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Post by chryslersdominate17 on Apr 24, 2022 0:45:43 GMT -5
im working on a 78 2 dr new yorker this year and it has the floor pan delete kit right behind the front seat that ties into the front of the rear sub. i know floor strength is a huge in unibody cars. i will be uploading pics alot more frequently when i get my new computer. ive read and read through this thread and other threads and unless im missing it, it hasnt been talked about much. i know guys on here dont like repeating themselves and i completely understand that. couple of my ideas were cutting out the floor of another car and welding it in there. or maybe getting a little bit thicker metal, welding it in then drilling and running a big bolt through the sub to maybe give it a little extra strength. so i guess my question is could anyone point me a direction, pm me some pics, or have any other better ideas on how to fix it properly to ensure there will be strength there. also i will be finishing off a pre ran 78 4 door and we took the body mounts out sucked the sub tight and had way better results than the first sub. but the issue i have now is i cant run a tranny protector and the transmission is butted up with the firewall and starting to belly out the whole car. im afraid on busting a bellhousing or something but i feel like it makes the front end tougher because its pressuring the whole car to bend. i read through the pressuring section on the general board i think it was. should i leave the tunnel alone, make a relief cut, or cut it out. i hate cutting something like that out knowing it makes it tougher. thanks in advance!.
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owen11x
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Post by owen11x on Apr 27, 2022 6:08:09 GMT -5
To part one, absolutely add new thicker steel on both sides. Lesve the rusty stuff and bolt it through that rear uni body rail then weld it all the way around. More is best. Part to is a tough one, straighten the car back out best you can go past level 9 wire everything up.to cage and i hate to say id make a relief cut or you will be busting that tailshaft and or bellhousing
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Post by car185 on Jul 7, 2023 13:19:25 GMT -5
I am curious to hear some opinions from guys that have ran quite a few shockers…
An old timer that ran a lot of shockers told me that he preferred to run them with working suspension and no down tubes to the sub frame.
He claims that the flex always seemed to help them. He also said that he rarely changed body mounts but when he did, he made sure that there was still rubber hockey pucks there to allow for flex.
What is everyone’s opinion? Torsion bars cranked up all the way with an arms welded down? Down tubes to the frame or would 9 wire from the cage down be a better option to allow flex? Working suspension?
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owen11x
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Ford makes it, Chevy shakes it, Mopar breaks it!
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Post by owen11x on Jul 7, 2023 15:43:11 GMT -5
Suck sub tight. No body pucks. They will still flex and torsion bars will hold it and help rebound it until the sub puckers. Always hit square with a shocker. No using your corners. I like my down bars welded to the floor and the sub especially in the back because it always wants to pull the sub out at the back. Never run your torsion bars all the way up either you will break a ball joint every time. Never go over 3/4 way up with the adjuster. Plate the bottom side of the lower control arm. Weld in your strut bars in front of the sub and where they meet lower control arms and strap your uppers to the sub forward as far as you can. Ask anything else I'm an open book to help mopars compete
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Post by chryslersdominate17 on Aug 24, 2023 0:41:50 GMT -5
i agree with owen, first one i ran i left the pucks in and took some hard shots to the right side and it junked my sub. switched to no pucks and made a huge difference. owen is also right though no corner shots especially if ur running a pointy and they dont like head ons either. i would run downtubes if ur rules allow.
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Post by tate81 on Mar 6, 2024 13:26:44 GMT -5
Suck sub tight. No body pucks. They will still flex and torsion bars will hold it and help rebound it until the sub puckers. Always hit square with a shocker. No using your corners. I like my down bars welded to the floor and the sub especially in the back because it always wants to pull the sub out at the back. Never run your torsion bars all the way up either you will break a ball joint every time. Never go over 3/4 way up with the adjuster. Plate the bottom side of the lower control arm. Weld in your strut bars in front of the sub and where they meet lower control arms and strap your uppers to the sub forward as far as you can. Ask anything else I'm an open book to help mopars compete I've got a few questions for you. Could you reach out to me on Facebook by chance to make messaging easier? My name is Jake Tate, from Kasota, MN.
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owen11x
Feature Winner
Ford makes it, Chevy shakes it, Mopar breaks it!
Posts: 2,579
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Post by owen11x on Mar 7, 2024 6:00:13 GMT -5
I don't have Facebook pm me on here I can send ya my number unless I can answer them on here for ya
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