Fuel lines / Fuel pump cheap options

[tacojuans]

I am 100% new to demolition derbies, I've always wanted to participate in one and finally have the car to do it.

I have a 2006 2wd Toyota Highlander that I'm converting into a demo car I'm trying to convert it as cheaply and efficiently as possible, I only intend on using this car once and marking it off my bucket list. The only thing that has me puzzled is the fuel tank rule. Where everything else is easy.

The rules of the Derby fir the gasoline states the following;

Gasoline is limited to 4 gallons or less. All stock fuel tanks must be removed completely. Gas must be placed in a D.O.T. approved container with no chance for leaks at hose connection. Must have metal fittings and approved fuel lines. Fuel tanks must be strapped down with ratchet straps or threaded rod through body and must be secure. Or attached to seat bar with box 24" max width & length, 3 inches off the floor minimum between frame rails. Not connected to anything but the seat bar-no kickers or angle gussets. Tanks are recommended to be covered with nonflammable material, such as rubber floor mats. Plastic tanks must be in a metal box.

I'm assuming the veterans here can tell me that the easiest and most cost-effective way to do this. I've tried looking at YouTube and haven't had much luck, so if there's a video you would recommend I would really appreciate it.

Thanks for the help in advance

[noser23x]

I guess the line of questioning is somewhat vague, but I will try my best to help.

Fuel tank can't (even though some places allow it, dumbest thing in this sport) be under the vehicle, it has to be moved inside the vehicle. A well made fuel tank is what you would want inside your vehicle, considering it is about 2 feet away from you and I don't think gas splashing on anyone is a good recipe. The steel boat tanks have been ran forever, and are a great budget option. You can do this by mounting it to the floor on the inside of the vehicle, or mount it to your cage, either way it's safer inside the vehicle, but safest mounted to the cage since theoretically that part shouldn't move, it is there to protect you.

In terms of hooking things back up, I am no expert on a 2006 Toyota anything, so I am not sure the PSI required by the engine from the fuel line, if it has a return line, etc, but you need to supply fuel from your new tank to the engine. Preferably these new lines run inside the car, but if you splice into the existing fuel lines under the car (and assuming they aren't plastic), that's an option as well.

If you have a return system, you can run an inline pump for under $100, connect it to the feed side of the fuel line, and have it return to something in the tank. When I have built my own tanks, I have a feed on the bottom and 2 ports at the top (a return port and a vent). Another option is some vendors sell tanks where you can take the fuel pump and sending unit out of the stock gas tank, drop it in to theirs, and basically a clamp on the gas tank sinches it in so it can't leak. That way it supplies the exact amount of fuel pressure and the system should run the same as it did when the vehicle was on the road. If you look up derby parts on Google, I am sure you can find a ton of vendors that are more then happy to have you as a customer.

Hope that helps out some

[Ed Becker]

If you have or can get a steel marine tank, it's not difficult to cut out a hole in the top to mount the factory fuel pump. Then you'll have your return lines and a pump that puts out the proper pressure and will play well with the ECM. Check out this thread: we-crash.proboards.com/thread/14264/build-compact-gas-tank

I'm also a fan of mounting the tank to the seat bar. It should be relatively okay on the middle of the floorboard if it's flat and if you can keep the rear doors from getting crushed inside the car.