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Post by JoJo Davis on Aug 2, 2012 20:59:23 GMT -5
Ive learned a couple things about shockers so far. They have way too many bolts holding the front clip together and do not pull the transmission crossmember out with pressure on the torsion bars....lol You dang right on the bolting of the front clip....never had the joy of the crossmember experience though...
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Post by STROMI 121 on Aug 2, 2012 21:01:54 GMT -5
how do you pin the frame i wanna do this but not sure were to begin I know this one.....here is a picture of how we do it.
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Post by STROMI 121 on Aug 2, 2012 22:09:30 GMT -5
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Post by derbydriver666 on Aug 2, 2012 22:14:28 GMT -5
oh no ....... a Stromi Chrysler
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Post by STROMI 121 on Aug 3, 2012 6:23:31 GMT -5
oh no ....... a Stromi Chrysler My first visit to the dark side.
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Post by JoJo Davis on Aug 3, 2012 7:00:44 GMT -5
That car looks familiar Cant wait to see it run
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Post by STROMI 121 on Aug 3, 2012 8:06:31 GMT -5
Its going to be one of those JM Productions "outlaw" cars lol
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dm440c
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derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
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Post by dm440c on Aug 3, 2012 10:34:12 GMT -5
Ive learned a couple things about shockers so far. They have way too many bolts holding the front clip together, getting to the motor mount bolts sucks, and do not pull the transmission crossmember out with pressure on the torsion bars....lol too funny.... yep that's a couple of them, be prepared to learn a lot more of them before you're through with the first one... A couple of years ago another GM guy built and ran his first Chrysler, afterwards he called me and said "that was so easy! Now I see why you guys run them, they are way easier to build than a GM!". After I got over my surprise, I told him to keep building them, he just got lucky the first time but the more you run them the more you find out how little you knew when you started. In that regard though it's no different than starting with anything, but you have to have your mind right and be willing to face a learning curve. Anyhow... I guess I didn't explain it very well in my last post, but yes you can just drop a 318 into the receivers where a big block used to be using the '74 & up 318 mounts. No you can't use big block uppers on a small block engine. It's not the mounts themselves that make the position in the chassis different, it is the receivers on the frame... the frames are actually different depending on big or small block. Yes a 318 will sit back closer to the firewall in a big block chassis than it does in a small block chassis (you can cut a hole for the distributor or hammer the firewall back to make room). JM requires the body rubbers to stay in so that will buy you a little extra space anyway. The extra space around the radiator from the engine sitting back further will buy a little room for you guys who like to use engine mounted fans. Yes you will have to modify the steering crosslink, some guys cut and re-weld it to make room and some guys heat the pitman arm /idler arm / and/or the crosslink itself and bend down to make room. Yes you will have to modify the trans crossmember because the trans mount hole will be in the wrong spot. I don't see a need to change engine height but you can if you disagree. I think that covers it all... by the way, when it comes to the bolts I have the opposite reaction- when I take a front clip off a Ford or GM I say "holy crap, I can't believe they use so few bolts to hold this together, no wonder these front clips are so weak!"
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Post by STROMI 121 on Aug 3, 2012 10:39:06 GMT -5
What about the pullies hitting the crossmember when it noses? I read that in a previous comment on this thread.
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Post by STROMI 121 on Aug 3, 2012 11:23:52 GMT -5
A couple of years ago another GM guy built and ran his first Chrysler, afterwards he called me and said "that was so easy! Now I see why you guys run them, they are way easier to build than a GM!". His doctor must have him on some good meds A 71-76 Gm is the easiest derby car to build....IMO
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mopar17
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Post by mopar17 on Aug 3, 2012 12:28:01 GMT -5
A couple of years ago another GM guy built and ran his first Chrysler, afterwards he called me and said "that was so easy! Now I see why you guys run them, they are way easier to build than a GM!". His doctor must have him on some good meds A 71-76 Gm is the easiest derby car to build....IMO I've got to agree!
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Aug 6, 2012 10:32:59 GMT -5
A 71-76 Gm is the easiest derby car to build....IMO I mostly agree, although I think you could argue that a 67-73 Imperial is a little faster start to finish once you are familiar with the big ticket items to build either. But yeah, for your prototypical stock class derby the 74-76 big GM's are virtually a no-brainer to throw together and be competitive. what were we talking about in this thread? oh yeah, 74-78 tips... on the crossmember deal... it's not typically a problem I have with the C body cars. Diplomats is a different story though. On the C body cars the sway bar is definitely a concern and on the big block ones the crossmember can get very close to the oil filter but typically the crank pulley seems to have just enough room to skate by. That's been my experience anyway, maybe I've just been lucky
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Post by mopar400 on Oct 5, 2012 12:47:35 GMT -5
What exactly is a frame pin? Is that a bolt or something that pins the sub connected to the sub frame?
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Oct 8, 2012 10:42:34 GMT -5
What exactly is a frame pin? Is that a bolt or something that pins the sub connected to the sub frame? usually when someone talks about "pinning the frame" they are talking about something they added, not a stock feature. Basically you weld a metal rod inside the frame rail to add strength.... it can be done with any car, it is not particular to one type of car
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Punisher 66J
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Post by Punisher 66J on Nov 6, 2012 1:00:30 GMT -5
Has anyone ever ridged mounted the leafs on one of these? I thought about not using the shackles and just bolting leafs straight to frame.
Also - if anyone has a decent interior for a 75 imp please PM me.
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