wedge head big blocks produced from 1959-1978
There is an ID pad to help identify the engine.
for this particular example, the "C" means 1967 model and the "440" is the displacement. Other markings can provide clues about production date, oversize bores, undersize crank, etc.
B engine:
350, 361, 383, 400
ID pad found here:
RB engine:
413, 426, 440
ID pad found here:
Basic thoughts on the big blocks: tough tough tough engines, big power and love heat. One of the best engineered V8 engines for demo derby purposes and pretty good for other applications too
. Timing chain is a must, I don't care how good it seems to run. This gear came out of a 400 that ran perfectly:
I've pulled some out of running engines that were worse than that even... missing close to half their teeth. It won't take much stress to shear off a few more and so the smart thing to do is change it out for a replacement metal gear. A single roller set is fine, as long as you get rid of that factory nylon gear.
Use a 2.2L K car oil filter and wrap it with duct tape and old seatbelts
oil dipstick tube is in a horrible location, not a whole lot you can do about it though. After a couple of runs most of mine get plugged off at the base of the block.
Spark plugs are vulnerable to getting broken off, space the engine up to get it away from steering components especially in an Imperial
for stock shows the A/C compressor makes for a fairly effective distributor protector
up to 1972 the lower rad hose is on the driver's side, after that it is on the passenger's side. Water pumps are interchangeable if you need to though
Intakes and distributors swap only within family- B to B or RB to RB. For newer 400's with Lean Burn or electronic ignition if you want to run points just ask for a distributor for a 1969 383. For newer 440's ask for one for a 1969 440.
Wedge heads are interchangeable between all big blocks, as are exhaust manifolds, water pumps, oil pumps, oil pans, timing covers
cranks can be swapped within family or between families with extra machine work
400's and early 70's thru 1978 440's had cast cranks, all others had forged cranks
(exact year of 440 changeover is mixed and frequently debated. Personally I've never seen a 1972 440 with a cast crank and I've never seen a 1975 440 with a forged crank. I've heard stories to the contrary but haven't seen it with my own eyes.... take it for what it's worth). Cast cranks use a weighted torque converter and forged cranks use a neutral torque converter
1967 & earlier are closed chamber heads, 1968 & later are open chamber
NO the stock exhaust manifolds cannot be flipped. For most types, the flange hits the valve cover and the main section interferes with the spark plugs.
various accessory brackets can be a real pain to work with since they changed them around every other year, and mixing and matching mostly creates a lot of headaches. Try to keep a factory set together or be prepared to fight with it is the best advice I have. Or just run nothing but a single belt from the crank to the water pump ;D
I like headers with a 1-7/8" primary tube for the big blocks.