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Post by Derby6 on Apr 5, 2016 17:48:39 GMT -5
Even with a new mini starter, lots of the teeth on my flywheel are 1/2 gone not allowing starter to engage. Before I spend $50 on a new one and another $70 ($120 total) on shipping, figured I would post and ask if any one on here has one lying around that they would ship to me and make themselves a buck or two and save me a buck or two.
Motor came out of a 78 New Yorker--I am going to try and find the title (car is gone) and get with Chrysler to find exact tooth count. Or I will try and pull it this weekend and count teeth and measure it.
I'm thinking this will just bolt on -- but a buddy said he thought the fly wheel/flex plate was a part of the torque convertor?
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Post by cowdoc on Apr 5, 2016 18:55:22 GMT -5
The teeth are on the outside edge of the torque converter
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Post by metalman187x on Apr 6, 2016 15:31:26 GMT -5
im by no means an engine expert but you should be able to use a torque converter from any bbm with the same specs on the crankshaft as the 440 you have. im not sure what cui big blocks used what crankshafts and not sure the years that have forged vs cast etc. but i know they are different between the 60's and 70's engines and that the torque converters are weighted specifically to whatever the crankshaft specs are and using the wrong converter will shake the bottom end apart if you dont use the right one. maybe you can find the right one locally before having one shipped but like cowdoc said the flywheel and converter are all one piece. i think the 440 383 and the 400s use the same crankshafts but im not 100% on that so do your own research before taking my word on it
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Post by Derby6 on Apr 6, 2016 17:47:30 GMT -5
like cowdoc said the flywheel and converter are all one piece. I plan to pull motor this weekend. If the flywheel and converter are in fact one solid piece it is going to completely screw me. I guess that would mean the flywheels I am finding I would gave to remove the old one with a grinder and re-weld the new one on. Not sure how I could do this getting it perfectly centered? Please be bolted on..... ppppplease.....lol |
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Post by klicky96 on Apr 6, 2016 18:42:33 GMT -5
like cowdoc said the flywheel and converter are all one piece. I plan to pull motor this weekend. If the flywheel and converter are in fact one solid piece it is going to completely screw me. I guess that would mean the flywheels I am finding I would gave to remove the old one with a grinder and re-weld the new one on. Not sure how I could do this getting it perfectly centered? Please be bolted on..... ppppplease.....lol You're screwed bud. I've never seen a bolt on flyweel for a bbm. And no, you can't cut and reweld without the proper jig and whatnot. Just find a junkyard with a 440 in it and rip the converter out. |
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Post by klicky96 on Apr 6, 2016 18:44:20 GMT -5
Just to clarify, this is a automatic correct? And is the flywheel visually chewed down or do you have the wrong starter? Pictures of the converter/teeth would help.
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Post by Derby6 on Apr 6, 2016 21:34:41 GMT -5
Yes it is an automatic. And yes the teeth are visually missing 1/2 teeth towards the front. Kinda makes me think I got the wrong mini, but it bolted right in tightly and did turn it over. So that leads me to believe its just years of abuse? I have some pics but they did not come out worth a poop. Will get and post better ones once I pull the motor back out this weekend.
Hopefully I can find a replacement converter with the flywheel still attached.
Oh the joys of this build. Sometimes I wonder why I put myself thru this.
Appreciate all the replies and help thus far guys.
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mn13
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Post by mn13 on Apr 7, 2016 12:23:41 GMT -5
www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-145200/overview/make/chrysler This should be what your factory flexplate looks like. your converter with ring gear for the starter should look similar to this www.ebay.com/itm/CHRYSLER-DODGE-A727-A518-A618-46RE-LOCKUP-1978-95-TORQUE-CONVERTER-/171796620708I don't work on these as much anymore but the last time I had to order one without a core converter they wanted to know the crank material, cast or steel, basically internally or externally balanced. since you have the original converter yet my supplier goes off the ring gear width and the style weight. After I posted this I got curious grabbed my book and show three options for this one. Forged steel crank with no weights, and two options for the cast crank but I cant figure out the difference between them, both have a small butterfly weight, but that's why I call in to order, so I cant screw it up
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Post by Derby6 on Apr 7, 2016 14:01:37 GMT -5
Thanks
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Punisher 66J
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F**K WELD CLASS, STOCK IS FOR TRUE DERBY DRIVERS!!!
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Post by Punisher 66J on Apr 7, 2016 16:30:50 GMT -5
All automatic torque converters/ flywheels big or small are always one piece. I could be wrong but there is not one I have seen seperate. Your gonna have to buy a torque converter.
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Post by Derby6 on Apr 9, 2016 14:03:49 GMT -5
Below is pics. Looks like I can buy entire new torque converter flywheel combo for 100-200 bucks. Me just asking for fly wheel was the issue. Was a SOB getting the motor out leaving the transmission in the car. I sure hope I can get it back together. Having to undo all of my fabricated transmission mounts and shifter would be a real Pain in the arse. As always thank you guys for the help.   |
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Post by Derby6 on Apr 10, 2016 16:47:07 GMT -5
Still had to order it...10-14 days
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mn13
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Posts: 231
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Post by mn13 on Apr 11, 2016 12:33:14 GMT -5
I may be wrong but it looks like you pulled the converter with the engine. If you try to bolt converter to the engine and put it in that way you'll probably never get it. Install the converter into the trans first then drop engine in. The bolt pattern converter to the flywheel probably only lines up one way, so get the tape measure out and mark it ahead of time, will save lots of aggravation from it not fitting. Also now would be a good time to put a seal in to try to prevent that leak.
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Post by fordpowerforever on Apr 11, 2016 14:35:40 GMT -5
and on Chrysler big blocks there is two different flex plates so make sure you have the right size to converter before installation. i think its about an inch difference in bolt circle.
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Post by Derby6 on Apr 11, 2016 18:32:06 GMT -5
I may be wrong but it looks like you pulled the converter with the engine. If you try to bolt converter to the engine and put it in that way you'll probably never get it. Install the converter into the trans first then drop engine in. The bolt pattern converter to the flywheel probably only lines up one way, so get the tape measure out and mark it ahead of time, will save lots of aggravation from it not fitting. Also now would be a good time to put a seal in to try to prevent that leak. You are correct, I pulled it as one. I just stumbled onto what you just posted yesterday so planned on reinstalling that way. Definitely will measure and mark. Once its in in and I get 1-2 bolts started, how do you guys turn over the motor to get to the other bolts? Thanks for the seal advice.  and on Chrysler big blocks there is two different flex plates so make sure you have the right size to converter before installation. i think its about an inch difference in bolt circle. Yes, there is a 10 and 11 inch bolt circle. Mine is the 10 inch. 3 versions, no weight, 2 (50 gram) weight, and 100 gram butterfly weight. Pictures showed I needed the butterfly--hence I ordered it. Figured trying to find one was going to be hard enough, them it had to be the right one too. I still had to choose between High Stall and Low stall. Hope the parts guy guided me right; I ordered the High stall. |
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