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Post by STROMI 121 on Dec 29, 2016 11:51:53 GMT -5
That was my first thought as well. Not a good idea to weld spring steel.
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Dec 29, 2016 23:06:08 GMT -5
I'm hard nosing my 77 Newport. Should I put the shocks on top or on the sides or no shocks at all? I read this site from beginning to the end and there are three different ways and I want to know the best way. Also, has anybody ever porta powered the torching bars to the inside of the frame and welded them? I see a lot of people talking about how the frame bends at the rubber puck. A lot is personal preference, if you put the shocks on the outside of the frame the tires will rub, if you put the shocks on the inside of the frame they get in the way of the radiator, if you put them on top they are out of the way of the radiator(kinda)but are not directly behind the bumper so to me its pointless to put them on top. I don't hard nose but if i did... I would put the shocks on the inside of the frame and run a GM radiator that sits on top of the frame rails instead of the stock mopar one. the lower control arm bars always punch holes in the back side of mopar rads or the bottom gets mushed and torn off when you slide up on another car its blaspheme but i run gm rads for these reasons. I don't think anyone has messed with torsion bars. if you bend them they will be destroyed, if you weld them i think they would be destroyed as well. Shockers are tough cars not much you can do about stopping the sub from going up at the firewall unless you can put in a cage with kickers or plate the sides of the frame. Everytime you strengthen one part of a car a new weakness is revealed, often the new weak point is worse the old weak point.
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aron117
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Haven't you heard? Bird is the word
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Post by aron117 on Dec 31, 2016 5:16:44 GMT -5
I'm hard nosing my 77 Newport. Should I put the shocks on top or on the sides or no shocks at all? I read this site from beginning to the end and there are three different ways and I want to know the best way. Also, has anybody ever porta powered the torching bars to the inside of the frame and welded them? I see a lot of people talking about how the frame bends at the rubber puck. Rules will affect the answer to this question. If u r allowed to extend them put them on top and try to get them to go all the way to the a-arm. If not I would put them in the factory spot on the side. But I would definitely use them. I had bad luck hardnosing without shocks. Much better with them imo.
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dm440c
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derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
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Post by dm440c on Jan 15, 2017 11:06:58 GMT -5
agreed, after a number of tries I have concluded that hardnose without shocks doesn't work well with 74-78 C body. The frame collapses and usually down and in. How to attach shocks is rule dependent but I would find a way rather than hardnose.
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Post by droid250 on Jan 31, 2017 7:57:12 GMT -5
Anyone have any beliefs on where you should place your extra body bolt? We are allowed two none factory body bolts. Built the rear to be strong. So was contemplating on putting it where the rear leaf spring mounts to the body as I have had the doba ones rip off the body there. Or should I put it up on the front sub frame? Thought about putting them on the cross member to help keep the center from blowing out.
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Post by fordpowerforever on Jan 31, 2017 13:59:56 GMT -5
i always put mine halfway between firewall mounts and trans cross member, seen them come down there before. If your allowed trunk rods you can use them with the spring hangers.
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Punisher 66J
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F**K WELD CLASS, STOCK IS FOR TRUE DERBY DRIVERS!!!
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Post by Punisher 66J on Feb 10, 2017 17:28:27 GMT -5
Put your extra bolt in the front between the firewall mount and the cross member like fordpowerforever said. Then run your 9 wire down through the floor and around your frame to your dash bar. It will help a ton.
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Post by mathis96 on May 1, 2017 13:42:31 GMT -5
Anyone have any pictures of how they mounted their bumpers? I'm not using shocks instead I'm using box tubing in place of the shock. bumper hard nosed to frame and welded tubing to back off bumper and then tubing welded along side of frame in place of shock. It's a pointy bumper. Any thought on how this will work
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Post by bluredvision on May 27, 2017 0:34:27 GMT -5
I just want to bounce this off you guys, I've got a 77 New Yorker, torsion bars are jacked all the way up I have flat stack in the back. my pointy is 24" to center, my rear is 17 1/2" to center I like the idea of dropping the rear to gain front height but I'm a little worried that the angle might be too much, may cause it to nose too fast? do you think i should flip the shackles and bring the rear up a couple 3 inches or leave it kind of wedged?
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mopar17
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Post by mopar17 on May 27, 2017 7:07:35 GMT -5
I just want to bounce this off you guys, I've got a 77 New Yorker, torsion bars are jacked all the way up I have flat stack in the back. my pointy is 24" to center, my rear is 17 1/2" to center I like the idea of dropping the rear to gain front height but I'm a little worried that the angle might be too much, may cause it to nose too fast? do you think i should flip the shackles and bring the rear up a couple 3 inches or leave it kind of wedged? It's all a matter of angles....if the nose is pitched to the sky already it's bound to go up faster. I've went back and forth on this myself, what I try to do now is set the back where I want it first then address the front. You can always change the angle of the bumper, spacers, etc during the build that way. If need be just throw a taller tire on the back to level it out a little bit.
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Post by bluredvision on May 27, 2017 20:17:20 GMT -5
I'm not too worried about the angle of the bumper itself, I'm more worried about if the angle of the frame rails being too tilted back. what do you mean by throwing a trailer tire on the back to level it out? and setting rear bumper at center of spindle height? would it not be better to have rear bumper level with the top edge of a rim rather than center of spindle?
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Post by 4sasquach on May 30, 2017 20:37:39 GMT -5
^^^ "taller tire"..
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Post by bluredvision on Jun 17, 2017 0:28:01 GMT -5
All shockers have spool type motor mounts, does anyone weld or chain these? I never have, just wondering if i should.
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Post by cowdoc on Jun 17, 2017 21:04:54 GMT -5
All shockers have spool type motor mounts, does anyone weld or chain these? I never have, just wondering if i should. I dont but if rules allow chains or angle etc from frame to heads or headers I do, especially if you can weld them to the frame
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Warhawk
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Post by Warhawk on Jun 20, 2017 14:23:23 GMT -5
I have a 76 Fury wagon with the spare tire area rusted out and a little out behind the rear wheel wells. Should I patch the wheel well rust or just suck it in against the subframe? I keep seeing the term 'canoe' the back, what does that look like?
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