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Post by fackelberry on May 8, 2015 7:26:41 GMT -5
My 65 Imp has the factory shocks still in it up front, i think wore out for sure. Would you guys save money and run em or just buy some new cheap ones for the better suspension? Or any other suggestions for the shocks? Thanks
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on May 8, 2015 10:20:24 GMT -5
once you jack up the torsion bars the front shocks are irrelevant.
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Post by fackelberry on May 8, 2015 15:50:21 GMT -5
Ok was also wondering that also. Thanks
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Post by NoDakSmack on May 29, 2015 5:25:49 GMT -5
I'm having a hard time visualizing this while figuring out my steering setup.. if I remove the firewall mount of my steering column and chain it to the dash, for an upper fixed point on the column where would I want to add a heim joint at?
Or does the chain hold it well enough without a heim joint
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on May 29, 2015 12:43:02 GMT -5
a simple chain works if you are using a modified stock column. If you are working with an aftermarket style column that is just a single piece of tube, the Heim joint at the dash bar is the way to go.
when using a stock column.... ditch the firewall mount period, cut it off and make the hole in the firewall as large as you can. Ditch the rag joint, weld a u joint to the box coupler, and weld it all together at the right length. Attach the coupler to the box and chain the upper column to the dash bar or existing saddle.
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Post by TeamMASS#16 on May 29, 2015 14:43:37 GMT -5
eliminating the brake booster - take the booster & master off the car, separate them - take off the plate that is between the booster and the firewall - match the master to the big hole in the plate, drill four holes in the plate, bolt the master to the plate - bolt this to the firewall - separate the two halves of the booster, remove the pushrod from both halves - connect the one half to the brake pedal, figure out how much longer it needs to be in order to mate with the master and have the pedal where you want it - measure and cut, splice together - don't forget to put in some kind of stop to keep the pedal from swinging back too far and pulling the rod away from the master I did this for the booster on my dippy but now the pedal is jammed i cant push it in is it because i didnt shorten the two rods enough just can't seem to figure out how
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on May 29, 2015 18:25:54 GMT -5
pinch frame cars are a little different, in stock form they have a pivot link in between the pedal and the booster. You only have to modify the leg between the pivot and the master.
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Post by TeamMASS#16 on May 29, 2015 20:28:18 GMT -5
Ok I took the rod on the pedal side cut it at the spring then welded it to the end of the reservoir rod that has the 1" diameter thing
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on May 30, 2015 6:36:48 GMT -5
yeah you have to keep the pivot linkage in the middle on those ones. You should only have to modify the part that engages the master. If you reduced it to one piece you probably have it at a funky angle and it is in a bind
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Post by TeamMASS#16 on May 30, 2015 11:47:54 GMT -5
Okay im pretty sure thats my problem now ill c if i have a spare one and replace it. Thanks for the help greatly appreciated
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WILSON'S INC.
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I am so sick of resto guys wasting good derby parts.
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Post by WILSON'S INC. on Jul 21, 2015 22:10:11 GMT -5
need some help asap. So, I dropped the coin on the Chrysler u joint from derby parts.com. The box came with a gm pn, 5/8 36 spline etc. anyhow, it doesn't fit on the box of my 68 fury; the splines hit the lip. Obviously I could pound it on and ruin the splines but I would rather not. Other folks I have talked to that ran dobas said it fit on their box. So is the splined portion on the y framers bigger than the dobas/shockers? Or is it just a certain year or??? The stock mopar splined portion didn't appear any different than the other dozen or so I have worked with. Just need some insight before I go cutting and splicing 63 dollars worth of u joint. Thanks in advance.
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Post by XtremeMopar#307 on Jul 21, 2015 23:11:11 GMT -5
need some help asap. So, I dropped the coin on the Chrysler u joint from derby parts.com. The box came with a gm pn, 5/8 36 spline etc. anyhow, it doesn't fit on the box of my 68 fury; the splines hit the lip. Obviously I could pound it on and ruin the splines but I would rather not. Other folks I have talked to that ran dobas said it fit on their box. So is the splined portion on the y framers bigger than the dobas/shockers? Or is it just a certain year or??? The stock mopar splined portion didn't appear any different than the other dozen or so I have worked with. Just need some insight before I go cutting and splicing 63 dollars worth of u joint. Thanks in advance. I just got one from derbyparts.com as well for my shocker... Same issue... Picked one up locally and it fit just fine... I didn't contact derbyparts at all about it but I think someone needs to let them know there parts aren't right... The one I got locally is also 36 spline 5/8 but that one did fit and the derbyparts one is laying on the floor
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WILSON'S INC.
Heat Winner
I am so sick of resto guys wasting good derby parts.
Posts: 779
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Post by WILSON'S INC. on Jul 21, 2015 23:15:46 GMT -5
I sent them an email, we'll see if they respond. Do you happen to have a part number for the one you picked up?
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Post by XtremeMopar#307 on Jul 22, 2015 10:27:21 GMT -5
I'll look tonight
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Jul 23, 2015 7:45:50 GMT -5
all the steering input shafts I have ever messed with on any Chrysler product car or truck from the 60's through the 90's had the exact same engagement. A junkyard u joint welded to the stock slide coupler fits every one every time, never breaks, at virtually no cost.
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