Post by crashincars76 on Jul 19, 2013 21:56:46 GMT -5
Yeah. It is a 95 Beretta. There was a huge yellow plastic case around it, the fuel pump twists out of it. Then like I said the wires connect to the pump with a clip instead of single wires on terminals.
Post by dewbiedewbiedo on Jul 19, 2013 23:01:01 GMT -5
Um gee Idk where to point ya maybe someone with a little more expertise than I can help.. Like C4 or 607ballzbe.. Also Jacked up I seen a few things he posted he might be able to help .. I don't understand the clip... Sorry Gl
I wouldn't run it through the cap. We have just cut the factory tank about 2" around the ring and Gas and Oil sealer "yellow tube of stuff featured in an earlier page" siliconed that piece of metal over a hole we cut in the boat tank. Then you have the filler neck still there to put fuel in. After you sealed it in run a few self tappers in around the ring. They shouldn't really do anything other than sqeeze the Sealer down tighter. Don't use regular silicone cuz it will break down and plug your screen. That clip should be fine. This also makes it easy if your fuel pump does go bad to just swap it out like you would a regular tank. Otherwise if you don't want to go threw all that work just go buy one.
Post by crashincars76 on Jul 20, 2013 1:40:42 GMT -5
Just so I know, what is the issue with running it through the cap? Definitely not disrespecting you or saying I won't think about your advice, but that was also advised to me. I was told to double clamp it good and seal it good as well.
Post by crashincars76 on Jul 20, 2013 13:07:00 GMT -5
OK, I'll try to explain it as good as I can. Take a boat tank. Instead of cutting it and putting the whole set up in the tank, I am taking the fill cap off. Drill a hole in the middle. Then run fuel line and wires through the hole. Hook them up to just the fuel pump. I literally took the whole set up apart down to the fuel pump and filter sock. Once that is hooked up, double clamped on the pump, and sealed like a sob, drop the pump in through the fill hole and let it sit almost on the bottom of the tank. Fill with gas and put the cap on. This is why I started the conversation lol. My wires going off the pump are not long enough to go through the cap, and instead of being a positive and negative terminal with just the wires connected to them, they are hooked up by a clip, like in a wiring harness. So, when I make the wires longer, where they are connected will most likely be submerged in gas. Does that make sense?
To a point I guess... Why not use an external pump instead of all that goofy chit... I built a boat tank with pump in it but nothing like that... One piece of advice you dont want the pump just swinging around in tank... It need to be stationary...
Post by LastMinuteMotorsports on Jul 20, 2013 14:12:56 GMT -5
When we were first getting into derbying, we built a cuple tanks like that. I know exactly what you're talking about. If you are going to do it that way, make SURE you solder and heat shrink the wires...nothing like something right behind you going boom.
As said earlier though, it's a lot less hassle to build everything properly and you know there will be no screw ups
Every derby I've ran stated in the rules NO PLASTIC TANKS!!! I wouldn't recommend a plastic tank to anyone. It's not that much more time to make a steel one the right way or just buy one already done from the M&M Boys that you can just swap out pumps as you go.