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Post by cowdoc on Jan 27, 2016 22:09:12 GMT -5
Take a stock 440 crank, drop it in a 400 block ... bingo 451 stroker. Doesnt the block need grinding for clearance?
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Jan 27, 2016 22:27:10 GMT -5
yes and no, i suppose its not really just as simple as ploping a crank in... mostly just having the counterweights machined will cover clearances as well as the main bearing on the RB is a bit bigger and needs to be machined down to a b block size.
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Jan 28, 2016 3:59:20 GMT -5
yes and no, i suppose its not really just as simple as ploping a crank in... mostly just having the counterweights machined will cover clearances as well as the main bearing on the RB is a bit bigger and needs to be machined down to a b block size. That's another thing I love about the 440 source kit, the only machining required is having the cylinders bored, which I was already going to have done.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Feb 7, 2016 9:20:15 GMT -5
I what's the general consensus on running a stroker? I've got two 400's and one needs a major overhaul anyways. I've had my eye on 440 source's 500 stroker kit. That offers a fast, high revving big block. I know there are guys that run 383 strokers but outside that and a couple Ford 302 strokers, I haven't heard much. Either way, this 400 is getting machined, bored, a new crank,pistons,rods, bearings, mild can, blah blah. Not sure if the costs would be relatively the same, but the stroker kit is $2249 shipped. what is the application- is this a street, strip, track, or derby application?
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Feb 7, 2016 17:45:03 GMT -5
I what's the general consensus on running a stroker? I've got two 400's and one needs a major overhaul anyways. I've had my eye on 440 source's 500 stroker kit. That offers a fast, high revving big block. I know there are guys that run 383 strokers but outside that and a couple Ford 302 strokers, I haven't heard much. Either way, this 400 is getting machined, bored, a new crank,pistons,rods, bearings, mild can, blah blah. Not sure if the costs would be relatively the same, but the stroker kit is $2249 shipped. what is the application- is this a street, strip, track, or derby application? Derby.
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spark
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Post by spark on Feb 9, 2016 15:31:36 GMT -5
I may have missed the thread so I'm just gunna post on here. I have been running small block 318's. I'm getting my hands on a 78 doba that's supposed to have a 400 in it now I know all mopar engines are good but how would the 400 handle the abuse compared to the 318's?? I've been pretty trusting in my 318's with handling heat and starting back up in fact the same 318 for 3 years now (I've got 4 spares just in case the sad day come I finally hurt this one) but I would like input on how a 400 would compare
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Feb 13, 2016 9:16:49 GMT -5
I may have missed the thread so I'm just gunna post on here. I have been running small block 318's. I'm getting my hands on a 78 doba that's supposed to have a 400 in it now I know all mopar engines are good but how would the 400 handle the abuse compared to the 318's?? I've been pretty trusting in my 318's with handling heat and starting back up in fact the same 318 for 3 years now (I've got 4 spares just in case the sad day come I finally hurt this one) but I would like input on how a 400 would compare you won't be disappointed. The 400 loves heat and abuse too. Some disadvantages are- spark plugs stick straight out and are easier to snap off, oil dipstick tube is in a terrible place and will get squashed by the motor mount when it flexes, motor mount tabs seem to break easier, oil filter up front, it's bigger period so it takes up more space. A lot of that you can solve with an engine cradle. The distributor is in the front which is a plus in some ways and a minus in others. Makes considerably more power than a 318. I love me a 400.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Feb 13, 2016 9:32:58 GMT -5
what is the application- is this a street, strip, track, or derby application? Derby. I think you have to put some thought into what you want it to do. Are you running in classes with big HP competitions and feel you are at a power disadvantage? Do you have trouble keeping your derby engines cool? Forged pistons tend to grow a lot with thermal expansion so be generous with the block bore tolerances. The short skirts in that kit may actually be a good thing in this regard. I would choose the lowest CR version of the pistons and note they are calculating that with the measurements from the thick composite head gaskets, if you use the thin steel shim type it will be higher. Choose a cam to give you a good DCR and match it to the axle ratio & tire diameter. I'd clean up the heads a little to compliment the money spent on the bottom end but remember to keep the valve guides loose.
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spark
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Post by spark on Feb 15, 2016 9:16:22 GMT -5
I may have missed the thread so I'm just gunna post on here. I have been running small block 318's. I'm getting my hands on a 78 doba that's supposed to have a 400 in it now I know all mopar engines are good but how would the 400 handle the abuse compared to the 318's?? I've been pretty trusting in my 318's with handling heat and starting back up in fact the same 318 for 3 years now (I've got 4 spares just in case the sad day come I finally hurt this one) but I would like input on how a 400 would compare you won't be disappointed. The 400 loves heat and abuse too. Some disadvantages are- spark plugs stick straight out and are easier to snap off, oil dipstick tube is in a terrible place and will get squashed by the motor mount when it flexes, motor mount tabs seem to break easier, oil filter up front, it's bigger period so it takes up more space. A lot of that you can solve with an engine cradle. The distributor is in the front which is a plus in some ways and a minus in others. Makes considerably more power than a 318. I love me a 400. Awesome ok thank you! I was in the process of doing a budget build on my la 318 then came across the 400 so I wasn't sure the right direction I guess run both and see what happens lol again thank you for the reply!
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Post by scooter24 on May 10, 2016 6:56:29 GMT -5
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on May 11, 2016 7:20:51 GMT -5
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Post by bluredvision on Jul 13, 2016 22:30:04 GMT -5
Is it just Me or are mini starters a bit tight on big blocks? the power cable stud is almost too close to the side of the block and to get mine tight i had to go back and fourth between the bolts 4-5 times to finally get it to snug up flush with the flange.
anyone have trouble with the main + cable shorting out on the block?
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Post by fordpowerforever on Jul 14, 2016 10:21:29 GMT -5
They are really close when using a factory mini starter. SOme big blocks i have had to grind on the starter and the block just to get them to fit. I actually broke my first one trying to tighten it done. I took the extra piece of the power feed and then taped it all up good before i stuck the starter in.
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Post by cbdemo on Jul 20, 2016 23:28:19 GMT -5
I have a 400 and the points distributor i pulled off another car doesnt have vacuum advance. Will this hurt or not or does it need it. All my other distributors are for small blocks or for 440 so wont work. Dont really want to spend money on a new one and derby is a week away. Thanks
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Post by fordpowerforever on Jul 21, 2016 10:47:35 GMT -5
i dont use the vacuum advance.
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