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Post by STROMI 121 on Feb 1, 2016 18:40:07 GMT -5
If you run an extra long slip yoke you can have three inches hanging out of the trans. This requires the right yoke and proper transmission preparation.
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Post by klicky96 on Feb 1, 2016 19:43:55 GMT -5
If you can't do that I would suggest duct taping the joint you are running. Sounds crazy, but twice now I have taken the tape off and the caps to the universal joint fell out, so yeah duct tape kept that car running....lol X2!!! I always put duct tape around the U joint. Duct tape every joint, from the shaft to the yolk. That way. If the joint snaps, the duct tape may hold long enough.
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larsonracing
Heat Winner
I would run WITHOUT a brake pedal if they would let me.
Posts: 318
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Post by larsonracing on Feb 1, 2016 21:26:10 GMT -5
Helps greatly if you have access to a lathe.
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Post by JoJo Davis on Feb 1, 2016 21:49:51 GMT -5
I tape the driveshaft and make sure the tape is straight with the measurement between the two pieces the same all the way around. Cut the desired length out then slice the section you just cut out and sleeve the inside of the driveshaft where u are rewelding it. Just how I do it
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Post by redneckracing12 on Feb 1, 2016 22:10:36 GMT -5
I cut on one side of the factory weld for the cup/ u joint strap then cut to desired length tap the cup/u joint strap end back in. Phase it correctly and make sure it square then burn it back in.
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Post by STROMI 121 on Feb 1, 2016 22:18:08 GMT -5
I always cut the factory weld at the bottom yoke (with a ziz wheel being careful not to cut the yoke) because there is much more support at the rear end pinion than at the transmission bushing. Then beat the yoke out, shorten the driveshaft tube to desired length, and then reweld just like factory. Its never a bad idea to reinstall it to check for length and and spin it by hand to check for trueness before welding it back together. The yokes have a one inch flange that fits perfectly inside the driveshaft tube just like they built it at the factory. Unless you are building some hybrid shaft like ford to mopar etc, the factory bottom yoke is the obvious place to shorten I'm sure duct tape is awesome. However a properly build and clearance shaft, a longer than stock slip yoke, welded caps, and a properly prepared transmission is far better than twenty three rolls of duct tape. I have only lost two driveshafts in 17 years. Both were due to stock upper control arm failure because of stock rules. Just my opinion
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Post by redneckracing12 on Feb 1, 2016 23:01:40 GMT -5
^^^^^ you worded that so much better than I did lol.
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Post by JoJo Davis on Feb 2, 2016 9:01:25 GMT -5
I always cut the factory weld at the bottom yoke (with a ziz wheel being careful not to cut the yoke) because there is much more support at the rear end pinion than at the transmission bushing. Then beat the yoke out, shorten the driveshaft tube to desired length, and then reweld just like factory. Its never a bad idea to reinstall it to check for length and and spin it by hand to check for trueness before welding it back together. The yokes have a one inch flange that fits perfectly inside the driveshaft tube just like they built it at the factory. Unless you are building some hybrid shaft like ford to mopar etc, the factory bottom yoke is the obvious place to shorten I'm sure duct tape is awesome. However a properly build and clearance shaft, a longer than stock slip yoke, welded caps, and a properly prepared transmission is far better than twenty three rolls of duct tape. I have only lost two driveshafts in 17 years. Both were due to stock upper control arm failure because of stock rules. I'm done with this subject.... With 23 rolls of duct tape on it, just run the slider and put a duct tape wrap around it...hahaha
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Post by amkear613 on Feb 2, 2016 10:04:05 GMT -5
thanks boys! the cutting a section and slicing it and putting it inside as jojo said I had thought of myself and I would cut back towards the rear. I guess I was overthinking it. All the talk about vibration and balance from reading about slider shafts had me nervous. Thanks for details guys. I would rather "build" than buy more of a self education and pride thing. Want to do it old school.
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Post by JoJo Davis on Feb 2, 2016 12:41:24 GMT -5
Stromi knows a lot about the old school way, I just know what I do...lol I have broken joints and yokes, but never have had a broken driveshaft from sleeving the section. There is a lot of benefits to the way stromi mentioned but without the proper yoke and trans preparation you will be doomed. And my only remark to spot welding the caps is that if you heat the grease too much and it comes out the joint will still fail and end up either breaking the joint or the caps, so I still say put 3 loops of duct tape around the joint to be safe
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Post by saskbanger on Feb 2, 2016 19:36:19 GMT -5
OK can we now continue this thread and discuss (explain about) the tranny prep that was mentioned. Thanks.
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Post by STROMI 121 on Feb 2, 2016 20:03:02 GMT -5
An extra long yoke will not slide into the transmission far enough. You have to clearance the output shaft for adequate travel. This can be done on a lathe if rebuilding the transmission (obviously the best and most proper way). Or can also be done very carefully with a small grinder. The key is consistently because of balance. I always spin the shaft while grinding to ensure balance and consistency. I have performed this procedure on the bench with an old flywheel attached to a yoke so I could spin and grind at the same time. I have even done it with a spare tail shaft housing cut at the flange and a couple trash bags for a seal and done it in the car while the engine was running and in gear so the output shaft was spinning while I was grinding. The key is consistency while grinding and not filling the transmission with grinder shavings. I will not share any more on the subject. If you are confused by any of my statements, do not attempt. This part of the equation is not for the rookie builder.
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Post by saskbanger on Feb 2, 2016 22:38:21 GMT -5
Thanks. Now I have to find one of these extra long yokes. I have a couple that are long not the splined section of them are no longer than a normal yoke. These have the splines starting about 2 inches or so into the yoke. These I am guessing are not what I want for this. Any idea where a guy can get these extra long yokes? I run t350's and t400's. Right now I am building a car with a t350. Thanks.
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ddawg
Future Icon
Posts: 82
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Post by ddawg on Feb 3, 2016 0:16:10 GMT -5
Helps greatly if you have access to a lathe. Yes it does! Been scabbing pieces parts together for years with an old WW2 era lathe built in 1941, never lost a drive line. However , I broke down and bought a Hansen Slider for my Daughter's first Derby car ('65 T-Bird) Have a feeling she will drive Hard!
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ddawg
Future Icon
Posts: 82
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Post by ddawg on Feb 3, 2016 0:25:27 GMT -5
Stromi knows a lot about the old school way, I just know what I do...lol I have broken joints and yokes, but never have had a broken driveshaft from sleeving the section. There is a lot of benefits to the way stromi mentioned but without the proper yoke and trans preparation you will be doomed. And my only remark to spot welding the caps is that if you heat the grease too much and it comes out the joint will still fail and end up either breaking the joint or the caps, so I still say put 3 loops of duct tape around the joint to be safe We use 10 MIL tape (hardware store plumbing) beats the hell out of duct tape, Oh and I always regrease everything in the driveline/drivetrain/steering/suspension after any work at all (learned the hard way during my first derby in '83)
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