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Post by derby488 on Dec 12, 2015 12:35:40 GMT -5
Deciding on what I should buy for my second derby car. Can someone give me some input on which car I should go for, I have two I'm trying to decide between, 01 Vic or 91 town car? And the 01 Vic isn't a p71
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Post by fulltrackzach55 on Jan 9, 2016 19:00:11 GMT -5
are Ford Focus wagons (2001) any good to run in a stock fwd class ? This will be my first build and wanted to know if I should look for a better car.
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Post by STROMI 121 on Jan 9, 2016 19:26:15 GMT -5
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js913
Future Icon
Posts: 21
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Post by js913 on Feb 4, 2016 1:54:17 GMT -5
Rookie driver here. A lot of good advice on here. Thank you guys. I'm not the most car savvy guy but I know a good deal. Been watching derbies all my life helped some friends build cars (smash it mostly) decided to run pro stock class. (Top dog). Not gonna have a fancy paint job just want to build a safe, good running car that will give a chance to win.
Any more advice?
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Post by fordpowerforever on Feb 5, 2016 11:42:39 GMT -5
i dont know if its been said once or ten times on here since i haven't read threw in awhile but the big thing as a rookie after the car building essentials is to be comfortable in your car. Its a completely new wild and crazy environment that nothing compares to. Its a world of difference if your comfortable and it helps a lot as a rookie. Make sure you have a good seat mounted properly for you, good working brakes, working power steering, pedals in the right place for you and wiring and switches you understand. If all that stuff is in place you have much less to worry about and can concentrate on making hits and keeping your head on a swivel. This stuff becomes more and more important the bigger and more aggressive the derby is.
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Post by twistedframes26 on Feb 7, 2016 15:29:41 GMT -5
i dont know if its been said once or ten times on here since i haven't read threw in awhile but the big thing as a rookie after the car building essentials is to be comfortable in your car. Its a completely new wild and crazy environment that nothing compares to. Its a world of difference if your comfortable and it helps a lot as a rookie. Make sure you have a good seat mounted properly for you, good working brakes, working power steering, pedals in the right place for you and wiring and switches you understand. If all that stuff is in place you have much less to worry about and can concentrate on making hits and keeping your head on a swivel. This stuff becomes more and more important the bigger and more aggressive the derby is. . Well folks after first derby I decided to run a 2 peice truck driveshaft under my 80s Lincoln. Everything was going good till I made my 5th hit and my driveline came apart come to find out my u joint clips were not put it Soo I bought a tri oval slider and gonna go at it again this year. To the rest of the new guys out there reading helps but you gotta do it. Learn it. See it fix it yourself
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Post by fulltrackzach55 on Jun 1, 2016 17:59:06 GMT -5
Should I run a cooling fan on my ford focus wagon ? It will be ran in a bone stock class no welding, no changing bumpers, gas tank and battery don't even have to be moved (but I'm going to) I figured it would save me some room and sense it's bone stock those car crunch in pretty quick and only last about 10 minutes. I'm not running the car sense I'm to young but I'm building it for a family member. Any thoughts ?
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Post by klicky96 on Jun 2, 2016 13:55:09 GMT -5
Should I run a cooling fan on my ford focus wagon ? It will be ran in a bone stock class no welding, no changing bumpers, gas tank and battery don't even have to be moved (but I'm going to) I figured it would save me some room and sense it's bone stock those car crunch in pretty quick and only last about 10 minutes. I'm not running the car sense I'm to young but I'm building it for a family member. Any thoughts ? I wouldn't run that show period. Seems to me like safety isn't the number one priority. But, it should already have one so just run it.
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noser23x
Feature Winner
R.W.C.
Posts: 1,970
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Post by noser23x on Jun 2, 2016 17:21:26 GMT -5
Should I run a cooling fan on my ford focus wagon ? It will be ran in a bone stock class no welding, no changing bumpers, gas tank and battery don't even have to be moved (but I'm going to) I figured it would save me some room and sense it's bone stock those car crunch in pretty quick and only last about 10 minutes. I'm not running the car sense I'm to young but I'm building it for a family member. Any thoughts ? I wouldn't run that show period. Seems to me like safety isn't the number one priority. But, it should already have one so just run it. Agreed. Safety should be at the forefront of every show. Relocation of battery, relocation and ability to use an after market fuel cell, and a 4 point cage with a Halo should be optional with no issues (mandatory in my opinion). Nothing in that car is worth more then the person in the seat, you should be able to make that area and any other area that may put you in harms way safe.
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Post by cowdoc on Jun 3, 2016 12:28:13 GMT -5
Take a few minutes to do some upper body/neck stretches before and after the derby and a couple Advil-I'm 51 and still dont get too sore unless I get hit in the right rear that I dont see coming. Also, have a pocket knife so you can cut your seatbelt if you do get rolled-really hard to unhook hanging upside down.
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Post by yeastrancher on Jul 7, 2016 12:20:48 GMT -5
Hello, I'm building my first derby car, a 1986 Chevy Caprice with a 305 V8, and wondering about what grade of expanded steel is best to use where the windshield used to be. Our local rules state only that it must be sturdy enough to support a person's weight, but that still leaves me wondering what material to use. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance,
Darron
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Post by Jeffrey7x on Jul 18, 2016 21:16:28 GMT -5
Hello, I'm building my first derby car, a 1986 Chevy Caprice with a 305 V8, and wondering about what grade of expanded steel is best to use where the windshield used to be. Our local rules state only that it must be sturdy enough to support a person's weight, but that still leaves me wondering what material to use. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance, Darron Any expanded metal should work, as long as it keeps the hood from coming in, for our 79 impala we took 2 3 inch wide 3/8 plates and ran them from top of where glass used to be and to the bottom, and then used 2 8 inch wide pieces of expanded metal HORIZONTALLY across them, leaving about a 4 inch gap between them. If I get around to it, I'll read up on how to post pics and I'll show ya. Good Luck and p.s. I'm building an 86 Caprice myself right now as well. Kaiden
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Post by STROMI 121 on Jul 18, 2016 22:17:28 GMT -5
Hello, I'm building my first derby car, a 1986 Chevy Caprice with a 305 V8, and wondering about what grade of expanded steel is best to use where the windshield used to be. Our local rules state only that it must be sturdy enough to support a person's weight, but that still leaves me wondering what material to use. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance, Darron Your rules are poorly written and confusing...
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Post by fulltrackzach55 on Aug 4, 2016 11:09:11 GMT -5
Some advice I'm learning the hard way is make sure you know what you're getting into, by knowing you're gonna get hooked, make sure you HAVE ENOUGH MONEY (which I don't lol) hard to complete a car without the parts you need. Make sure you know all the safety aspects of the derby and all the rules last thing you want to do is go out to have fun and end up in the hospital later that night, yes that stuff happens, but it's better to know how to prevent that from happening the best you can.
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Post by Kev.T. on Sept 13, 2016 21:54:05 GMT -5
I would just say to take the time to do everything you have read on here and do it right. If it's not on the trailer the night before then your not ready and shouldn't be going! I've done it 5 times now, loading the car at the time I wanted to be through inspection. If I would have just waited a week or 2 for the next derby I would have had everything done and not skipped anything.
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