|
Post by car3926 on Jul 30, 2014 10:59:34 GMT -5
I have a new alternator, new voltage regulator , and new voltage regulator plug. I spliced all new 12 gauge wire to the fld post connections and used wire nuts to hold them to the new wire on the new regulator. Put a inline fuse on the 12 gauge power line connected into the blue wire with a twist connector. I left all power disconnected on positive side of battery with the battery grounded to the engine. I plugged in the voltage regulator with no connections to the alternator and the fuse was good with 12 volts to it. I unplugged the regulator and connected the alternator and the power line sparked and blew the fuse was when it touched the positive on the battery. I tried moving the power line that feeds the alternator from the solenoid to directly on the battery thinking a possible grounding issue with the solenoid to alternator. I put a new fuse in and same result when I fed the spliced blue wire with 12 volts. I'm guessing there has to be a grounding issue with the alternator but I have no idea what I'm missing? All the parts are new and everything is connected according to the diagram! There's no excess wires on the car it's all the charging I'm trying to fix or the wires for the electronic ignition which works great! What am I missing guys ? Need help I'm running short on time?
|
|
|
Post by car3926 on Jul 30, 2014 11:01:03 GMT -5
With the fld wires hanging freely and the regulator plugged in the the fuse is good.
|
|
|
Post by car3926 on Jul 30, 2014 11:37:14 GMT -5
I found the newer models say that the voltage regulator has to be grounded to the alternator. There's a top post for the ground on the newer models dedicated to that though that the 74 model doesn't have. Does this apply to the older models or is the alternator and regulator just grounded to body and through the negative on the battery?
|
|
|
Post by seventyonehemicuda on Jul 30, 2014 12:21:00 GMT -5
having both grounded to the battery is all you need.
ive never seen anyone have so much trouble wiring an alternator....
The problem must be with your wiring. id start from scratch all over again.
im positive if I was looking at your setup in person I could spot the problem and make it work.
print off one of dm440's diagrams and wire it EXACTLY as it is shown. I guarantee it will work flawlessly.
keep the plug for the ecm and the plugs for hooking up to the alt. get some new wire and run one wire at a time.
I don't mean to be a dink. but it is obvious that you have no clue what you are doing. rip apart your entire harness and start from scratch.
color code things if you need to. run one wire at a time solder and use heat shrink tubing. you've replaced and tested everything in your system other than
the wiring... I 100% believe that the problem is your wiring. it may take you an entire hour to build a new harness if you drag your ass.
|
|
|
Post by TeamMASS#16 on Jul 31, 2014 1:33:21 GMT -5
I want to ditch the key start and go with switches on my 87 fifth ave could i just use the wires that are on the steering column that the rod from key hole is hokked up to or do i have to strip that all out and lay new wires
|
|
dm440c
Feature Winner
derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
Posts: 2,824
|
Post by dm440c on Jul 31, 2014 10:18:35 GMT -5
I want to ditch the key start and go with switches on my 87 fifth ave could i just use the wires that are on the steering column that the rod from key hole is hokked up to or do i have to strip that all out and lay new wires kinda, yeah, but in my opinion the easiest way is to splice into the harness underhood and run your spliced wires into the car where you can reach them. Here's one cheesy method: Add a wire with a ring terminal to the positive post on the ignition coil (don't disconnect anything, just add this to it) and run this wire inside; connect it to a toggle switch; connect the other side of the switch to battery positive. Just a different way to feed 12v to the ignition "on" circuit. Your car has the Lean Burn ignition from the factory so there is only so much you can do to re-wire it; unless you replace it all with a points system or something else you're going to have to be satisfied to just splice into the existing circuits. Next, look at the starter. There should be two wires, one big and one small. Trace the small one to where it terminates at the starter relay. You could do several different things at this point, but the most basic is to disconnect that end from the relay, extend it inside the car where you can reach it, leave the end of the wire bare so that you can touch it to 12v hot to engage the starter.
|
|
dm440c
Feature Winner
derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
Posts: 2,824
|
Post by dm440c on Jul 31, 2014 10:54:50 GMT -5
I have a new alternator, new voltage regulator , and new voltage regulator plug. I spliced all new 12 gauge wire to the fld post connections and used wire nuts to hold them to the new wire on the new regulator. Put a inline fuse on the 12 gauge power line connected into the blue wire with a twist connector. I left all power disconnected on positive side of battery with the battery grounded to the engine. I plugged in the voltage regulator with no connections to the alternator and the fuse was good with 12 volts to it. I unplugged the regulator and connected the alternator and the power line sparked and blew the fuse was when it touched the positive on the battery. I tried moving the power line that feeds the alternator from the solenoid to directly on the battery thinking a possible grounding issue with the solenoid to alternator. I put a new fuse in and same result when I fed the spliced blue wire with 12 volts. I'm guessing there has to be a grounding issue with the alternator but I have no idea what I'm missing? All the parts are new and everything is connected according to the diagram! There's no excess wires on the car it's all the charging I'm trying to fix or the wires for the electronic ignition which works great! What am I missing guys ? Need help I'm running short on time? ...are you saying that... with the voltage regulator connected and the alternator NOT connected, fuse is good. BUT with the alternator connected, fuse goes kablooey. FURTHER that the fuse does not blow with the field wires connected to the alternator. It only blows when you connect the BAT wire to the alternator. ?
|
|
dm440c
Feature Winner
derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
Posts: 2,824
|
Post by dm440c on Jul 31, 2014 10:59:21 GMT -5
I made this a separate post so as not to confuse the previous one.
The BAT wire on the alternator should NOT be routed through the same circuit as the field wires or the voltage regulator, it should have its own stand-alone wire that runs straight from the BAT terminal on the alternator to the battery positive post. On my diagram I show it getting there via the battery positive splice point at the starter relay just because that is an easy way to make connections, and really it's the same path, but if you want to help isolate your problem to aid in diagnosis you can run your wire straight from the BAT terminal to the battery positive post.
|
|
|
Post by TeamMASS#16 on Jul 31, 2014 11:22:23 GMT -5
I want to ditch the key start and go with switches on my 87 fifth ave could i just use the wires that are on the steering column that the rod from key hole is hokked up to or do i have to strip that all out and lay new wires kinda, yeah, but in my opinion the easiest way is to splice into the harness underhood and run your spliced wires into the car where you can reach them. Here's one cheesy method: Add a wire with a ring terminal to the positive post on the ignition coil (don't disconnect anything, just add this to it) and run this wire inside; connect it to a toggle switch; connect the other side of the switch to battery positive. Just a different way to feed 12v to the ignition "on" circuit. Your car has the Lean Burn ignition from the factory so there is only so much you can do to re-wire it; unless you replace it all with a points system or something else you're going to have to be satisfied to just splice into the existing circuits. Next, look at the starter. There should be two wires, one big and one small. Trace the small one to where it terminates at the starter relay. You could do several different things at this point, but the most basic is to disconnect that end from the relay, extend it inside the car where you can reach it, leave the end of the wire bare so that you can touch it to 12v hot to engage the starter. Thanks for the info ill see what i can do with the little time i got left before next race
|
|
|
Post by car3926 on Aug 2, 2014 6:49:37 GMT -5
The fuse blows when the two fld wires and power line are to the alternator . The bat post has its own. 4 gauge wire from the solenoid , the green wire is connected to the top fld connection, and the middle fld connection is spliced to the blue wire. The blue wire has a three way splice into a wire that goes to the positive on the battery. If the 3 wires are connected to the alternator it's blows the fuse, if the wires are not connected and the regulator plug is connected its fine.
|
|
|
Post by seventyonehemicuda on Aug 2, 2014 14:17:44 GMT -5
I have a new alternator, new voltage regulator , and new voltage regulator plug.
If This is true the only thing that could be the problem would be the..... ..... wiring
unless you mean "I got a different alternator, a different voltage regulator and a different voltage plug." then you know nothing and gained zero knowledge by doing so.
"IF" your wiring is perfect bang on flawless then the problem would have to be.... the alt or the voltage regulator.... so lets eliminate one of these possibilities so we can gain knowledge and move forward. change the voltage regulator(its cheaper) with a new one, or one that you know works for sure try multiple ones if you must. If the problem is fixed.... YAY!!!! But..... if the problem is still there.... you know that the Voltage regulator is NOT the problem
"IF" your wiring is perfect bang on and flawless AND you have concluded that the voltage regulator is NOT the problem then by the process of elimination you have concluded that the Alt MUST be the problem..... so lets replace the alternator with another one that we know works ... problem solved right?
unless....... -you are just using "different" Alternators and assuming they are all good. -you are just using "different" voltage regulators and assuming they are all good. -your wiring is flawed and you just haven't noticed it.
If you know for a FACT that the problem is not the Alt. and not the V.R the only problem could be......
... ...
...
The wiring!!!!!
I can't believe that 2 entire web pages have been wasted on this. its obvious that if you had a problem with this between heats that you would be lost and overwhelmed anyways so... ...why not..... ...just run without an alternator ...half the people on this site do anyways....
|
|
|
Post by car3926 on Aug 4, 2014 20:30:44 GMT -5
Dm440c. Thanks for the help I got it working . My bad luck the parts store gave me two bad alternators that I assumed where good being new from the store. Gut a third and finally getting 14.6 on the post. Imagine that it wasn't my wiring! Just bad luck at orileys.
|
|
dm440c
Feature Winner
derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
Posts: 2,824
|
Post by dm440c on Aug 6, 2014 10:01:52 GMT -5
Dm440c. Thanks for the help I got it working . My bad luck the parts store gave me two bad alternators that I assumed where good being new from the store. Gut a third and finally getting 14.6 on the post. Imagine that it wasn't my wiring! Just bad luck at orileys. unfortunately, there is nothing surprising about that. All my experiences with the subject of auto repair has led me to the conclusion that easily 50% of the parts purchased from parts stores are faulty in some way- either the wrong part, a used part in a new box, or a just plain bad part in new condition. I made you two promises in all of this... the wiring diagram is correct AND the problem can be solved. Glad to know my integrity is intact
|
|
|
Post by TeamMASS#16 on Sept 3, 2014 16:27:02 GMT -5
I want to ditch the key start and go with switches on my 87 fifth ave could i just use the wires that are on the steering column that the rod from key hole is hokked up to or do i have to strip that all out and lay new wires kinda, yeah, but in my opinion the easiest way is to splice into the harness underhood and run your spliced wires into the car where you can reach them. Here's one cheesy method: Add a wire with a ring terminal to the positive post on the ignition coil (don't disconnect anything, just add this to it) and run this wire inside; connect it to a toggle switch; connect the other side of the switch to battery positive. Just a different way to feed 12v to the ignition "on" circuit. Your car has the Lean Burn ignition from the factory so there is only so much you can do to re-wire it; unless you replace it all with a points system or something else you're going to have to be satisfied to just splice into the existing circuits. Next, look at the starter. There should be two wires, one big and one small. Trace the small one to where it terminates at the starter relay. You could do several different things at this point, but the most basic is to disconnect that end from the relay, extend it inside the car where you can reach it, leave the end of the wire bare so that you can touch it to 12v hot to engage the starter. All i did was cut the starter wires and installed push button and accessories wires to switch the put a jumper from small acc wire to one starter wire and it works
|
|
|
Post by backwoodsboys707 on Apr 10, 2015 18:17:22 GMT -5
Ok maybe in just dumb but how do I wire up my points dis. If all im using is a push button and a flip switch.... im sure its on here but ive never wired one with this set up so a little help clarifying things would help out alot thanks
|
|