dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Jul 25, 2014 9:39:15 GMT -5
Question? With the electronic ignition diagram there is nothing powered directly to the alternator like in the dual charge diagram. If I ran the system using the ECM and I'm using a pushing button to jump the solenoid for a ignition is there any power being returned to my battery from the alternator or am I running on battery only ? If I'm running battery only how do I splice into the alternator with my current set up to charge the battery? Think of your starter, ignition, and charging circuits as three separate entities. Tackle them one at a time in that order. You've got start and run handled, now you can go after the charge. Follow my first diagram on the dual field system. Note that the big threaded post (usually has a 1/2" hex nut on it) on the starter relay is a good place to pick up battery hot. This is why I like to use these.... in addition to taking the load off of the starter button, it's an easy way to grab battery power for the various circuits and it's an easy way to bring the alternator charge wire back to the battery. Follow the diagram one wire at a time. It's not hard once you dive in. Note the switch that is providing battery hot to the middle post on the voltage regulator... you can give this its own switch or you can share the feed from the ignition switch. My posts from June 4 and July 11 of this year explain what you need to know.
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Post by car3926 on Jul 25, 2014 18:42:40 GMT -5
I was reading your explanation for the alternator and just want to clarify a wiring route! If I run the middle wire from fld to the control unit and run it as two wires both to the accessory side of my toggle that is being used as the power relay to the ignition would that work? I would run hot from the solenoid to the bat on the alternator. Run the outside wire on the module direct to the top fld post. And run the middle from the alternator to the accessory side of the toggle and run a wire from the accessory side spliced to the middle on the control unit? I believe that's what your explaining but wanted to clarify before connecting more wires. Thanks for all the help.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Jul 26, 2014 9:52:48 GMT -5
if I am interpreting what you wrote in the same way that you meant it... yes, I believe the way you said it is correct. I'm not 100% confident I am reading it the way you meant it though.
For your first time through you may not want to combine it with the ignition.... you need to gain some confidence that you know what is what first. I would suggest doing a mock-up with temporary connections to prove to yourself that you have it right. Just run the wires per the diagram using wire nuts to make the connections. Fire it up and put a voltmeter on the battery to verify it is charging. Once you have a successful trial run, you can make your permanent connections and combine it with the ignition.
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Post by car3926 on Jul 27, 2014 17:21:46 GMT -5
I keep burning switches . I ran power to the alternator from the solenoid with 4gauge, ran the middle fld on the alternator to a connector which I put on the accessory side of a toggle switch. The same accessory side then ran a second wire to the blue wire at the top of the module. I ran a direct splice from the side green wire to the top screw fld attachment on the alternator. I ran a independent power direct from the battery post to the switch. The second I turn power on to the switch it pops and burns. I piggy backed it to the switch I've been running my power to the ignition system and the moment I turned the power on it popes and smoked the switch! I don't understand what I'm doing wrong? If anyone knows how to fix this please help?
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dm440c
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derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
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Post by dm440c on Jul 28, 2014 7:35:16 GMT -5
from your description it sounds right to me, that's how I do it using an interior light switch. Possibly a short somewhere or a faulty component (alt or volt reg) with a dead short to ground causing excessive current flow. That or bogus switches, but it sure sounds like it is pulling a LOT of current to burn switches which just about has to be a short. To test it, try putting in a new switch then disconnecting at the alternator so that only the volt reg is connected to the switch. Flip it on and see what happens. If it survives, disconnect the volt reg and re-connect the alt and try again. One or the other should pop it. If they both do, then you have a wiring problem common to both. Get the idea?
...if you want to put in some protection, wire in an in-line fuse holder between the switch and the rest of that circuit. Use 10 amp fuses during your diagnostic work and 20 amp after you get it figured out. OR for diagnostic purposes wire in a 10 amp circuit breaker. If your switches can't handle 20 amps then you need a better switch.
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Post by car3926 on Jul 28, 2014 9:54:17 GMT -5
For checking ground? The common ground for most of my connections is through the battery correct ? I used the factory ground bolt to the motor. I used self taping 3/8 bolts to secure the voltage regulator to the passenger side floor. Is the alternator grounded to the engine by the bracket and bolts holding it in place or is there supposed to be a wire? The diagram shows the only ground as the battery! I know that connection is good because it's running the other systems. If it's a short like you believe it's wiring not grounded correctly? And for testing I disconnect the battery connection and both fld connections? Run power to a switch with the top wire spliced to the accessory. The other way is unplug the regulator with the two fld connections in place and with 12 volts to the alternator?
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Post by car3926 on Jul 28, 2014 10:18:23 GMT -5
When the alternator or the voltage regulator causes the circuit to short at the switch or fuse does that mean that part has a short ( no or pour ground) or does it mean that parts bad ( replacing the alternator or voltage regulator)?
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Post by car3926 on Jul 28, 2014 14:17:56 GMT -5
I did the checks. The regulator plugged in and powered directly to the battery and 12.5 v it was good. I unplugged the regulator and hooked the 12 v to the switch with the wiring connected to the alternator and the second the wire touched the battery it flashed and popped the fuse. I know which part is causing it I just don't know what I'm looking for? Is the alternator bad? Is the alternator not grounded or properly grounded? Or am I lolling for bad wiring ? Thanks again for the help and guidance I'm looking to go bust some heads with this in a couple weeks
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Jul 28, 2014 14:47:23 GMT -5
off hand that sounds like your alternator has some internal issue causing the field circuit to short to the case, which is grounded to the chassis through the engine mount. Take the alternator to a parts store and have them test it for you. Sounds like you are on the right track, if that proves out true then congratulate yourself for taking a step closer to being an expert in automotive wiring!
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Post by car3926 on Jul 28, 2014 16:02:02 GMT -5
Ha far from it. I don't know how this thing started and ran down the road so well. I've replaced a bad coil and now the alternator may have a short! Good thing they sell them cheap for replacements. Thanks again really appreciate the help. First Chrysler I've ever run and it's been a learning experience.
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Post by car3926 on Jul 28, 2014 18:20:47 GMT -5
Alternator wouldn't even test. They put power to it and it was an automatic fail. Going to bolt In the new one and hope all is well.
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Post by car3926 on Jul 29, 2014 7:13:11 GMT -5
Still burning fuses! Installed new alternator. All other power wires disconnected from battery. I hooked the battery and two fld wires to the alternator but did not feed the new alternator power through the 4 gauge and the engine was off . The instant the power line to the charging system touched it smoked the inline 20 amp fuse. The voltage regulator tested good before and I didn't touch or change anything on that side of the setup. Am I looking at a bad wire connection? Not sure what to look for now?
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Jul 29, 2014 23:29:36 GMT -5
Still burning fuses! Installed new alternator. All other power wires disconnected from battery. I hooked the battery and two fld wires to the alternator but did not feed the new alternator power through the 4 gauge and the engine was off . The instant the power line to the charging system touched it smoked the inline 20 amp fuse. The voltage regulator tested good before and I didn't touch or change anything on that side of the setup. Am I looking at a bad wire connection? Not sure what to look for now? Its really starting to sound like you are still using parts of the old wiring harness...
first thing is first. remove ALL of the original harness, get the side cutters and get busy sniping and chopping.
now start building a new harness using one of the many diagrams dm440c has supplied you with.
if you want to use a couple strands of wires from the old harness, that's cool. but don't waste time trying to incorporate the existing harness with the new one.
CHOP THE OLD ONE OUT COMPLETELY.... then start fresh.
It may seem like an overwhelming task the first time you do it, however once done. you will be telling yourself that there is just no other way to do it. it is the easiest smartest most fool proof way to wire a derby car.
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Post by car3926 on Jul 30, 2014 6:34:09 GMT -5
The only original wire is the power line off the alternator and the voltage regulator and ecu plugs that I spliced into. I have 12 gauge wire running to the fld connections and 4 gauge from the solenoid to the alternator. I'm buying a new voltage regulator and plug and going to re splice new 12 gauge wire.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Jul 30, 2014 10:44:02 GMT -5
now I am suspicious of your wiring. Disconnect all three wires from the alternator- BAT and both fields- and leave them hanging in the air (not touching anything). Put the power to your circuit and see if it smokes the fuse again.
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