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Post by fordpowerforever on Aug 21, 2015 13:23:17 GMT -5
do not get the yukons, we have a set and bent them twice, they have a great life time warranty, but its not worth the time and messing around between every derby to send them in. we do have agressive derbys and the last one bent real bad at the flange running an SS wheel that got bent bad to, But i dont think bending wise there stronger then stock almost seem weaker, just stronger in the shaft itself.
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mopar17
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,498
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Post by mopar17 on Aug 21, 2015 13:27:07 GMT -5
I'd also stay away from Strange....the first run on a set of 35 splines I twisted them and ended up breaking one a few runs later.
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Aug 21, 2015 22:48:01 GMT -5
I'd love to go with moser axles but they don't make a 30 spline shaft (at least not 30") and i really don't want to have to pull my gears and set them on a new spool. if i come across a 35 spline spool at a swap meet i might go for it. both my axles sheared right at the spool, flanges are all in great shape. i don't know what it was about this 1 particular derby but it just seemed effortless to shear axles.
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Post by jeep318 on Sept 9, 2015 21:13:08 GMT -5
Is there any other u joint that fits the imp case looks like a Chevy truck u joint would fit
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Post by littleblaine on Jan 9, 2016 12:51:48 GMT -5
Have a ?....I have a 77 newyorker and I can't tell what rearends it has in it....the cover doesn't match any of the pictures posted in the diagram...the cover has an octagon type bottom like the 9 1/4 but the top is completely rounded like the 8 1/4....thanks for any input
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ron17t
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,180
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Post by ron17t on Jan 9, 2016 13:54:32 GMT -5
I need to find a limited slip to fit a 1974 fury 8 1/4 rear, what years of carriers will work?
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Jan 10, 2016 18:49:18 GMT -5
8 1/4 is a c clip axle, 8 3/4 axles have removable carriers. any 8 3/4 carrier will fit another 8 3/4 housing. why not just weld up the 8 1/4?
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Post by buckoff on Feb 4, 2016 18:21:21 GMT -5
72 Newport has an 8 1/4. Spider gears are welded in the corners, where gears meet. I gernaded it first run last year. Put new spider gears in, welded the corners again and got same result 2 shows later. Need opinions on A) put new gears in and weld side gears to carrier, like I've seen on here, and try again or B) don't waste my time and put 8 3/4 sure grip under it, that's currently in another car. Any advice appreciated. Thanks
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Post by fordpowerforever on Feb 4, 2016 18:49:35 GMT -5
i would waste anytime on a 8 1/4" if you have access to a 8 3/4", but i also wouldnt wanna run a sure grip. Weld the gears to each other, weld the gears to the case and eveything, you can even cut a small piece of steel to fit in the middle and weld everything to that. Ive welded up spider gears that were tore up bad and had them hold again. But if you have access to another set it would be easier. and make sure your burning your weld in not just globbing it on top.
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Feb 5, 2016 21:39:25 GMT -5
"Old Bolt Method" This is how I do mine: ...
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dm440c
Feature Winner
derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
Posts: 2,824
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Post by dm440c on Feb 7, 2016 9:51:56 GMT -5
It's covered in the tips thread a few times but DON'T weld the cross pin in the center, allow it to float as this takes up the runout of the axles from side-to-side and it's important because it helps distribute thrust load from wheel hits. Just weld the spiders to each other.
I couldn't begin to count the number of spiders I've welded up over the years but I could count the number of failures on one hand with fingers left over, so it is possible and either you've got some serious $hit luck or your method needs some adjustment. Use enough heat to penetrate and take your time, you might be getting them too hot. Weld one corner then go diagonal and weld the opposite corner, then walk away and do something else for a while. Come back and weld the other two, walk away. Come back and flip it around to repeat for the last two sets.
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Post by buckoff on Feb 8, 2016 18:11:58 GMT -5
Appreciate the input guys. So far this is the only rearend that hasn't held for me. And yes I do have sh*t luck haha! I do like the rectangular piece cut to fit inbetween you both mentiond! On another note, I've always welded them while still in car and none of my welded diffs have looked as good as the pic above. I think I'll try yanking it out this go around. Thanks
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Post by mtnman26 on Mar 12, 2016 16:11:48 GMT -5
this may have been covered but i missed it. i have a 489 case with a sure grip and stock gears. i also have a 741 case open diff and stock gears. can i swap the open carrier from the 741 case into the 489 case in exchange for the sure grip? i wanna weld the spiders. i also wanna get a deeper gear so if i can swap them would i still get gears for the 489 case? or should i just run the sure grip? kinda wanted to save it for a hot rod but anyway thanks for the help in advance.
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Post by littleblaine on Mar 12, 2016 19:06:02 GMT -5
Need some information on yokes. I have a 8 3/4....it's a "471"...I need a yoke to bolt my slider too. Did they make stock yokes for that application? Or do I have to buy a nerat one? I'm a mopar noob never really dealt with them. Thanks in advance
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Post by fordpowerforever on Mar 12, 2016 23:52:16 GMT -5
Need some information on yokes. I have a 8 3/4....it's a "471"...I need a yoke to bolt my slider too. Did they make stock yokes for that application? Or do I have to buy a nerat one? I'm a mopar noob never really dealt with them. Thanks in advance It's either 741, 742, or 489 case. But all cases use the same yokes. Nothing came stock with a slider style flat flange. You will have to go aftermarket, but you will need to know if your pinion has find or coarse spline. So just pull your factory yoke and see if it has like ten large splines or 29 fine splines.
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