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Post by C4 on Nov 13, 2018 12:32:49 GMT -5
Yea I wish they would go back to the old rules where you could do alot more to them and thank alot and I will be building a stack of leaves and put the down legs in front of them but what are GTP if you don't mind me asking Gtp = gas tank protector
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Post by zgrimes57x on Nov 13, 2018 14:12:21 GMT -5
Oh okay I got you guys now and I am going to
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Post by derbyman55 on Jan 1, 2019 21:42:31 GMT -5
Hey ya'll I know it's a bit late but heres a pic of my mustang 2 I ran back in August in a chain n bang class. Has a 2.8 out of a pinto in it, absolutely folded the 80s ford bumper I put on it haha still somewhat straight, just got to pull the passenger frame down and put new bumper on, and the bumper was seam welded haha
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Jan 2, 2019 0:16:36 GMT -5
It is just the way it looks in pics or did you not weld the bumper shock to the farthest bottom part of bumper to get all the bumper height you can so frame don't go down? Also would of collapsed the shocks so bumper was much closer to the core support/frame for less leverage on the frame especially in chain an go style.
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boom61
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Post by boom61 on Jan 2, 2019 0:16:50 GMT -5
It baffles me that 80's bumpers can't even hold up on compacts. Makes ya wonder why in the world they go for what they do these days.
If you are allowed, next run move the bumper shocks back til the mounting plate is flush with the end of the frame.
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Post by C4 on Jan 2, 2019 0:30:49 GMT -5
Vic bumper has been holding up fine on my AMC for awhile now, but we are allowed a plate on the back of the bumper to weld to the bracket, and to slide the bracket all the way back, or use spec for a homemade bracket. It is showing signs of fatigue at about the same rate as the car. We tried them on a W and on a Taurus and the results were not near as good.
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Post by zgrimes57x on Feb 19, 2019 9:21:27 GMT -5
Does any one have any pictures of how they did there down legs to go on top of the leaf spring I been thinking about making my own holder and welding the down leg straight to it and to the cage and gusset them
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Post by cowboyup97 on Apr 2, 2020 1:04:36 GMT -5
I'm building a 79 pinto with the trunk to smash it rules it's only my second derby car does anyone have any tips and advice thanks in advance
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boom61
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Post by boom61 on Apr 2, 2020 16:33:58 GMT -5
Do you have an engine cradle?
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rt21
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Post by rt21 on May 27, 2021 1:31:30 GMT -5
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rt21
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Post by rt21 on May 29, 2021 16:46:21 GMT -5
Is it still a good idea to move it out of the engine compartment? I hadn't actually though of moving it till I saw that pic.
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Post by C4 on May 29, 2021 17:10:56 GMT -5
If you build or buy pedal setups, you can move them universally from one car to the next, no matter the make/model. And they won't get crushed when the car bends.
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rt21
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Post by rt21 on May 29, 2021 21:12:00 GMT -5
I think I'll do that. The original gas petal rusted off.
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rt21
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Post by rt21 on May 30, 2021 17:14:37 GMT -5
Ok thanks for the advice. Our rules say to run a spreader bar above the steering column from window post to window post and that if I cut a hole in the firewall for the distributor, the spreader needs to be 5" away from the firewall. The rules don't say anything about building cages or else I would build one.
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Post by C4 on May 30, 2021 18:42:58 GMT -5
Ok thanks for the advice. Our rules say to run a spreader bar above the steering column from window post to window post and that if I cut a hole in the firewall for the distributor, the spreader needs to be 5" away from the firewall. The rules don't say anything about building cages or else I would build one. What they call "spreader bars" in the rules you shared, collectively add up to your cage. I don't like the way it's written, but it's what you have to work with. Your dash bar (front spreader) should be as far forward and as low as you can get away with...right at bumper height is ideal. Same with the seat bar and door bars. I'd advocate for changes to improve the cage rules, but that's me. The new guy doesn't really get much say there A properly done cage here will be solidly connected from the back of the a-arms (without a cradle) or the firewall with a cradle, back to the trunk pan directly above the rear axle, with the GTP connected to the back edge of the seat pan, with the halo connected to the roof, seat bar and the floor directly above the spring perches or trail arm links, and 4 down bars from the door bars to the floor. And we're allowed to weld every body and frame seam, including homemade seams from the ball joints forward, get just about enough "repair" plate and bumper mounting plate to get from the front bumper to the back of the a-arms. Throw in a loaded or homemade bumper, mixed with pretty liberal all thread placement rules, a little extra beef on steering & suspension and an 8 lug rear, and it makes a car pretty stiff from the nose to the rear axle. And on a leaf car we can build a decent pack and chain the humps, which is pretty stiff end to end. With a good drivetrain, a Ford can hang with the 108" front wheelers.....but that's here. Which reminds me, when reading your rules, I did not see anything that defines or clarifies what makes a compact...compact (wheelbase, # of cylinders, type of car, etc.)
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