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Post by blackmopar21 on Jul 29, 2015 6:27:48 GMT -5
It's hidden. Lol
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Post by justforfun1973 on Aug 21, 2015 1:39:33 GMT -5
I took an electric fan from a bubble Ford. When I wired it in the positive side gets really hot and I can't figure out why. I'm using 14g wire no breaker. Any suggestions?
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Post by turdcorn on Sept 4, 2015 14:51:02 GMT -5
I have a 455 with hei. The same wiring for sbc?
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Post by STROMI 121 on Sept 7, 2015 7:44:20 GMT -5
Yup
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Post by sparks11x on Nov 30, 2015 20:37:30 GMT -5
Picked up a olds cutlass with a 3.8 looking for wiring diagram to get rid of the ecm and all other things. Has carb and hei dizzy
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Post by beefybuilt104 on Jan 13, 2016 8:30:20 GMT -5
Have a question and don't know if it is a dumb one. I have a sbc out of a 79 impala I have been running for a few years now. This year I am having a spark issue. I have always had a power wire on a switch from hei positive terminal to battery. My question is on the tach side or negative side of the coil does that need to be grounded? I don't remember grounding it before and never had an issue but am running out of ideas on why I have no spark. I ohmed out the coil last night and it tested bad so I replaced it and came out with the same result. The pickup coil on bottom of distributor was replaced 2 years ago, any chance of that maybe being bad again? Thanks guys
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Post by klicky96 on Jan 13, 2016 9:30:19 GMT -5
Have a question and don't know if it is a dumb one. I have a sbc out of a 79 impala I have been running for a few years now. This year I am having a spark issue. I have always had a power wire on a switch from hei positive terminal to battery. My question is on the tach side or negative side of the coil does that need to be grounded? I don't remember grounding it before and never had an issue but am running out of ideas on why I have no spark. I ohmed out the coil last night and it tested bad so I replaced it and came out with the same result. The pickup coil on bottom of distributor was replaced 2 years ago, any chance of that maybe being bad again? Thanks guys The pickup coil could be bad, but I have seen these things come "ungrounded" if you shall say. Just pop the coil cover, run a ground with an eyelet to one of the coil mounting screws and ground it to the engine and body.
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Post by beefybuilt104 on Jan 21, 2016 12:21:11 GMT -5
Ok so I replaced the pickup coil and the module so literally everything is new. I hit the toggle for starter and it fired up for a brief moment and died. ( fuel pump wasn't primed) and then I had an issue with the starter anyway. So I turned the power to the ignition off and went in. Two days later I replaced starter and went to hit the toggle expecting it to fire up. Now it is having same issue. I got out my voltmeter and started checking everything over. Found an odd thing. With my toggle for ignition mounted in my switch plate which is mounted on my front bar of my cage, it doesn't matter if the toggle is in open or closed position it has continuity through the switch. And that is the second switch I have tried to be sure. But it doesn't seem to when the toggle isn't in the switch panel. I am lost. Now I am pretty sure since it had continuity through switch when I thought it was off I think it burned up coil or module or pickup coil. Am I crazy or does this make sense to anyone else? I have always mounted switch panel virtually the same. Usually on sheet metal where dash is attached but now on dash bar.
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Post by klicky96 on Jan 21, 2016 14:05:33 GMT -5
Ok so I replaced the pickup coil and the module so literally everything is new. I hit the toggle for starter and it fired up for a brief moment and died. ( fuel pump wasn't primed) and then I had an issue with the starter anyway. So I turned the power to the ignition off and went in. Two days later I replaced starter and went to hit the toggle expecting it to fire up. Now it is having same issue. I got out my voltmeter and started checking everything over. Found an odd thing. With my toggle for ignition mounted in my switch plate which is mounted on my front bar of my cage, it doesn't matter if the toggle is in open or closed position it has continuity through the switch. And that is the second switch I have tried to be sure. But it doesn't seem to when the toggle isn't in the switch panel. I am lost. Now I am pretty sure since it had continuity through switch when I thought it was off I think it burned up coil or module or pickup coil. Am I crazy or does this make sense to anyone else? I have always mounted switch panel virtually the same. Usually on sheet metal where dash is attached but now on dash bar. Sounds like you've got a short to ground somewhere in your system. Run a direct positive from battery post to coil and see if it fires.
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wwj96
Future Icon
Posts: 46
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Post by wwj96 on May 7, 2016 23:25:45 GMT -5
Olds 307 motor with ESC do I need to do anything with the four pin plug coming off the distributor. I've read about Chevy looping the A and C wires to bypass the computer control's when eliminating the computers. Olds distributor harness different colors didn't know if it would be the same
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Post by 383 Sonoma on May 8, 2016 9:56:51 GMT -5
I hate those things. I always swapped to the older style with the vacuum canister
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67X
Feature Winner
Vision Without Execution Is Just Hallucination
Posts: 1,000
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Post by 67X on Jan 13, 2017 9:02:21 GMT -5
Hi guys,
I'm running a '71 Bel Air in a stock class and am retaining the original engine with the points distributer as it runs really well. I need to wire it up but embarrassingly enough, I can't figure it out. I had wiring harnesses made for my normal engines a long time ago and haven't had to mess with anything like this in over ten years at this point. I just plan on twisting and touching the wires without any switches. I didn't see any explicit instructions on here for wiring a points distributer.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Nate
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Post by Killerclown123 on Jan 13, 2017 17:10:32 GMT -5
Hi guys, I'm running a '71 Bel Air in a stock class and am retaining the original engine with the points distributer as it runs really well. I need to wire it up but embarrassingly enough, I can't figure it out. I had wiring harnesses made for my normal engines a long time ago and haven't had to mess with anything like this in over ten years at this point. I just plan on twisting and touching the wires without any switches. I didn't see any explicit instructions on here for wiring a points distributer. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Nate It's just as easy as a hei. Except the power wire needs have a resistor. 12 down to 6. The hot wire that's on there stock is internally resistor. If there's no corrosion I'd run it to the toggle. If that's not an option you'll have to use a resistor like the ones used on the mopar setup. Make sure you set the dwell with the machine. Don't nobody have an ear that good to set that.
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Post by STROMI 121 on Jan 13, 2017 18:59:36 GMT -5
Or find an old HEI to throw in it.
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Post by derbydude on Oct 9, 2017 20:30:11 GMT -5
Has anyone else ever ran into this issue before and know what caused this issue?
After replacing the module, coil, and ultimately the distributor due to no spark issue, we found that the voltage to the distributor was dropping to 0 while cranking. The switches were wired with a single power to the Ignition switch, and a jumper wire from the full time hot side of the Ignition switch over to the starter switch. This ran through 2 derby's this way and then suddenly seemed to not work any longer and the voltage to the coil was dropping out on cranking. What made it run after diagnosing the issue was bypassing the ignition switch. Will a bad switch cause this issue? I'm just curious if it would have the same issue if I would have ran a power wire direct from the battery for each switch versus using a jumper wire for power to both switches.
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