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Post by fallinskiestwice on Mar 1, 2020 10:51:59 GMT -5
I had a hell of a time trying to get a 4412 to run good on these years ago. I ditched em and switched to 7448s with great results. 350 cfm vs 500 cfm. Highly recommend them. As for the Rochester, i have no idea. Ive never ran one
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Post by 724original on Mar 1, 2020 11:48:40 GMT -5
I will consider, where did you find yours at. I see them online for 350 which is no problem but I'd hate to spend that on something for negative results. I have a stock 3100 with just rebuild nothing fancy. With the 4412 car would sound great 5 hits into the derby stumble wouldn't idle hard to start. Messed with the carb with same results then I redid all my wiring and new coils cause it wasnt the same symptoms everytime I ran so thought maybe something electrical is getting hot. But still no changes. It's just frustrating. That rochester I had was a 20 dollar junkyard find that I rebuilt and did little odds and ends to but I could full track with it no problems i could fire the car and it actually idle. But i will consider what you said about the 7448.
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Post by smashbob12 on Mar 2, 2020 6:07:27 GMT -5
7448 with a power valve block off plug, #72 jets #31 squirter don't remember off hand what pump cam. The ebay off road kit and the holley nitrile float. It took me awhile before I got it to where I was happy.
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Post by fallinskiestwice on Mar 2, 2020 8:56:15 GMT -5
I will consider, where did you find yours at. I see them online for 350 which is no problem but I'd hate to spend that on something for negative results. I have a stock 3100 with just rebuild nothing fancy. With the 4412 car would sound great 5 hits into the derby stumble wouldn't idle hard to start. Messed with the carb with same results then I redid all my wiring and new coils cause it wasnt the same symptoms everytime I ran so thought maybe something electrical is getting hot. But still no changes. It's just frustrating. That rochester I had was a 20 dollar junkyard find that I rebuilt and did little odds and ends to but I could full track with it no problems i could fire the car and it actually idle. But i will consider what you said about the 7448. I got mine off ebay or marketplace, cant remember. Same rebuild kit as a 4412.
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Post by 724original on Mar 2, 2020 10:15:32 GMT -5
7448 with a power valve block off plug, #72 jets #31 squirter don't remember off hand what pump cam. The ebay off road kit and the holley nitrile float. It took me awhile before I got it to where I was happy. 72 jets seems big but I also guess it cause of the power valve block off. I was running 54s in my 4412 but also 500cfm. But isn't the rule of thumb when you block a power valve off you need to over jet atleast 6 sizes to make up for that power valve
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Post by fallinskiestwice on Mar 2, 2020 10:34:07 GMT -5
Yes. I run 54s or so in my 350 cfm carb with no block off.
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Post by taterjuice on Mar 3, 2020 15:23:34 GMT -5
Yes. I run 54s or so in my 350 cfm carb with no block off. 48s work great after bout 300 degrees
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Post by 724original on Mar 8, 2020 13:01:11 GMT -5
Has anybody ever ran the getrag 282 or 284s with a 3100 carbed. I was thinking about doing a stick setup this year. But having a hard time finding all the pieces to the puzzle. Just looking for some insight before I get to deep in this scavenger hunt.
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Post by fallinskiestwice on Mar 8, 2020 15:26:31 GMT -5
I have a getrag 284 in a z34 road car and have done a bit of reading on them. The main issue would be the rarity of the 284 if you run into problems. They don't make rebuild kits and used trans can go for 1k since they only made a few of them and they went out of business in the 90s or something. They seem pretty weak in road cars from what i read and i don't think id put a whole lot into this setup. A 282 is a different story. They were made for the berettas but according to the w body guys online they can handle 300hp for street use. They still have their quirks and aren't bulletproof. They make rebuild kits for them as well so you could fix one up if need be. As for derby use, you won't find much but could hit up the w body forum. I personally don't like running standard trans for derbying but that's just a personal preference.
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Post by chris7 on Mar 20, 2020 20:09:43 GMT -5
Best tires and wheels to run on front and rear of w body
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Post by fallinskiestwice on Mar 21, 2020 13:19:53 GMT -5
Best tires and wheels to run on front and rear of w body What are your rules? Solid suspension?
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Post by chris7 on Mar 21, 2020 13:26:27 GMT -5
Stock class rules
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Post by 724original on Mar 21, 2020 22:36:59 GMT -5
Stock class, a 15in snow tread with good tread left, doubled and tubed with donuts out back. It's hard to tell you what tire to run with you just saying stock rules, cause I have shows around me that you can run any tire just the suspension and body have to remain stock and that's what we consider around here stock rules. But if you can run any tire then 550-15 with a tube work good, 500-15 v tread doubled with a tube on a deep dish donut work ok, kinda soft but there is no best tire it's all what works for you. Just like the little solid wheels on the rear, I've had bad luck with them so I run donuts on the rear. Others love the solid rear tires.
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Post by 724original on Mar 22, 2020 16:15:47 GMT -5
Need some opinions, the one show I'm building for doesnt allow us to change subframe mounts we can only solid mount the front 2 with 5/8 max bolt and 2in washer, rest have to stay stock. I usually mount them all solid and weld a chain from unibody to the known spot on the subframe that bends, which we were allowed as long as the chain had 1 link slack. But this show we cant but we can use 9 wire. But I'm thinking about keeping all the mounts stock and wrapping 9 wire in the known bend spot. I'm worried by mounting the front mounts solid itll speed up the the sub bending were it does.
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Post by fallinskiestwice on Mar 22, 2020 18:14:50 GMT -5
Id run em solid. Anything to help keep the sub/rails together, the better.
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