Ive got a 1990 Sunbird 4dr with the 2.0L TBI, absoluetly rust free! only 80,000 original km's. Would love some tips and some advice, never built one of these before. Here are some of the rules we run:
"All rubber stock body mounts and stock size bolts must stay in place. Increasing bolt size is not allowed. Max flat washer size – 3”. Four (4) additional body mounts up to ¾” inch threaded rod are allowed, placed strategically where desired or replace existing body mounts. Two threaded rods are allowed for the rad cradle that is not included in the additional 4.Two additional stock sized bolts may be added inside driver’s compartment for safety. Threaded not must not extend to bottom of frames."
"Trunk/tailgate maybe welded solid. If trunk is welded closed a 15” square hole must be cut in center of trunk for officials’ inspection. Trunks/tailgates can be wired, strapped or chained in 4 places to rear bumper. Maximum of 2 spots with threaded rod maximum of ¾ inch holding the trunk shut. Max washer size 4X4 for threaded rod. NO welding trunk/tailgate to bumper what so ever."
"Hoods are not mandatory. Without hood – use electric fan only – fans directly connected to motor must be removed. A 12” opening must be cut in the center of the hood. Hoods must remain open for officials’ inspection. Hood must be fastened down in maximum of 8 places including threaded rod or with seat belt strapping, wire, chain only, or bolted to fender. Hood latch should be removed. No welding hoods closed. Hoods/rad support can be wired to bumper in 4 places. Maximum of 2 spots with threaded rod maximum of ¾ inch holding the hood shut. These spots will account for 2 of the 8 spots. No limit on 3/8 bolts in hood panel only."
"Suspension must remain stock, movement must occur. Broken or sagging parts may be replaced. It is recommended that rear coil be wired to differential. No spring blocks or added helpers. Gears may be welded. Steering columns, drive shafts and rear sway arms may be altered but not reinforced. Ball joints, control arms and steering linkage must remain stock. NO REINFORCING ALLOWED. Trailing No coil spring cars converted to leafs springs. Parts may be interchanged with stock style car parts-TIE RODS maybe reinforced with angle iron square tubing or be welded."
Post by nanzpower36 on Sept 8, 2011 11:13:47 GMT -5
from what I have heard (and read) taking the thermostat all the way out isn't a good idea, so i have never done it, i usually gut the thermostat ( the spring and valve), or replace it with a washer. The reason being so it will still slow the flow down enough for the water to get cool in your radiator.
if your still having trunk problems: notch the frame from the inside of the trunk threw the floor boards, and do that by make 4 cuts with a zipcut or grinder over each rail, to that run parrell with the rails and to that are runnin opisit those 2 first cuts. and take a hammer and nock that in to the frame rail then weld or seal your trunk and notch it with a sledge hammer over roughly wear your cuts where, make the trunk notch runnin parrell with the back bumper. that caused my trunk to go perfict, if you wana see how it will come out email me firstname.lastname@example.org if your not sure what im talkin about ill show you a picture of what i mean but it always works MINT
A) MOVE THE COMPUTER BOX FROM THE RIGHT FRONT FRAME RAIL in front of the tire. I usually put mine right on top of the dash so people know I know about that little trick lol
B) Bumpers from the older cars with shocks still work (they still use the flimsy tack-welded bumpers and all the brackets are the same with a box style)
C) Ground out the engine to the shock tower. I used an old battery cable with flat terminals on the end. I did this because when the car gets hot, the cars tended to turn over slower but when I grounded the engine it started fine.
D) Since the rad is so close to the front of the car, bend the hood over (theres enough to do so) and I put a nice thick piece of foam in between the A/C condensor and the rad. Helped a bit.
E) They used a 'U' shaped axle starting in '95 and the back wheels tend to bend out. Run a bar across the two wheels and weld it so this problem won't happen (it's a whoore to aim for your target when your trunk doesn't wanna line up!)
I think this is what I'll end up doing, I only have a weekend to build the car in and then the Saturday before the derby to put the finishing touches on it. I will be reloacting the computer, and removing the core of the thermostat. I will be moving the hood forward and bending it down, and then using two 3/4" threaded rod to help hold the front together. I'll be floating the rad, and using the foam trick to help protect it and float it. I'll be welding the trunk shut, and I'm thinking about tucking the trunk too. Would really like the trunk to fold and pack in rather than go sky high, or be draggin on the ground. I'm planning on running Spare tires on the rear, and then the most aggressive tire I can find on the front with a protector flap on the out side. We can only run street tires up here in ontario, so snow tires is about the best I can get.
Post by scottiem50 on Sept 9, 2011 18:33:30 GMT -5
the bubble cavis are totally worth building just gotta stiffin the fronts if u look underneath u can get pretty creative on the subs and they almost always only move side to side bout 8 in behind the bumper and it really doesnt hurt the radiator or anything else ill have before and after pics in a lil while got a 97 im running for the third time on the 24