Post by ironman78 on Sept 20, 2022 19:03:56 GMT -5
OK lets make a list and tackle what we need so its easy for the new guys to find.
#1. Hotwire Coil Packs.
I do this whether or not I converted to carb just so the computer isn't in control of my ignition.
Coil packs, Pink is 12volt+ black is 12volt- leave the crank position wires hooked up (purple and yellow twisted) don't need any of the other 5 unless you want to run a tach. one of the two white ones is the tach wire.
The 12V+ (pink wire) goes to your ignition switch, toggle, or for some of you guys (I don't recommend it) your twisted together wires.
To further clearify, the #1 plug is your power and ground. The #2 plug is your crank position sensor. The #3 plug is unused unless you want to run a tach in which case you hook the signal wire to the one of the two white wires. I believe it is the front one and not the white one in the center.
#2. Hotwire Transmission.
On the electronic transmissions they will default to 2nd gear if the computer is not in the car or will shift into 2nd too early if the computer is in the car. Also when your car goes into limp mode it simply will start out in 2nd gear. If you think you'll need 2nd for a long track shot or your track is a mud hole I advise putting in a push button or a toggle so you can force the trans into 2nd.
Trans Identification, The electronic trans will be stamped on the pan 4T60E and will have 7 wires coming out of the plug on the front of the transmission.
"Ok here it goes and pay attention!!! You can hotwire the trans whether you are running ECM or you carb it... Now if you have a 4t60e... 1. On front of trans there is a ROUND pigtail, cut wires long enough to work with them. 2. Peel wrap off and on the very bottom of the plug there are the 2 wires you will need... One is Green and one is yellow/black stripe, these two you twist together and run a hot wire to these... 3. Go clockwise from the yellow/black stripe skip one and it will be tan run ground wire and you should have 1st gear... I have had a few that were odd but think they were 3.4 dohc... Also you can put a toggle switch in (to break power to the Green and Yellow W/black stripe) so you can have second gear..."
(Thanks 607 for that very detailed tutorial)
Does the plug look like THIS WITH THESE COLOR WIRES??
Here is a diagram to help people UNDERSTAND
If you don't have the ROUND PLUG you don't have to hotwire!!!!!!!!!!!! I think....
(Thanks T-brell for the diagram)
#3. Carb conversions.
Carb conversion eliminates the computer from the car. If you convert to a carb you will need a different fuel pump. Carb conversions are typically done on the upper intake plemun by simply welding a carb adapter plate to the plenum and welding the factory air intake shut (Eliminating the mass air sensor and the EGR).
#4. Headers
Headers will swap from 2.8, 3.1, 3100, 3.4, and 3400 as long as the 3400 is not a DOHC.
Dec sells headers for these but make sure they are FWD and not 2.8 or 3.1 RWD there is a difference.
#5. Cooling system.
Limp mode -To eliminate limp mode, remove the temp sensor from the intake and plug the hole with a pipe plug. If you are still running EFI you'll have to leave the temp sensor hooked up and zip tie it to something close by so it only reads air temperature.
Bleeding air out of cooling system- Many people forget to bleed the cooling system after refilling the radiator. The radiator cap is not the highest point in the cooling system on these motors so there will be air pockets in the system causing the pump to vapor lock and you will over heat. There are typically 2 bleeders on these cars, one on the black tube sticking out of the top of the waterpump, and one on the thermostat housing. crack both bleeders when the car is running and close them after you have a steady stream of water/coolant shooting out.
#6. CV Axles
#7....