mopar17
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Post by mopar17 on Sept 1, 2016 10:03:57 GMT -5
Leave em'!
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Punisher 66J
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F**K WELD CLASS, STOCK IS FOR TRUE DERBY DRIVERS!!!
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Post by Punisher 66J on Sept 1, 2016 15:41:21 GMT -5
I just ran a 2 door 74 NewYorker last weekend and have to say I'm very disappointed. The front clip was welded firewall forward, the flat 74 no hole bumper was completely welded, but not stuffed and I had 4 extra bolts holding the tranny crossmember to the body. The front bumper sheared off the shocks directly behind the 2 bolt bumper flange. The flanges are still welded to the bumper but the tubes are sheared off. The frame went back down and out in front of the a arm on the passenger side, and back and toward the motor in front of the a arm and bellied between the firewall and tranny mount. The engine crossmember turned into a big V and ripped the passenger side mount. It was a county fair and a pretty short heat ( maybe 15 minutes ) This isn't my first rodeo, and I typically build Y framers or GM, but I've got a few shockers in the stable right now, so I figured I'd try one. The uber cool no hole flaty bumper looks like a reverse pointy now and the car was junk after the heat. I have to wonder what I missed. The car was 95% rust free with just some rust around the break booster on the firewall. If the bumper came off all bets are off as to how it will bend. You always have to reweld the shock pad to the shock. We started hard nosing them with the shocks and that solves all those problems. Good luck with your next shocker build. Yep this is what I do as well. I shorten the shocks to right where the frame curls inwards and hard nose bumper to the frame.
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Punisher 66J
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F**K WELD CLASS, STOCK IS FOR TRUE DERBY DRIVERS!!!
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Post by Punisher 66J on Sept 1, 2016 15:42:30 GMT -5
What are ppl doing with the inner fenders? Take out or leave in I leave them and would never ever and I mean EVER take them out LOL. If you can weld them to the fender all the way around. If not add some bolts at least. They tend to bend weird for me and get into the tires if I don't.
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Post by martin113 on Sept 7, 2016 14:27:07 GMT -5
What are ppl doing with the rear bumper shocks? Leave out or collapse and weld. Building for a stock show also planning on tucking the trunk lid
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Punisher 66J
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F**K WELD CLASS, STOCK IS FOR TRUE DERBY DRIVERS!!!
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Post by Punisher 66J on Sept 7, 2016 14:54:39 GMT -5
What are ppl doing with the rear bumper shocks? Leave out or collapse and weld. Building for a stock show also planning on tucking the trunk lid I have seen it done both ways, personally I have never done anything to them and just leave them alone.
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Post by chadcline22 on Sept 9, 2016 9:07:38 GMT -5
What are ppl doing with the rear bumper shocks? Leave out or collapse and weld. Building for a stock show also planning on tucking the trunk lid It all depends how you're setting your trunk up. Do you want it to stay straight for a while and then whaletail? Do you want it to fold faster but be more consistent and roll in before eventually whaletailing? Lots of variables to consider. Me personally I built them to roll in the rear. Seemed to last longer overall and be more consistent. Rules play a big role in how to set it up. Post up your rules and we can give you better input.
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Post by bluredvision on Sept 11, 2016 14:51:35 GMT -5
Do a shocker Newport and Shocker New Yorker have the exact same sub frame?
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Post by martin113 on Sept 11, 2016 16:47:37 GMT -5
What are ppl doing with the rear bumper shocks? Leave out or collapse and weld. Building for a stock show also planning on tucking the trunk lid It all depends how you're setting your trunk up. Do you want it to stay straight for a while and then whaletail? Do you want it to fold faster but be more consistent and roll in before eventually whaletailing? Lots of variables to consider. Me personally I built them to roll in the rear. Seemed to last longer overall and be more consistent. Rules play a big role in how to set it up. Post up your rules and we can give you better input. It's for a stock show. Would like to get it to roll
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Punisher 66J
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F**K WELD CLASS, STOCK IS FOR TRUE DERBY DRIVERS!!!
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Post by Punisher 66J on Sept 14, 2016 15:40:41 GMT -5
Do a shocker Newport and Shocker New Yorker have the exact same sub frame? Yes unless a police package but ultimately yes. SOME will argue though that the year matters. I have a guy I know that tries like hell to always get 74s.
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Post by bluredvision on Sept 22, 2016 19:19:30 GMT -5
Anyone willing to give advice on how to pull a shocker front clip? looks complicated. I never did before. actually I have never pulled a clip off a car. any tips would be appreciated.
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Post by chadcline22 on Sept 23, 2016 13:58:41 GMT -5
Do a shocker Newport and Shocker New Yorker have the exact same sub frame? Yes unless a police package but ultimately yes. SOME will argue though that the year matters. I have a guy I know that tries like hell to always get 74s. Some 74's, mainly Imperials, have internal plates behind the a-arms. They also have a small gusset off the front of the a-arms. I personally have had horrible luck with 74's. Accordioned two of them in front of the a-arms. I've never seen enough difference to seek out any year over another except for the bumpers.
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pb413
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Post by pb413 on Sept 23, 2016 15:19:03 GMT -5
Anyone willing to give advice on how to pull a shocker front clip? looks complicated. I never did before. actually I have never pulled a clip off a car. any tips would be appreciated. Take fenders and hood off.Take Steering and Brake lines loose.Support the body up at the firewall,buzz the Four body mount bolts at the firewall and Two under the front seat and roll it out.
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Post by bluredvision on Sept 24, 2016 0:25:04 GMT -5
Is breaking it down piece by piece the only way? I was under the impression that you could some how unbolt the front body/core support mount and unbolt rears of the fenders from the front of the fire wall and remove the entire rad support, and fenders in one piece.
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Punisher 66J
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F**K WELD CLASS, STOCK IS FOR TRUE DERBY DRIVERS!!!
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Post by Punisher 66J on Sept 24, 2016 18:58:49 GMT -5
Is breaking it down piece by piece the only way? I was under the impression that you could some how unbolt the front body/core support mount and unbolt rears of the fenders from the front of the fire wall and remove the entire rad support, and fenders in one piece. Yep that is how you do it so why are you asking?
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Post by bluredvision on Sept 24, 2016 21:41:10 GMT -5
I was just looking for specific information 2 bolts here 3 bolt here, lift here, push here, make sure you do this before that kind of stuff. like when I tell a guy how to change a cam I don't say well just pull the old one out and put the new one in.... distributors, intakes, valve covers rockers, push rods, ect, the entire front half of the motor comes off as well as the radiator and grill have to come out there are steps that must be followed in order to complete the task. guess I'll just figure this one out on my own.
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