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Post by stellis124 on Jun 19, 2018 8:41:17 GMT -5
Has anyone took off the hatch on a 240 wagon does it help out at all or leave them on it i personally have not done it, but ive seen both done, didnt notice much of a difference from the stands perspective. pre bend the wagon portion and should go up, or you could "tuck" the hatch on the wagon. lol that worked really good. think about it logically and youll figure it out.
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Post by smashbob12 on Jun 19, 2018 20:51:54 GMT -5
Has anyone took off the hatch on a 240 wagon does it help out at all or leave them on it 4- wagons, all had the hatch left on. Happy with them.
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Post by zgrimes57x on Jun 21, 2018 11:25:09 GMT -5
Okay thank you guys that has made up my mind on that
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Post by X5Sleek on Aug 22, 2018 13:04:20 GMT -5
Anyone put a Ford 8.8 rear end in a Volvo? How much fabricating is needed?
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Post by smashbob12 on Aug 22, 2018 20:48:30 GMT -5
smashbob12 ? I'd guess the lowers are probably pretty close, but you'd need to do something with the upper trailing arms for sure. The only thing I'd ever done was re-enforce the panhard rod . Out of the 4 wagons and 1 sedan had no rear end issues and all had 3:73's in them.
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boom61
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,666
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Post by boom61 on Aug 22, 2018 21:30:51 GMT -5
I wish those Volvo rearends had gear options better than 3:73/4:11. I think it was 6 heats I ran with my Volvo without a single bent or broken axle. I remember comparing them to a 31 spline 9in axle and wasn't too big of a difference.
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pbush
Future Icon
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Post by pbush on Sept 16, 2018 22:19:04 GMT -5
After months of working on my 98 s70 fwd I found the control arm to be weak, is there any swaps to solve this problem? Possibly stamped steel instead of cast?
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Post by zgrimes57x on Sept 27, 2018 13:53:32 GMT -5
Anyone put a 2.5 iron duke 5 speed in a 240 wagon
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boom61
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,666
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Post by boom61 on Sept 28, 2018 0:17:02 GMT -5
no, but I've put a 2.3 in one. As long as its rear sump you should be good.
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improse
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,203
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Post by improse on Sept 28, 2018 0:41:39 GMT -5
Anyone put a 2.5 iron duke 5 speed in a 240 wagon Sedagon that wagon.lol
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Post by smashbob12 on Sept 28, 2018 4:58:06 GMT -5
Anyone put a 2.5 iron duke 5 speed in a 240 wagon I had 1 wagon with a Chevette 1.6 eng & auto trans that had 5 runs on it. 2nd, 3rd-3x's and a 4th. car junk. Swapped into another wagon, Then picked up a 2.5 and ran it 6 times in 2 cars before selling it . Easy swap.
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Post by juicyjdawg on Sept 30, 2018 22:25:33 GMT -5
Building an 87 Volvo 244DL, dropping a 2.5 iron duke outta A 81 cj jeep. was wondering if it was worth doing any head work/can for more power and also wondering which drivetrain preferred. the duke came with a T5 trans but I also have a th350. pros n cons to either trans'...? and also read dif... worth using stock Volvo or should i swap over to a gm? gonna leaf the rearend as well
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Post by smashbob12 on Oct 3, 2018 5:06:31 GMT -5
Building an 87 Volvo 244DL, dropping a 2.5 iron duke outta A 81 cj jeep. was wondering if it was worth doing any head work/can for more power and also wondering which drivetrain preferred. the duke came with a T5 trans but I also have a th350. pros n cons to either trans'...? and also read dif... worth using stock Volvo or should i swap over to a gm? gonna leaf the rearend as well 2.5 Good choice, trans is your call but i'd go 350th. the stock diff's hold up well. I'd nevr broken one out of 5 cars and 15 or so runs from them.
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skunk
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Post by skunk on Oct 3, 2018 10:26:38 GMT -5
Building an 87 Volvo 244DL, dropping a 2.5 iron duke outta A 81 cj jeep. was wondering if it was worth doing any head work/can for more power and also wondering which drivetrain preferred. the duke came with a T5 trans but I also have a th350. pros n cons to either trans'...? and also read dif... worth using stock Volvo or should i swap over to a gm? gonna leaf the rearend as well Save your money on the head/cam unless you really want to. Good reliability and tune up stuff will go along way and i doubt you will notice a night/day difference after spending that money. Now on the other hand, lets talk final gear ratio. Not sure your options but with the T5 in first gear, you will most likely have plenty of gear without touching the rearend. We do it in our stangs all the time and they wind up nicely stock. Auto, cant say for sure. The auto you wont have to deal with the clutch stuff but i prefer 5spd's. An auto in a our stangs without some gear is a total turd. 5spd is a night and day difference. The duke has plenty of power, you just dont want to bog it down. Rear tire size, trans choice and gear all play into that. If you do the T5, dont scimp on the clutch. You can get a quality ceramic disc assembly from a reputable clutch shop for not much more than the A-zone crap. All based on my experience only, with our stuff, over the last 30 years and just my opinion. Enjoy. On a different note, back in my teen years there was a guy down the road who had a really cool yellow 76 Camaro. Talked to him one day and asked what was under the hood. He said a 4cyl. Whatever...After he popped the hood, there it was. A freakin 4cyl in his daily driver. Thought that so odd but later in life it made sense how he did it.
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Post by juicyjdawg on Oct 13, 2018 23:48:05 GMT -5
Well thankyou for the info, upon further teardown and inspection. she did need a bee cam n lifterers. the head is getting milled and a valve job plus a dif torquey er cam. I am doing a th350 trans with a mild build and stall converter as well. only $300 here by me. minus trans od course. waiting on my head and cam at the moment for the assembly and install Building an 87 Volvo 244DL, dropping a 2.5 iron duke outta A 81 cj jeep. was wondering if it was worth doing any head work/can for more power and also wondering which drivetrain preferred. the duke came with a T5 trans but I also have a th350. pros n cons to either trans'...? and also read dif... worth using stock Volvo or should i swap over to a gm? gonna leaf the rearend as well Save your money on the head/cam unless you really want to. Good reliability and tune up stuff will go along way and i doubt you will notice a night/day difference after spending that money. Now on the other hand, lets talk final gear ratio. Not sure your options but with the T5 in first gear, you will most likely have plenty of gear without touching the rearend. We do it in our stangs all the time and they wind up nicely stock. Auto, cant say for sure. The auto you wont have to deal with the clutch stuff but i prefer 5spd's. An auto in a our stangs without some gear is a total turd. 5spd is a night and day difference. The duke has plenty of power, you just dont want to bog it down. Rear tire size, trans choice and gear all play into that. If you do the T5, dont scimp on the clutch. You can get a quality ceramic disc assembly from a reputable clutch shop for not much more than the A-zone crap. All based on my experience only, with our stuff, over the last 30 years and just my opinion. Enjoy. On a different note, back in my teen years there was a guy down the road who had a really cool yellow 76 Camaro. Talked to him one day and asked what was under the hood. He said a 4cyl. Whatever...After he popped the hood, there it was. A freakin 4cyl in his daily driver. Thought that so odd but later in life it made sense how he did it.
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