hemi1
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Post by hemi1 on Aug 10, 2012 12:52:33 GMT -5
edelbrocks have worked awsome for us right out of the box.I've actually had good luck with edelbrock,carters,thermoquads,and holleys.
On a stock 440 I wouldn't use any bigger than a 600 cfm,a built 440 can use more fuel with cam and compression change.Also depends on rearend gears,tire size and desired RPM you choose to run.
Ya need all the parts to work together to make it run the best.
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dm440c
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derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
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Post by dm440c on Aug 13, 2012 11:35:16 GMT -5
we'll skip the discussion about volumetric efficiency for now but..... the really really short version is that you can get anything from 350 CFM to 850 CFM to work just fine on a 400 engine... and then some.... and the reason I picked those numbers is it represents the full range of CFM you could get from the factory.
optimum tuning tends to be a difficult target to hit on road cars and derby cars with carburetors because the demands have such a wide range. With that in mind I usually take the point of view that I just want to shoot for a point in the middle of the road rather than trying to be perfect.
I recall a great article in Hot Rod years ago where they took an 800 CFM carb to the dyno and tuned it razor sharp on a 200,000 mile 318 just to prove a point.... a lot of guys talk about carbs being "too big" or "too small" without really understanding how these things work. I say a 500 CFM Edelbrock on a stock piston 400 will work just fine... and so will a 2 bbl facotry carb... and so will an 850 Thermoquad...
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Post by richens18 on Aug 15, 2012 11:56:49 GMT -5
I have a 62 361 out of a Newport. And its sat for awhile and got some condensation down the Carb and through them 2 stupid holes that go through the heads into the chamber. Anyway so I took the heads off and one of the Intake valves was open. So I soaked them in some mistery oil a fiew days. Then tapped the pin on the top and Sam she went back into place. Should I worrie about this happening again? or should I replace the valve ?
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Post by twisted66 on Aug 16, 2012 11:10:16 GMT -5
What's the recommended plug gap for a big block with points ignition. I'm gonna try an accell super stock coil if that makes any diff.
Thanks Ryan
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Aug 16, 2012 11:14:02 GMT -5
depends on how picky you are about engines. It probably has a fair amount of rust in the guides and along the stems, I've seen this sort of thing on a 383 once before and after getting it running it was fine.... but that doesn't mean it is always "fine". It could lead to a catastrophic failure. So either have the heads rebuilt or chance it, depends on what kind of gambler you are
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Post by richens18 on Aug 16, 2012 11:34:55 GMT -5
Ok so I went down and got a valve spring compressor. And by the way this was a pain in the ... but you we're right, rust in the guides and stems. So I took some Emery Cloth to them. And also the valve and seat, going to put it all back together with some good lube. Fingers are crossed! Thanks!
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Black333
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I might suck at this more than you but, you never know
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Post by Black333 on Aug 16, 2012 12:38:26 GMT -5
Ok so I went down and got a valve spring compressor. And by the way this was a pain in the ... but you we're right, rust in the guides and stems. So I took some Emery Cloth to them. And also the valve and seat, going to put it all back together with some good lube. Fingers are crossed! Thanks! I would atleast lap the valves in since you have it apart and are not going to have a valve job done. a non sealing valve and you will be pulling the heads again. just my opinion.
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Post by richens18 on Aug 16, 2012 14:55:04 GMT -5
I was thinking about lapping them. But with the heads setting flat on the table I filled Them up with some mistery oil, and no leaks. So what do you think ? Just don't want to spend to much if I don't have too. And can you use the steel head gaskets again? Thanks
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Post by richens18 on Aug 16, 2012 16:04:28 GMT -5
Also just noticed the water ports on the heads don't match the ones on the block. Can I drill ? Or which do I drill block or head this is weard no wonder it got hot so quick. Thanks
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Post by Imperialist on Aug 16, 2012 18:56:55 GMT -5
Ha... Look at your gaskets...
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Post by richens18 on Aug 17, 2012 0:17:47 GMT -5
ya you can see the rust spot where the port should have been. so I ran the numbers on the heads and they mached the block
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Aug 20, 2012 11:38:28 GMT -5
some ports are intentionally blocked by the head gaskets. The cavities still fill with coolant but the flow is calculated to work the way that it does so that it is balanced front, back and middle..... I suggest leaving it alone
The rust you see in the jackets is probably an indication that you should knock the freeze plugs out of the block and power wash the crud out
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Post by richens18 on Aug 21, 2012 11:24:28 GMT -5
Ok so I probably screwed myself bye drilling the block out then? And will do on those freeze plugs Thanks
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L7
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Post by L7 on Sept 7, 2012 13:42:31 GMT -5
So I got bored last night and decided to start reading this thread and the smb thread to. What's better?
There seems to be more sbm at a reasonable price to buy. But the bbm there is only like 5 in my surrounding area on craigslist, I've searched up to 150 miles, at a decent price...under $500.
I'm wondering bc I'm thinking about trying to build up a motor and after reading this thread who wants to build a sbc lol ;D
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Post by XtremeMopar#307 on Sept 7, 2012 23:55:21 GMT -5
honestly id rather run a big block but after 3 different ones and being out of running cars im switching over to a 360... come up to ND, I got a good running 400/727 with one run on it that you could take home for $300.... these things will eat a chevy tho, everyone by me preaching chevy to me but I dare to be different... heres a 383 i ran, best motor I've ever ran by far www.youtube.com/watch?v=qeeQlmZeO5Qwww.youtube.com/watch?v=s82AYYcKzwsgood luck getting that sound and power out of a stock chevy with stock 2.76 gears
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