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Post by kkahler on Aug 21, 2014 11:57:51 GMT -5
Do you have pics of how you chained them. I plan on sleeving my tie rods next time see it that helps
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Post by C4 on Sept 1, 2014 19:54:52 GMT -5
Exactly where and how would you guys utilize this rule on a chain class car? 87 Celebrity sedan.
h. The lower part of the strut up to 6” may be welded, but no added material is to be
used for support other than welding wire or rod.
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Post by derby2racer on Oct 16, 2014 23:04:57 GMT -5
Didn't see it, may have missed it. I found a late 80s or early 90s celebrity wagon. Would it be OK to sedagon and slightly pre bend and/or notch?
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Post by taterjuice on Oct 17, 2014 7:14:46 GMT -5
That exactly how I'd build it.
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Post by bagschevy on Nov 8, 2014 19:56:12 GMT -5
Do you need to have the gauge cluster in these cars? I know some of the Fords need them left in for alternator to work.
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vona112
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,322
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Post by vona112 on Nov 8, 2014 20:08:13 GMT -5
Cluster is not needed. Ran my last 2 with no dash or cluster. Alternator worked
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Post by taterjuice on Nov 8, 2014 23:01:12 GMT -5
Ditto on that cluster not required
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Post by moparhardon on Dec 4, 2014 22:38:32 GMT -5
will a 4T65-E trans out of a Oldsmobile Intrigue work on my 89 Celebrity 2.5 motor? the 2.5 has a 4T60 on it now...
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Post by cwest71c on Dec 16, 2014 8:18:29 GMT -5
My rules are weld class. I have a clean 1988 chevy celebrity wagon with a 2.5. Has anybody ever leafed the rear of one?
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Post by taterjuice on Dec 16, 2014 16:09:56 GMT -5
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Post by taterjuice on Dec 20, 2014 2:29:20 GMT -5
My ghetto fab Abs/vaccum booster delete. So I started by removing that God awful mess of a master cylinder and then the booster. I removed the rod that goes from the brake pedal to the booster, then using a 4.5" grinder with a cutoff wheel cut of the back of the unit with the studs that goes thru the firewall.  Then simply marked the two holes I needed to attach the new abs free master to the new plate I just cut out. Used 3/8" carriage bolts, drilled a couple sizes under 3/8" then tapped the carriage bolts thru so the square shoulder holds the bolts in place. I did this for ease of removal and reinstallation, I've got 2 more a bodies to demo. And knowing gm I wouldn't be surpised if that pattern is the same for gm fwd cars.   Going to get compression fittings tomorrow since the lines on the car have that off breed dam metric size. Should be pretty quick and easy to transfer to the next car. That rod ended up being the perfect length so no modification required there. This master was off my last car so the rear lines are already plugged off. Brake lines are 3/16" . A little fyi for anyone who didn't know. Had to make a trip to the parts store to figure that out. Got extra ferrules so swapping this setup to next car will be a breeze. |
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Post by ghall79 on Dec 22, 2014 16:44:40 GMT -5
Anyone ever ran headers on a 2.8L? I'm worried the one closest to the firewall won't fit.
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Post by taterjuice on Dec 22, 2014 17:07:13 GMT -5
Anyone ever ran headers on a 2.8L? I'm worried the one closest to the firewall won't fit. would be like the 3.1 what often requires cowl trimming. Is it a 3 in a row or 3 into 1 ? Three in a rows are way slimmer. More than likely on an A body car, think it'll be too close up front. |
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Post by ghall79 on Dec 23, 2014 10:40:16 GMT -5
Anyone ever ran headers on a 2.8L? I'm worried the one closest to the firewall won't fit. would be like the 3.1 what often requires cowl trimming. Is it a 3 in a row or 3 into 1 ? Three in a rows are way slimmer. More than likely on an A body car, think it'll be too close up front. I have to get the 3 into 1 so the front will miss the dogbone mount. |
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Post by taterjuice on Dec 23, 2014 15:19:29 GMT -5
It'll be dam close to your rad support, which Is why I opted to make crossover stacks instead of using my decs. More than likely my 3x1 will find their way under the hood of my lumina.
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