue. But it just depends if it got hurt at all the first time it bent. Id say go for it.
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Post by buckoff on May 27, 2016 22:05:35 GMT -5
I just did it tonight. Steering is back to normal. All I can ask for. Thanks for input.
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Post by buckoffn22 on Jun 18, 2016 23:02:32 GMT -5
Question if someone can help me out. Just dropped a 66 imperial 440 into a 71 newport. Cranked up torsion nuts . Steering I can turn all the way left with no problems. But turning right only goes half way. Center link is hitting oil pain. Do I need to bend passenger side pitman arm down? Adjust tie road? Bend center link bar? Car is a fresh build car. Running for fig 8's. Any help would help big time
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Post by buckoffn22 on Jun 20, 2016 6:59:06 GMT -5
^^^. Along with the post up top I did. Car was fine before dropping motor in. Realizing what else I did the middle section of cross member was out of car when I cranked up the torsion nuts. Would that cause the torsion bars to roll alil where it would cause the steering hit. Workong on car tonight any help?
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Post by buckoffn22 on Jun 20, 2016 7:01:01 GMT -5
^^^. Along with the post up top I did. Car was fine before dropping motor in. Realizing what else I did the middle section of cross member was out of car when I cranked up the torsion nuts. Would that cause the torsion bars to roll alil where it would cause the steering hit. Workong on car tonight any help?
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Post by nelson22 on Jun 23, 2016 23:15:37 GMT -5
Steering idler arm hitting oil pain. All other steering is good. Makes steering to the right half way. And all the way left. Any suggustions? I'm out of ideas.
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Post by martin113 on May 16, 2017 16:49:18 GMT -5
My car has the telescoping wheel what's an easy way to keep it in place? Was thinking duct tape
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