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Post by martin113 on Oct 16, 2016 15:07:56 GMT -5
What are some tips on stock class shocker fronts? No welding 6 hood bolts.going to add some bolts to the fenders and run bigger washers on the sub frame mounts. Any other tips or places I should look at
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mopar17
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Posts: 1,498
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Post by mopar17 on Oct 16, 2016 21:35:16 GMT -5
I was just looking for specific information 2 bolts here 3 bolt here, lift here, push here, make sure you do this before that kind of stuff. like when I tell a guy how to change a cam I don't say well just pull the old one out and put the new one in.... distributors, intakes, valve covers rockers, push rods, ect, the entire front half of the motor comes off as well as the radiator and grill have to come out there are steps that must be followed in order to complete the task. guess I'll just figure this one out on my own. That's the beauty of this sport.....if you're not using a torch you really can't screw it up beyond repair. Try it, if it doesn't work you know better next time.
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mopar17
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,498
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Post by mopar17 on Oct 16, 2016 21:36:31 GMT -5
What are some tips on stock class shocker fronts? No welding 6 hood bolts.going to add some bolts to the fenders and run bigger washers on the sub frame mounts. Any other tips or places I should look at What's your definition of stock? Some places stock is still all the fabricated braces you can buy at your local Walmart.
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Post by martin113 on Oct 17, 2016 15:49:16 GMT -5
Lower engine cradle firewall cut out if you run a DP, reinforced tie rods 2 3/4 all thread in the front that's about it
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Post by kennyg on Nov 7, 2016 21:55:01 GMT -5
How would a small block 350 with a 400 long shaft tranny fit in a 77 Newport? If I get a metal bell housing for the tranny would I have to cut any of the tranny tunnel out or could I Just set it down on it. I cant run a tranny protector but I can run a metal bell housing.
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Nov 8, 2016 1:12:43 GMT -5
If you are pulling the body mounts it will be really tight, expect to modify tunnel.
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Post by kennyg on Nov 8, 2016 16:14:18 GMT -5
sorry got leave body mount in
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Post by bluredvision on Nov 12, 2016 13:05:41 GMT -5
Has anyone ever flipped a pointy on a shocker?
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mopar17
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,498
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Post by mopar17 on Nov 12, 2016 21:39:42 GMT -5
Has anyone ever flipped a pointy on a shocker? Unless it sits like a Vic I wouldn't even think about it.
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Post by STROMI 121 on Nov 14, 2016 12:20:33 GMT -5
It would make a nice ramp right to your radiatir support.
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Post by bluredvision on Nov 15, 2016 22:51:27 GMT -5
I thought it may slow it from nosing.
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Post by martin113 on Dec 21, 2016 22:10:45 GMT -5
Just curious what are ppl doing with the rear wheel wells? Leaving them alone cutting them? I have been cutting and rolling them for wheel clearance
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Post by triplerracer on Dec 22, 2016 19:32:34 GMT -5
Just curious what are ppl doing with the rear wheel wells? Leaving them alone cutting them? I have been cutting and rolling them for wheel clearance I always cut them then fold them up them bolt it all together. Does it help? Hard to say but it gives me peace of mind it won't get into my tires.
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Post by kennyg on Dec 27, 2016 23:00:49 GMT -5
I'm hard nosing my 77 Newport. Should I put the shocks on top or on the sides or no shocks at all? I read this site from beginning to the end and there are three different ways and I want to know the best way. Also, has anybody ever porta powered the torching bars to the inside of the frame and welded them? I see a lot of people talking about how the frame bends at the rubber puck.
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Post by cowdoc on Dec 28, 2016 20:46:50 GMT -5
I'm hard nosing my 77 Newport. Should I put the shocks on top or on the sides or no shocks at all? I read this site from beginning to the end and there are three different ways and I want to know the best way. Also, has anybody ever porta powered the torching bars to the inside of the frame and welded them? I see a lot of people talking about how the frame bends at the rubber puck. I'm thinking the torsion bars will break if you weld them.
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