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Post by theonly729 on Aug 4, 2015 20:48:36 GMT -5
I have a swtich pannel, just a push button and 1 switch, have a dui distributer with coil inside it, obv starter and battery, any of the pictures on this thread able to show me the way to go with wireing it all up? Never done it before and wanna get it right, thanks.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Aug 5, 2015 7:37:23 GMT -5
I have a swtich pannel, just a push button and 1 switch, have a dui distributer with coil inside it, obv starter and battery, any of the pictures on this thread able to show me the way to go with wireing it all up? Never done it before and wanna get it right, thanks. Just go one line at a time: 1) big wire on starter goes to battery positive with heavy battery cable (gage 2) 2) small wire on starter goes to push button with 12 gage wire 3) other terminal on push button goes to battery positive with 12 gage 4) distributor wire goes to toggle with 12 gage 5) other terminal on toggle goes to battery positive with 12 gage 6) battery cable from engine block to battery negative 7) battery cable from engine block to car body
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Aug 5, 2015 19:38:43 GMT -5
^^ why bother with the ground from block to the body?
signals? trunk light?
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Aug 15, 2015 17:21:43 GMT -5
well you want to crank the tunes while you are in there, right?
I don't take any chances when it comes to grounds. Also, when people read this stuff on the internet they tend to absorb some things and not others, so then you get a guy who does all of the above and then adds a charging system. Without the body ground the voltage regulator won't work and he'll have us chasing our tails trying to figure it out. Better not to take chances with grounds... just ground the block to the body and be done with it I say.
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Post by 78newyorker on Aug 25, 2015 21:28:36 GMT -5
I wired my small block with electronic ignition up the way dm440c's diagram shows to. Easy as pie. Tried to fire it and would not start. I looked over the wiring like 20 times to make sure it was good and still nothing. I was going to send dm440c a message and tell him his diagram is sh!t, but before I did that I read through all the wiring tips and in one of his post he says to make sure to ground the engine to the body. I went outside and did that and it fired right up! I don't really understand wiring and grounds but it works so I am happy.
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Post by taterjuice on Oct 12, 2015 10:59:38 GMT -5
What year dizzy and model would I need to look for to find a points type dizzy for slant 6, yeah I know it's not worth running.
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Oct 12, 2015 12:10:41 GMT -5
Tater- pretty much anything from 60-72 should have points. say a 69 fury or dart. should get you what you are looking for.
In response to the wiring posts, i always run a designated, soldered ground wires to each component that needs grounding -big cable to block -designated line to the ecu -designated line to the voltage regulator. -designated ground lines to any fan or pump that requires grounding. although the some parts may indeed be mounted to the body (ecu, and voltage regulator) and my ground wires to each component witch in effect may be doubling as body ground. my setups are never reliant on the body for grounding anywhere.
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Post by demotrash on Mar 30, 2016 15:53:10 GMT -5
I
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Post by demotrash on Mar 30, 2016 16:01:30 GMT -5
I have a Chrysler 400 motor n can't find a points distributor anywhere at any part stores around here. Does anyone have part number or can explain where or how I can get my hands on this elusive distributor. I ran it with the lean burn garbage last year n it just quit out of nowhere gotta do this swap
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Post by fordpowerforever on Mar 30, 2016 22:04:31 GMT -5
just get one for a 383, say like a 67 newport. i think 400 was only like one or two years with points.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Apr 2, 2016 7:59:59 GMT -5
see PM, but for broadcast purposes- 361, 383, and 400 were all the same block with different bore sizes so the distributors are interchangeable. 361 and 383 were only made during the points era so there ya go. It's debatable whether the parts store versions have different advance curves but in case they do I would suggest 1966-1969 as the model years with the best advance curves. So- when I need one I always look up a 1969 ('67 as suggested above is fine) Newport with a 383 at Auto Zone (or your favorite alternative discount auto parts supplier) and the distributor should be about $40
Also, this information is in the Mopar big block engines thread elsewhere on this website.
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Post by demotrash on Apr 9, 2016 17:34:11 GMT -5
On page one the points distributor diagram. does the 12v wire go to battery then? If so then I put my toggle switch between resistor and battery? And how thick of wires do I need for this? And also I won't need the light so I just go straight to the push button?
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Apr 11, 2016 0:16:13 GMT -5
Not sure if it's been discussed yet, or if it's just common knowledge, but if you're like me, and running a Magnum with the factory serpentine belt set up, you can wire the stock Magnum alternator just like an LA system. www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=297912 There is a video down the page a little that explains things quite well. Hope this helps someone.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Apr 21, 2016 21:03:37 GMT -5
On page one the points distributor diagram. does the 12v wire go to battery then? If so then I put my toggle switch between resistor and battery? And how thick of wires do I need for this? And also I won't need the light so I just go straight to the push button? - yes - yes - 12ga is plenty big enough - the light is optional
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Post by demotrash on May 1, 2016 12:05:46 GMT -5
On page one the points distributor diagram. does the 12v wire go to battery then? If so then I put my toggle switch between resistor and battery? And how thick of wires do I need for this? And also I won't need the light so I just go straight to the push button? - yes - yes - 12ga is plenty big enough - the light is optional
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